[Madmax2121]

FIXED SEE BELOW

Alright fellow RSX enthusiasts, starting another AC thread! Before I'm crucified, I will say I have thoroughly searched through all AC related info on the site but still have a few questions.

So my issue: no AC at all from my new to me 02 type S. I thought it may be low on r134a so I recharged it at first. No dice. It was on the low side, but once it was filled nothing changed. After a few days it seems to be holding pressure well so I don't suspect any links.

So after thorough perusing of the threads, I first checked the AC code with the diagnostic test. No codes appeared after initialization. This brings me to my first question. There was someone who had a bad Climate Control unit. Is this a common thing or nah? It works fine in the cold, aka modulating heat as it should, and the AC/recirc/defrost lights come on just fine. However, there are times where I can't turn off recirc when the AC is switched on. Is this normal or is this any indication of control unit failure?

That aside, my next check was on the compressor. It *looks* like it's running when I peek down into the bay. I can't fully tell. It also does seem to be drawing load in that the rpm's and engine noise changed when the AC button is pressed. The passenger side AC fan looks to be running just fine as well (another common potential issue it seems).

All together it seems like all signs point towards a 16 year old compressor having bought the dust. I've already purchased a new compressor kit with the unit/oil/dryer/seals and whatnot plus new r124a refrigerant as well as having rented a vacuum to evacuate the system prior to recharging it with new refrigerant.

Anything else I could check prior to digging in?

In regards to the compressor swap, I noticed it's common to remove the radiator. Is this necessary? I ask because I replaced the rad less than 500 miles ago and am remiss to drain and refill with new coolant....AGAIN. PDF manual says to go in from the top; I may still do this and move the alternator since I *really* don't want to put new coolant in. Thoughts?

Also any other tips or tricks that may be helpful for swapping the compressor?

Let me know, thanks guys!

 

[marko16]

MN people don't need AC. LOL. The driver side fan needs to come on. Both should but not sure what a non working fan would indicate. I'd trouble shoot a bit more and check the condenser fan relay as that's the fan not coming on. Not sure, but does the pressure switch have a code in diagnostics.

 

[dustyboner]

when the engine is running, hood popped, turn on the a/c and listen to the compressor. do you hear the compressor clutch engage ? it will make a clicking noise.

if its engaging, you need to hook up some a/c gauges to the high and low pressure ports and see what the pressure is when the ac clutch is engaged and when it disengages.

FYI overcharging the system will also cause it to blow hot air.

 

[Madmax2121]

Ppppsssh I'm a wuss when it comes to warmth, felt like I was dying in traffic when it hit 80-something two days ago.

Anyway, I'll double check the relays but from what I understand the drivers side fan will come on eventually when the engine gets hot enough on warm days. I don't think that's the problem though since even at highway speed there isn't a hint of cold air.

As to the compressor clutch, I have a feeling that it's not engaging. It *sounds* like load is being put on the system but there are no definitive "clicks" when the button is pressed.

Starting to lean more and more towards just replacing the compressor hah, someone on reddit did note that I can remove the passenger wheel and peel back the splashguard and access the compressor that way...which I think is now my current plan unless anyone else can think of any more options to try? I did try replacing the compressor relay, again per a /r/acura_rsx suggestion, but that did nothing as well.

 

[dustyboner]

an A/C system is a closed system meaning that the only way it could be low on refrigerant is if there is a leak some where. If you added more to the system and you don't have a leak, it is overcharged.
thinking about it, you compressor clutch must be engaging if you added refrigerant because it only sucks it in when the compressor is working (when clutch engages).

if you don't already have it, get the FSM from the link in my sig, HVAC section starts on page 1591.

you need to track down the exact cause of you problem so you don't replace all that stuff and it still doesn't work because you have a bad temperature sensor or dual pressure switch or anything like that

 

[02RSXS]

When you say the a/c compressor *looks* like it's running, can you elaborate? Are you seeing the clutch engage and disengage? If you're unsure, you should see it move in and out after hearing the A/C relay click.

 

[Madmax2121]

So, it isn't overcharged, I made sure to keep it halfway in the 'green' area of the charge kit I purchased to avoid overcharging; when I've checked I've simply reattached the hose to monitor the pressure.

Anyway, when I say I *think* the compressor is running, I'm now **thinking** (hah) that it isn't. For some reason I assumed if I saw it turned that meant it was working. Dumb me. I don't hear any definitive CLICKs either when pressing the button, just a slight increase in load which may be from the compressor fan turning on. Anyway, I have time set aside to dig into the problem, specifically I'll pull off the passenger tire to get a better view as to whether the clutch is ACTUALLY engaging.

That all being said, if I go down the road to replace everything, is it worth it to dig under the battery and replace the dryer as well? The kit I purchased (here - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01006RYUM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) has a dryer I could put in. Should I put er in or nah?

 

[marko16]

Seems cheap enough

 

[Benji '02 Blue RSX]

...
As to the compressor clutch, I have a feeling that it's not engaging. It *sounds* like load is being put on the system but there are no definitive "clicks" when the button is pressed.

Starting to lean more and more towards just replacing the compressor hah, someone on reddit did note that I can remove the passenger wheel and peel back the splashguard and access the compressor that way...which I think is now my current plan unless anyone else can think of any more options to try? I did try replacing the compressor relay, again per a /r/acura_rsx suggestion, but that did nothing as well.

In 2016 I found out that my A/C compressor clutch was going, (I think there was a squeak or some other sound(edit) chirping sound), late 2016, my '02 base RSX w/225K miles on it, I had the compressor changed.

Be sure to also change the canister (receiver/dryer) if you change the compressor, and the proper type and amount of oil in with the refrigerant. I didn't do this job myself I gave it to a mechanic.

 

[dustyboner]

So, it isn't overcharged, I made sure to keep it halfway in the 'green' area of the charge kit I purchased to avoid overcharging; when I've checked I've simply reattached the hose to monitor the pressure.

Anyway, when I say I *think* the compressor is running, I'm now **thinking** (hah) that it isn't. For some reason I assumed if I saw it turned that meant it was working. Dumb me. I don't hear any definitive CLICKs either when pressing the button, just a slight increase in load which may be from the compressor fan turning on. Anyway, I have time set aside to dig into the problem, specifically I'll pull off the passenger tire to get a better view as to whether the clutch is ACTUALLY engaging.

That all being said, if I go down the road to replace everything, is it worth it to dig under the battery and replace the dryer as well? The kit I purchased (here - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01006RYUM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) has a dryer I could put in. Should I put er in or nah?

without a set of gauges (with a high pressure and low pressure gauge), you have no way of knowing if its overcharged. the low side can show normal pressure and the high side will have excessive pressure.

like i said the its a closed system so if you are low on refrigerant, you have a leak (most likely a bad O ring) . You need to find the leak if there is one before you do anything else.

here is something that might help
http://www.ariazone.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/11/Automotive-Air-Conditioning-Training-Manual.pdf

 

[Madmax2121]

That site is fantastic! I love fully understanding whatever I'm doing and it's PERFECT for that. Anyway, I have not checked the high side. Would it be a waste of time to evacuate the currrent system, pull a vacuum to make sure it's sealed, then recharge it before swapping things out? I have enough refrigerant and a recovery system.....but the thing is, even with swapping out the AC relays, the compressor hasn't once clicked on. I did more testing today and it's not spinning whatsoever, although that may be a symptom of an out of whack high side?

 

[02RSXS]

As I found out, just testing the high/low side pressures doesn't give you a good reading on the refrigerant level. To ensure you have the correct volume of refrigerant in your system, you need to drain it into a completely empty refrigerant storage container. Once the system is drained then you must add a properly measured amount of refrigerant. Having the system over charged can prevent the compressor from engaging, but I would think the most likely culprits are a problem in the signal being sent to the compressor or a problem with the compressor itself.

 

[Madmax2121]

That's what I thought. Going to throw out one final hail mary with the relays tonight then will go ahead with full replacement!

 

[Madmax2121]

Actually, another question, after looking up a large number of threads, I realize it could theoretically be my multiplex control unit aka the under dash fuse box??? I've had a couple of the issues that could signal it being bad, as in my remote entry resets itself, and the main dome light has burnt out a couple times. I'll keep scouring the threads but would it be worth picking up an ebay unit to replace mine to test???

 

[Madmax2121]

Oh and actually another intermittent issue has been the windshield washer spray not working in the front...

 

[Benji '02 Blue RSX]

Actually, another question, after looking up a large number of threads, I realize it could theoretically be my multiplex control unit aka the under dash fuse box??? I've had a couple of the issues that could signal it being bad, as in my remote entry resets itself, and the main dome light has burnt out a couple times. I'll keep scouring the threads but would it be worth picking up an ebay unit to replace mine to test???

Oh and actually another intermittent issue has been the windshield washer spray not working in the front...

...anything else?... ...is your check engine light on?...

 

[Benji '02 Blue RSX]

The Climate Control Unit also has a self-diagnostic, assuming you've got the repair manual, see pg 21-8(edit)/1598. (don't have the repair manual? see thread: http://forums.clubrsx.com/showthread.php?t=1233649)

 

[Madmax2121]

*********FIXED*******

As above my rsx was having issues with ac, namely it wasnt working at all. Given its a popular thing to go bad I wanted to give an update that could help people in the future (as there are way too many threads where a question is asked and a response is nowhere to be found).

Anyway, my ac, the compressor wasnt kicking in at all. Tried different fixes including the relay and recharging the system. Turns out the compressor had completely shit the bed. With a fuckton of difficulty and a stripped compressor bracket bolt later I pulled the fucker out. The new compressor spun freely, the old one I couldn't turn and when i drained the PAG oil out it was shimmery and literal chunks of metal fell out as well.

New compressor back in, buttoned it all up then pulled a vacuum for 30 minutes. Tossed in r134 on the low side until it read full, turned er on, and boom, clutch engaged and I have AC! Topped it off with r134 after running for a while and I'm all set.

For those doing it who do not want to drain the coolant- through a combination of coming from the wheel well, as well as from underneath AND from the top I got it without draining. Had to remove ac fan and one side of the metal hool latch brace, and then pull on the radiator to move it out enough to wedge the compressor upwards without pulling the alternator or the power steering pump, but I did it and saved all the coolant!

Oh another thing. You also have to unbolt the passenger engine mount and jack the engine up a bit to get around the subframe and at the lower compressor bolts - at the same time you may get away with not moving the engine up if you can manage to avoid stripping a bolt. Had to run to lowes and get a bolt extractor kit after rounding off one of the two lower 12mm compressor bolts, FML.

Anyway, also replaced the condensor and dryer as well as all rubber gaskets. Gambled and didnt replace the expansion valve but looks like it was fine.

Hopefully this helps people in the future. Pm me or reply here if you have any questions.

 

[Benji '02 Blue RSX]

...when i drained the PAG oil out it was shimmery and literal chunks of metal fell out as well...

:whoa: ok, so, the chirping sound my AC unit was making, while it was still working, must have been metal chunks in there, so, the chirping is a warning sign...eventually these metal chunks accumulate and seize it up! (So, if you hear the chirping sounds, and your belt's good, might need to replace your AC before it quits.) ...a mechanic told me the sound was the AC compressor going, (since I couldn't figure it out or find it here).

Nice that you were able to DIY this :hb:, but, from your description, I'm still glad I paid someone else. I've done the starter, radiator, other things, but, when you have to jack up or support the engine, I just don't have the space or tools right now.

 

[Madmax2121]

: I'm still glad I paid someone else. I've done the starter, radiator, other things, but, when you have to jack up or support the engine, I just don't have the space or tools right now.

Can totally understand. It was quite the PITA, but at the same time, you really don't need too many specialized tools - heck for moving the engine up it was simply a block of wood and my $30 amazon hydraulic jack! The vacuum and all that was a free autozone rental, and as always with hondas you just need a few metric sockets to get things off.

Main reason I say all this is because I don't want anyone to shy away from giving it a shot. Shops rightfully charge a fair chunk of change for this but with adequate guides and forum posts like mine and others, hopefully RSX owners here can save money for go fast bits instead.