[AdamTooCozy]

So i bought a salvaged title 2004 rsx off some scumbag on Facebook marketplace. The guy seemed super friendly and the car seemed legit from all aspects so I didn’t think twice about it when i bought the car. the only mistake on my end was trusting some stranger i had just met. I only drove the car around his apartment complex so i only got up to like 3rd gear and didn’t get to really test out the car but like i said I really trusted the guy. So i bought the car and 5 minutes after i left the check engine light turns on so I immediately pull over. I try calling the guy to ask him what the deal was and he didnt pick up. He ended up blocking my number and my facebook profile so obviously he deleted the code and screwed me over with the car that i paid $1,700 for btw. Anyways, I scanned the car and got the code P2646 and i researched to find out what it was. So I changed the entire vtec solenoid assembly (I used OEM Honda part) because that’s what people said was most likely the cause. I also changed the oil and made sure it wasn’t low. The light was now gone because i had disconnected the battery and i was able to push the car to 6-7k rpm a few times with no problem, but after about 5-10 minutes the light turned back on and i was immediately unable to go past 4k rpm with the engine bogging down and sputtering. I have no idea what to do at this point so please help if you know what the problem might be. Thanks

 

[EP3A2]

Welcome to the forums my friend. Sorry to hear you got scammed. Hard to tell what the issue can be without taking a look at the car. I would start with some inspections first: get a good visual on the oil by draining it, check for metal shavings. Also, behind the power steering pump, there is a plate with a couple of 10 mm bolts. There you will find the vtc screen, which also catches metal shavings. You mentioned changing the vtec solenoid, did it come complete with new screen and oil pressure switch? I would also recheck the filter on that bad boy if I were you. Then, there is the vtc solenoid at the top of the timing cover. Remove it, check for metal shavings. At this point, I would also remove the valve cover to inspect the valve train. All of this is to check for any metal that could be clogging the oil passages. If there are, clean everything up really well, use new oil/filter, then see if the code comes back. If it does, you may have a bigger problem inside your cylinder head, related to the vtec system.

Please let us know what happens and if you get it fixed.

 

[BrutalB83]

Did you meet him at his actual apartment or just in the complex?

 

[AdamTooCozy]

Did you meet him at his actual apartment or just in the complex?

It was in the parking area of the complex so i have no idea where he actually lives or if he even lived in those apartments

 

[AdamTooCozy]

Welcome to the forums my friend. Sorry to hear you got scammed. Hard to tell what the issue can be without taking a look at the car. I would start with some inspections first: get a good visual on the oil by draining it, check for metal shavings. Also, behind the power steering pump, there is a plate with a couple of 10 mm bolts. There you will find the vtc screen, which also catches metal shavings. You mentioned changing the vtec solenoid, did it come complete with new screen and oil pressure switch? I would also recheck the filter on that bad boy if I were you. Then, there is the vtc solenoid at the top of the timing cover. Remove it, check for metal shavings. At this point, I would also remove the valve cover to inspect the valve train. All of this is to check for any metal that could be clogging the oil passages. If there are, clean everything up really well, use new oil/filter, then see if the code comes back. If it does, you may have a bigger problem inside your cylinder head, related to the vtec system.

Please let us know what happens and if you get it fixed.

I changed the entire assembly so it includes the screen, gasket, switch etc. i also put in fresh oil and a new filter. The old oil was dirty but it didn’t seem abnormal. And the old screen on the assembly didn’t seem to have any shavings on it

 

[EP3A2]

Time

I changed the entire assembly so it includes the screen, gasket, switch etc. i also put in fresh oil and a new filter. The old oil was dirty but it didn’t seem abnormal. And the old screen on the assembly didn’t seem to have any shavings on it

Have you opened up the valve cover? Did you also check the vtc solenoid?

 

[AdamTooCozy]

Time


Have you opened up the valve cover? Did you also check the vtc solenoid?

The vtec solenoid looked good when i replaced it. I have not yet opened up the valve cover? What exactly should i be looking for?

 

[AdamTooCozy]

Time


Have you opened up the valve cover? Did you also check the vtc solenoid?

The engine bogging also didnt start again until the light had turned back on. So the car should be running fine and the vtec should work but for some reason as soon as that light turns on it stops working. Do you think using a scanner to actually delete the code would do anything?

 

[EP3A2]

The engine bogging also didnt start again until the light had turned back on. So the car should be running fine and the vtec should work but for some reason as soon as that light turns on it stops working. Do you think using a scanner to actually delete the code would do anything?

I honestly don't think deleting the code will do much, the problem may still be there and will immediately cause the light to come back on. It's definitely worth a try though. I remember you mentioning that you replaced the vtec solenoid, I was referring to the vtc solenoid on the side of the motor at the top of the timing cover. Those units also have filters but it would be good to check that it's also working.

 

[AdamTooCozy]

I honestly don't think deleting the code will do much, the problem may still be there and will immediately cause the light to come back on. It's definitely worth a try though. I remember you mentioning that you replaced the vtec solenoid, I was referring to the vtc solenoid on the side of the motor at the top of the timing cover. Those units also have filters but it would be good to check that it's also working.

I’ve never even heard of a vtc solenoid, could you explain where it is and what it looks like

 

[AdamTooCozy]

I honestly don't think deleting the code will do much, the problem may still be there and will immediately cause the light to come back on. It's definitely worth a try though. I remember you mentioning that you replaced the vtec solenoid, I was referring to the vtc solenoid on the side of the motor at the top of the timing cover. Those units also have filters but it would be good to check that it's also working.

Do you mean the oil control valve?

 

[mfarmakas17]

I had the same code recently as well, it ended up just being a bad connection to the oil pressure switch. Check your harness and maybe you’ll get lucky.

 

[AdamTooCozy]

I had the same code recently as well, it ended up just being a bad connection to the oil pressure switch. Check your harness and maybe you’ll get lucky.

Was it just a loose connection or Did you have to replace the connection?

 

[mfarmakas17]

Was it just a loose connection or Did you have to replace the connection?

I’m not 100% sure. I had just hosed the engine bay down, but the connector was dry. I can only assume that it wasn’t fully connected.

 

[WFORich]

On my high mileage 2006 Base I got the code P2646 recently which seems to automatically put the computer in "limp mode" which cuts the fuel injection at exactly 4000rpm. Shutting the car of or clearing the code with a scanner returns the engine to full rpm. What gives me that code is an aggressive downshift which "jerks" the engine faster and that sets the fault. So it seems like a mechanical phenomenon that changes the VTEC advance as the intake cam doesn't slow down as fast as the crank and the computer sees it as a fault that on my code reader reads "Rocker arm actuator control system performance or stuck off Bank 1". Perhaps this is an indicator that this 196K motor has a loose timing chain, bad seals in the vtec system/actuator or low engine oil pressure that allows this to happen. But as long as I do smooth, rpm matched downshifts I never get this fault.

 

[BoostedDC5$]

My 02 base came with the problem and a oil change new vtec solenoid gasket got rid of it. Turns out low oil pressure will cause it to bog down and not let u get past 4K rpm so check your levels

 

[Bechego]

Hey, everyone. I have the same issue. I am in the process of changing the VTEC solenoid, to see if that does it. I need the bolts, however, because the three (10x50, I think) were rusted away. Does anyone here have the bolt part number or where I can get those three bolts? AutoZone did not seem to have them. I read somewhere that someone had gone to ACE Hardware to get them, but I need them to be weatherproof. Thanks!

 

[mfarmakas17]

Hey, everyone. I have the same issue. I am in the process of changing the VTEC solenoid, to see if that does it. I need the bolts, however, because the three (10x50, I think) were rusted away. Does anyone here have the bolt part number or where I can get those three bolts? AutoZone did not seem to have them. I read somewhere that someone had gone to ACE Hardware to get them, but I need them to be weatherproof. Thanks!

This is the part number.
95701-06055-08

 

[marko16]

The solenoid in back, the actuator on the cam and the part on the side of the motor are the main parts. There is also a passage screen at the front of the motor. The cam actuator is the hard part as it's hard to diagnose and expensive or harder to replace. All of those have diagnosis charts found in the downloadable manual on page one of this forum. Asking here is great, but at the same time look there as it could save you money. Easy things first.