Acura RSX, ILX and Honda EP3 Forum banner

A/C Diagnostic Test- Continuous Recirculating Button Blinking

13K views 9 replies 3 participants last post by  shoegazer 
#1 ·
Just as the title states I've ran the diagnostic test for the A/C and then the recirculating air button continuously blinks until I turn the car off. I've searched a bunch, but can't find what this means. Any help?
 
#3 ·
The following is the step by step diagnostic for the climate control to identify codes:

1. Turn ignition sw off.
2. Turn fan sw off, temp control to max cool, mode control to vent.
3. Turn ignition sw on.
4. Press and hold the recirc button, withing 10 sec press the rear defogger 5 times.
5. Release, and the recirc should blink 2 times and the A/C light comes on.
6. Diagnosis begins. (~15 sec)
7. After the A/C light goes out the recirc should blink the code 1-13 if anything is wrong.
8. If there are problems in the evap temp sensor, the A/C light will blink the code.

Codes: (blinks)

1. Open in in-car temp sensor.
2. Short in in-car temp sensor.
3. Open in outside air temp sensor.
4. Short in outside air temp sensor.
5. Open in sunlight sensor.
6. Short in sunlight sensor.
7. Open in air mix control motor.
8. Short in air mix control motor.
9. Problem in the air mix linkage, door or motor.
10. Open or short in the mode control motor circuit.
11. Problem in the mode control linkage, doors or motor.
12. Problem in the blower motor circuit.
13. Problem in the EEPROM in the climate control unit.
14. Open in the evap temp sensor circuit.
15. Short in the evap temp sensor circuit
 
#4 ·
Shoegazer,

Thanks for the codes I've review them before. There is another rsx owner who posted a youtube video having the same problem as me. Either there is nothing wrong with it or the code is not one listed. It just continuously blinks after completing the test.

Marko,

My problem is that my A/C only blows cold air while moving say faster than 20 mph with the rpms above 2k. I've read endless threads about people arguing you can't get cold air at idle, but that's bs because two years ago I could. One possible culprit is my cracked/leaky radiator which isn't holding coolant because I've noticed as I top the radiator off the A/C does seem to work much better.
 
#7 ·
Yes, both fans are working. The A/C compressor does engage and seems to be working properly. I just ordered a new radiator to replace mine which is cracked at the top and leaking. I'm hoping that once I don't have any coolants leaks that the A/C will run better, but I'm not sure if that's wishful thinking. If its only a mediocre improvement I'll have a shop test for low freon and/or replace the pressure valves as I've read its a cheap fix and potential cause for leaks.
 
#8 ·
Compressor kicking in indicates freon level is good enough to engage the clutch. If you don't have the gauges, a shop can hook it up to make sure your low and high side pressure is in spec as an expansion can go. If you have good ac function then the blinking light is puzzling. Fuses OK? If your AC system checks ok, the blinking might be "other" related, as even the codes listed above are not helpful for AC diagnostics.
Your leaky coolant would have no or little affect on AC as they are two totally seperate systems.
Should ask, is your A/C blowing cold? Still could need a recharge, but that may not shut off the blinking light.
I'd have an AC test first.
 
#9 ·
My A/C is functioning at like 75% I'd say. Basically it doesn't blow cold until moving at a decent rate of speed, but from there is will blow relatively cold, but never "ice cold". The A/C will never get cold if the car is just idling. As for the A/C diagnostic test I just ran it because I had never heard of it until a couple weeks ago and thought it may help clear the issue. I'll post an update after I get it checked out.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top