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AC test no error code

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code error test
3K views 6 replies 2 participants last post by  MaryMCHolden 
#1 ·
Hi! Can anyone suggest how to fix this problem with my AC? I was driving with my AC on and noticed a smell (like burned hair) and the air from the AC was not blowing cold, it was hot. I put my windows down and heard a sort of rattling sound when I turned the AC on. I turned off the AC and the noise stopped. I did the error test but there was no blinking error code. I know how to change fuses from the inside panel (my accessory fuse blows often) but didn't see fuses for the AC. I'm reading through my owner's manual to find a solution but any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I have a 5 hour drive coming up and wondering if it is safe to drive or if the AC failing is part of a bigger problem. Thank you for taking the time to respond--MMCH :vtec:
 
#2 ·
Is the clutch on the compressor engaging when it's blowing hot air? If it isn't then the low-pressure switch is preventing it form engaging. The most likely cause is low freon. DO NOT just plug in a can a blast it full, even if it has a "pressure gauge. If you overcharge the system you can & will wreck the compressor. Instead you need to figure out why it leaked out. If you don't have the proper equipment, take it to a shop you trust. It can be as simple as a leaking o-ring, a $0.75 part, or a failed compressor, not a $0.75 part. There are other potential causes, but without the proper equipment and diagnostics, you'd just be pokin' and hopin'.
If the clutch is staying engaged, you may have a problem with the temperature blend door being stuck on heat.
BTW, you aren't going to get any codes or check engine light if it's AC related, so don't be alarmed that there isn't one.
 
#3 ·
Thank you!

Thank you for the info. A mechanic told me I need either a new clutch and/or compressor because mine is rusted and the belt is worn. I have no clue about auto repairs, other than replacing fuses, so I have to trust what he says. I have no tools and I'm not sure what 'engaging' means exactly. I, personally, think I should try the freon fix first, before replacing the whole system. Also, I don't drive the car much so it's parked a lot and I was told that can cause some issues. I tried running the car's self diagnostic test and took it to Auto Zone but, like you said, no errors found but it only tests the engine. Thank you again, I appreciate you taking the time to respond. Wish me luck!
 
#4 ·
Thank you! I'm still getting used to this site and I'm not sure if my reply posted back to you or just in general. You were right on with the information. I want to try replacing freon before the system. It just seems logical, despite what a mechanic told me needed to be done. Thanks, again!
 
#5 ·
Stop. Don't just pump freon in it.
Clutch engaging refers to the thing on the front of the A/C pulley. If it spins along with the belt it's engaging and a good thing. Here's a fast test that is virtually conclusive. Start the car, A/C off. Watch where the compressor is and have someone turn on the air. The thing on the front short start spinning. If you hear the noise, a death rattle sound, shut off the air.
The reason to watch the clutch engaging as noted above is to confirm there is enough freon to operate the system, albeit not at efficient levels. The system has a safeguard, a low pressure cut-off. If the freon pressure drops below a safe operational level the clutch will not engage.
The burnt hair smell is clutch material, so from everything you've described, I have to blindly call the compressor. Get a complete system with the following; compressor (includes clutch), orifice tube/expansion valve (only the correct will ship); dryer and o-rings. Change all you can find.
When you detach any lines, you expose the system to moisture. Oh yeah, and if you don't properly discharge the system beforehand, ideally into a proper recovery system, as every single member of this forum does because we love the planet, you can blow your face right the hell off. That'd suck.
After reassembly, the 100% correct method is to first vacuum the system to create negative atmosphere and check for leaks. The compressor oil is injected, followed by the appropriate amount of freon.
BTW, the pressure gauge on the "really good" cans at the parts store blow goats. Just sayin.
On a positive note, if the system is already totally discharged due to a leak, you can save money by changing the parts yourself and finding a shop that will vac & charge it. You can see if you have any pressure by finding the low pressure valve. The bigger diameter of the two. After unscrewing the cap, and with your thus far un-blown off face safely out of the way, press in the pin in the middle. If it squirts or hisses then you have pressure in the system. If it's a puny dribble you can just as well hold it in and get the rest out.
Sorry for the long reply. I've got so many damn words in my fingers tonight.
 
#7 ·
Wow! Thank you for the explaination. I'm so glad you had many words in your fingers. Your info sounds like what the mechanic explained to me. I think I'll leave the repairs to the professionals, as I do not want to blow my face off. You're the best, thank you for taking the time to respond. I really appreciate it.
 
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