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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just finished installing my new CC clutch and 8lb flywheel and my pedal feels a little weird. It still has a lot of free play that it had before and the travel is also very short and not really springy.

Tomorrow i will bleed the clutch with new fluid and see if that changes anything but im almost sure i need to adjust my pedal because my previous clutch (bought the car with it) enganged all the way to the top but the disc was not very worn out, it still had some meat left on it.

The car has not been started yet since the new clutch was put in because im doing brakes while at it (will be done tomorrow) but by the feel of the clutch it feels like the disk is not even completely disengaging. Im just not really sure how to make the travel longer and remove that free play.

Thanks for taking the time to read and any suggestions are appreciated.
 

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140 lb-ft of fury
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Lay down on the driver's side floorboard and remove the bottom plastic panel. Have a 12mm open ended wrench ready and loosen the 12mm nut on the rod connected behind the clutch pedal. Spin that rod to thread OUT of the pedal arm to gain more pedal travel until you're satisfied with the friction point. I personally have it set about 1/2 of the way off the floor to start grabbing the friction point and have about 3/4 inch of free play at the top. You need that free play otherwise your throw out bearing will constantly be pressing on the pressure plate and cause premature wear.
Edit: Oh, and tighten that 12mm nut when you're done lol.
 

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yep
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Ok I'll check it out. So basically I want some play at the top? Right now I have like an inch and half or more play then barely any travel. The slave barely moves too.
 

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140 lb-ft of fury
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You always want a little play at the top, but you'll also want at least some travel below the friction point in order to fully disengage the clutch. Play with it and you'll get it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Ok, the car isnt drivable yet so ill adjust to feel for now and then when the car is back down ill play with it.
 

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I f**ked Spaz's sister
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drive it for about 200 miles before you do this though... When i installed my CC clutch it had a really wierd feeling for a couple weeks, but once the clutch was fully broken in it feels like stock
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
drive it for about 200 miles before you do this though... When i installed my CC clutch it had a really wierd feeling for a couple weeks, but once the clutch was fully broken in it feels like stock
Yeah i will definately have to adjust it again after its broken in, but im sure it needs to be adjusted to be able to drive because it doesnt feel like it disengages all the way.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Lay down on the driver's side floorboard and remove the bottom plastic panel. Have a 12mm open ended wrench ready and loosen the 12mm nut on the rod connected behind the clutch pedal. Spin that rod to thread OUT of the pedal arm to gain more pedal travel until you're satisfied with the friction point. I personally have it set about 1/2 of the way off the floor to start grabbing the friction point and have about 3/4 inch of free play at the top. You need that free play otherwise your throw out bearing will constantly be pressing on the pressure plate and cause premature wear.
Edit: Oh, and tighten that 12mm nut when you're done lol.
Thanks man, that did it. The pedal feels soo much better now and it travels all the way. I think i might need to fiddle with that again 600 miles down the road. I was surprised by how little adjustment there is and needs to be done and how much of a difference it makes!
 

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140 lb-ft of fury
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Thanks man, that did it. The pedal feels soo much better now and it travels all the way. I think i might need to fiddle with that again 600 miles down the road. I was surprised by how little adjustment there is and needs to be done and how much of a difference it makes!
:)
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
The only weird thing was that when we bled the clutch the pedal wouldn't come back up but if I pulled it up it would be fine again. The car drives like a dream so I don't think there are any problems so far (knock on wood) hahah
 

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The only weird thing was that when we bled the clutch the pedal wouldn't come back up but if I pulled it up it would be fine again. The car drives like a dream so I don't think there are any problems so far (knock on wood) hahah
It's supposed to be like that, no worries.
 

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You only need to check/ adjust the clutch on initial installment to get the proper engagement. No other adjustments will be necessary.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
You only need to check/ adjust the clutch on initial installment to get the proper engagement. No other adjustments will be necessary.
I read somewhere on the Box or papers that said adjust at install and after break in but I dont think I'll need to touch it.

And to whoever said wait 200 miles then adjust, is wrong. Un need to make sure the clutch is engaging and disengaging correctly. I couldn't get into any gears when I first installed it because the clutch wouldn't disengage even when the pedal was all the way to the floor.
 

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I read somewhere on the Box or papers that said adjust at install and after break in but I dont think I'll need to touch it.
Many times the "box or papers" have generic information on them and are not vehicle specific. The clutch is hydraulically adjusted. Once you are sure the proper engagement point is achieved no other adjustments are necessary.
 

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so would this work if u want to friction point to be closer to the middle? mines all the way at the top like i barley tap the clutch to shift its getting really irritating
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
so would this work if u want to friction point to be closer to the middle? mines all the way at the top like i barley tap the clutch to shift its getting really irritating
For your problem you need to do the reverse thing i did. Mine was engaging way too close to the floor (not disengaging at all) yours engages way high on the pedal. What you need to do is loosen that nut then thread the rod into the pedal.

EDIT: dont turn it a shitload because a small increment makes a big difference in the engagement point, also make sure that you are not bringing it so low that the clutch will always be engaged and that will either cause gear grind when you shift or you wont be able to get into gear from a stop at all.
 

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Lay down on the driver's side floorboard and remove the bottom plastic panel. Have a 12mm open ended wrench ready and loosen the 12mm nut on the rod connected behind the clutch pedal. Spin that rod to thread OUT of the pedal arm to gain more pedal travel until you're satisfied with the friction point. I personally have it set about 1/2 of the way off the floor to start grabbing the friction point and have about 3/4 inch of free play at the top. You need that free play otherwise your throw out bearing will constantly be pressing on the pressure plate and cause premature wear.
Edit: Oh, and tighten that 12mm nut when you're done lol.
dude you are awesome.. i did this and i can finally catch second gear at any rpms i want haha...(probably not a good thing) but when im idling in neutral with the clutch out there is a very slight kind of vibrating noise that will go away once the clutch engages and comes back when i let the clutch out.. it is definitely coming from the tranny to.. is this bad?
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
dude you are awesome.. i did this and i can finally catch second gear at any rpms i want haha...(probably not a good thing) but when im idling in neutral with the clutch out there is a very slight kind of vibrating noise that will go away once the clutch engages and comes back when i let the clutch out.. it is definitely coming from the tranny to.. is this bad?
Thats probably your throw out bearing. you need to make sure that you have enough free play at the top of the pedal to make sure your TOB isnt always being pushed up against the pressure plate, causing it to wear down a lot faster.
 
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