There’s no specific number that it “should be”. The base maps are dyno tested, if that is where the vtec engagement window is, leave it as is. Being that you’re a beginner, don’t mess with anything. It’s not as simple as just changing the engagement window, you’ll need to make changes to the fuel maps as well, and possibly to the ignition maps. If you’re interested in learning, there’s several old threads on here that will give you an idea on how to tune. Realistically, fuel is the only thing you should be changing if you’re street tuning.
2005 rsx type-s ktuner config help
Hey guys I have 05 rsx-s stock k20z1 with skunk2 header, skunk2 intake manifold with adapter, hks 3” exhaust, and injen short intake. Just bought the car and it came with a ktuner already installed. I’d like to double check the ktuner make sure everything is right, I might reflash it to map/stage 2. For the vtec engagement what should the numbers be? Looks like it engages at 4k at WOT, and 5600-5800~ at low pedal load. I’m a beginner with kseries so dont take the piss at me🤣
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Thank
Thank you for replying! Is there a way to know if the ktuner ecu is running one of the basemap that comes with the ktuner? Or is it better to just reflash it to stage/map 2 intake/header/exhaustThere’s no specific number that it “should be”. The base maps are dyno tested, if that is where the vtec engagement window is, leave it as is. Being that you’re a beginner, don’t mess with anything. It’s not as simple as just changing the engagement window, you’ll need to make changes to the fuel maps as well, and possibly to the ignition maps. If you’re interested in learning, there’s several old threads on here that will give you an idea on how to tune. Realistically, fuel is the only thing you should be changing if you’re street tuning.
Yeah there’s an option to download the currently installed tune in one of the drop down menus at the top. Then open Ktuner a second time with the reflash open. You’ll have to compare the values between the two maps. Reflash 3 is with bolt ons and the RBC manifold, that would be closer to your setup than just bolt ons. It’ll still requiring tuning though. Whatever you have installed already is likely a tuned map, so don’t lose that file.Thank
Thank you for replying! Is there a way to know if the ktuner ecu is running one of the basemap that comes with the ktuner? Or is it better to just reflash it to stage/map 2 intake/header/exhaust
Highly appreciate the reply sir! I’ll make sure to download the current map on the ktuner. Not sure if a 3,500rpm rev limiter is from factory but there is I just tested it out. Also by any chance do you know why there is a high pitch sound coming from the ecu whenever I do a pull, its right around 7k rpm. I’m new to k series but on WOT vtec seems to open up at 4k~4.5k rpm, and on low load i can hear vtec engage at 5600~5800rpm is that normal?Yeah there’s an option to download the currently installed tune in one of the drop down menus at the top. Then open Ktuner a second time with the reflash open. You’ll have to compare the values between the two maps. Reflash 3 is with bolt ons and the RBC manifold, that would be closer to your setup than just bolt ons. It’ll still requiring tuning though. Whatever you have installed already is likely a tuned map, so don’t lose that file.
Is it happening consistently? Our cars can go into limp mode when there's a sensor malfunctioning but are usually accompanied by a CEL. I can't remember if it's at 3.5k rpms or 4k.Highly appreciate the reply sir! I’ll make sure to download the current map on the ktuner. Not sure if a 3,500rpm rev limiter is from factory but there is I just tested it out. Also by any chance do you know why there is a high pitch sound coming from the ecu whenever I do a pull, its right around 7k rpm. I’m new to k series but on WOT vtec seems to open up at 4k~4.5k rpm, and on low load i can hear vtec engage at 5600~5800rpm is that normal?
It's possibly due to a bad connection between Ktuner and your ECU. I had this issue when I first Ktuner installed. It was an intermittent problem due to a cold solder joint. Had to send the ECU back out and have it re-soldered. If you pop the cover off of the ECU, you'll see the Ktuner hardware installed. There's 4 LED's that will indicate the hardware status. If there is an issue with the connection, you'll have a solid red LED. Reference the page below when you take a look at it. I can't really say what the sound is that you're hearing, but I don't think it's coming from the ECU. On a factory tune, Vtec engages at 5800. The reflashes have a window of 4000 - 5800 rpms, so I would call that normal.
Hardware Status LEDs (ktuner.com)
I might have to check out the ecu, sucks it not a clear cover so I can just take a peek. Thankyou sirIs it happening consistently? Our cars can go into limp mode when there's a sensor malfunctioning but are usually accompanied by a CEL. I can't remember if it's at 3.5k rpms or 4k.
It's possibly due to a bad connection between Ktuner and your ECU. I had this issue when I first Ktuner installed. It was an intermittent problem due to a cold solder joint. Had to send the ECU back out and have it re-soldered. If you pop the cover off of the ECU, you'll see the Ktuner hardware installed. There's 4 LED's that will indicate the hardware status. If there is an issue with the connection, you'll have a solid red LED. Reference the page below when you take a look at it. I can't really say what the sound is that you're hearing, but I don't think it's coming from the ECU. On a factory tune, Vtec engages at 5800. The reflashes have a window of 4000 - 5800 rpms, so I would call that normal.
Hardware Status LEDs (ktuner.com)
Hi so I have confirm there is a ktuner in the ecu, and no red lights or nothing. I’ve plugged it in my laptop and did reflash 3. Question about the reflash, this is going to be my daily driver and will be running it as is til I can get it tune properly. Is reflash 3 or reflash 2 better and safer for daily driving it? Also what values should I look out for to see if anything is out of the ordinary?Is it happening consistently? Our cars can go into limp mode when there's a sensor malfunctioning but are usually accompanied by a CEL. I can't remember if it's at 3.5k rpms or 4k.
It's possibly due to a bad connection between Ktuner and your ECU. I had this issue when I first Ktuner installed. It was an intermittent problem due to a cold solder joint. Had to send the ECU back out and have it re-soldered. If you pop the cover off of the ECU, you'll see the Ktuner hardware installed. There's 4 LED's that will indicate the hardware status. If there is an issue with the connection, you'll have a solid red LED. Reference the page below when you take a look at it. I can't really say what the sound is that you're hearing, but I don't think it's coming from the ECU. On a factory tune, Vtec engages at 5800. The reflashes have a window of 4000 - 5800 rpms, so I would call that normal.
Hardware Status LEDs (ktuner.com)
As I said before, reflash 3 is closer to what you have on the engine. Those basemaps are perfectly fine to daily. The only thing you need to worry about is the a/f ratio at WOT. 12.8-13 is ideal.Hi so I have confirm there is a ktuner in the ecu, and no red lights or nothing. I’ve plugged it in my laptop and did reflash 3. Question about the reflash, this is going to be my daily driver and will be running it as is til I can get it tune properly. Is reflash 3 or reflash 2 better and safer for daily driving it? Also what values should I look out for to see if anything is out of the ordinary?
Okay thanks, just making sure. I’m not sure if I can keep a look out of my afr since I don’t have wideband installed. I’m not doing WOT every stoplight so I think I’ll be fineAs I said before, reflash 3 is closer to what you have on the engine. Those basemaps are perfectly fine to daily. The only thing you need to worry about is the a/f ratio at WOT. 12.8-13 is ideal.
The factory sensor is a wideband. You’ll be fine broOkay thanks, just making sure. I’m not sure if I can keep a look out of my afr since I don’t have wideband installed. I’m not doing WOT every stoplight so I think I’ll be fine
I got my laptop plug in while my friend keep an eye out while I drive. At steady light throttle I get about 14-14.5, medium throttle is 13.5-14 sometimes dip in to 13s, WOT is 12.3-12.7 goes to 13 sometimes. I guess those numbers should be okay for the meantime
All perfectly normal. The O2 sensor will maintain your A/F ratio at all times except WOT.I got my laptop plug in while my friend keep an eye out while I drive. At steady light throttle I get about 14-14.5, medium throttle is 13.5-14 sometimes dip in to 13s, WOT is 12.3-12.7 goes to 13 sometimes. I guess those numbers should be okay for the meantime
As for knock count, what should I look out for? Any test I should do to see if my knock count is at normal numbers?All perfectly normal. The O2 sensor will maintain your A/F ratio at all times except WOT.
Are you recording while this is happening? As long as it’s not constantly going up, it’s fine. Majority of the time, it’s ghost knock. Any time mine has gone up, it’s after I’ve let off of the throttle. Our knock sensors are relatively sensitive.As for knock count, what should I look out for? Any test I should do to see if my knock count is at normal numbers?
I just recorded a 10mile drive went through all gears, no WOT though. Knock count was 25, knock count from cylinder 1-4 are 0, does that mean it was just phantom knocks? Engine is fully stock, no cams or nothing. I do have hasport solid motor mounts if that affects anythingAre you recording while this is happening? As long as it’s not constantly going up, it’s fine. Majority of the time, it’s ghost knock. Any time mine has gone up, it’s after I’ve let off of the throttle. Our knock sensors are relatively sensitive.
That is quite a bit... but I'm thinking it's the motor mounts. I've seen several people mention a high knock count with solid mounts on here before. I've also seen posts from others stating that it's not possible. Real knock is typically seen under high load, low rpm conditions. Best thing to do in this case is to reach out to a tuner.I just recorded a 10mile drive went through all gears, no WOT though. Knock count was 25, knock count from cylinder 1-4 are 0, does that mean it was just phantom knocks? Engine is fully stock, no cams or nothing. I do have hasport solid motor mounts if that affects anything
I’ll probably get a tuner, I’m in california so I can go with church since they’re known here. Thanks for all your input!That is quite a bit... but I'm thinking it's the motor mounts. I've seen several people mention a high knock count with solid mounts on here before. I've also seen posts from others stating that it's not possible. Real knock is typically seen under high load, low rpm conditions. Best thing to do in this case is to reach out to a tuner.
Sure thing dude. Let us know how it goes, you'll be in good hands with Church'sI’ll probably get a tuner, I’m in california so I can go with church since they’re known here. Thanks for all your input!
I’ll be sure to let you knowSure thing dude. Let us know how it goes, you'll be in good hands with Church's
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