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Hi guys,

Did something really stupid and not sure if it will ruin my engine.

I was doing an oil change and accidentally grabbed the wrong bottle of fluid.

I grabbed the 1 litre Honda ATF and poured maybe around 50 to 100 ml into the engine oil area. There was no oil inside as it was drained.

I quickly reopened the drain bolt and drained out what I could - maybe 30 to 50 ml came out.

So there are still maybe 50 ml inside the engine. I read online that some people add way more into their cars, the ATF, to clean the engine - some add an entire liter so I only added like 1/10 of that.

I added in the engine oil after draining out as much ATF as I could and ran my car.

It seems "Fine" so should I be worried or just think of the 50 ml or so of ATF as a cleaner? I am just worried the ATF might eat away any seals etc.

I did use the Castrol High Mileage Synthetic blend prior so I am hoping that sealed some of the seals up tighter.

This time, it's the Mobil 1 Full Synthetic.

Anybody have experiences in this area?

Really stupid mistake on my part, wasn't paying attention at all.

If someone thinks this is not good and I should do another oil change immediately, please let me know.

This sucks :( :rest
 

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your fine, i"ve run a full qt in my motor, up to two at a time. I was running a Saturn to death and was using any oil i could find. I was even using oil change oil. Lasted to 414,000 miles. Atf oil is pretty tough stuff.
 

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True oil is oil
 

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Discussion Starter #4
your fine, i"ve run a full qt in my motor, up to two at a time. I was running a Saturn to death and was using any oil i could find. I was even using oil change oil. Lasted to 414,000 miles. Atf oil is pretty tough stuff.
Thanks Marko!!!

I will rest on your advice and run it like a champ until my next oil change. I change my oil every 4000 to 5000 KM - about once a year.

If you don't mind me asking, is tranny fluid like brake fluid, bad for storage? I just opened a whole bottle of Honda ATF fluid and it's...practically full.

I think I might have poured only 75 ml or less into the engine...
 

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Its fine.
An older mechanic once told he he "fixed" an oil burning issue by adding ATF to the engine. So I added half a bottle of ATF on purpose into the engine of my winter beater. It smoked less and it ran smoother.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Its fine.
An older mechanic once told he he "fixed" an oil burning issue by adding ATF to the engine. So I added half a bottle of ATF on purpose into the engine of my winter beater. It smoked less and it ran smoother.
Thanks Bath Tissue, you really put my mind at ease along with the others :*)...

A very minor question if you know the answer...

I understand the engine block is made of aluminium.

I was screwing in a sensor, the oil pressure sensor that sits right above the oil filter.

I heard a small click (Was not using a torque wrench, regular wrench) at the end when I was tightening the sensor as it simply felt hard to tighten - like needed continuous tightening. The click felt kind of like half between a click scrape sound and a click as in maybe the sensor went into the block by 0.01 mm. OF course this is all speculation as I can't actually see anything.

I just hope I did not crack the sensor or hairline fracture the engine block body but I did not get any CEL upon testing.

I do not think I stripped anything either. Applied thread sealant on the sensor.

It is hand tight now. Hand tight as in I used my hand to tighten it first than used a ratchet. Upon hearing the click, I quickly reversed a little and retightened just to see if I could reach about the same rotation amount to the same tightness and it felt the same. Didn't bother going any tighter although I felt I could.

I wasn't sure if I had damaged anything as many people have said these aluminium engine blocks are prone to cracks - especially do not over tighten the oil drain bolt plug or the pan is very easy to crack.

Again, as I was test driving and seemed nothing happening and everything felt normal.

This was also done along with the engine oil replacement today.

Does this sound bad? I've never heard what a cracked aluminium body sounds like though...
 

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brake fluid is the only fluid that goes "bad" sitting on the shelf (if opened). Oils will be fine, as long as the caps are closed.
 

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Thanks Bath Tissue, you really put my mind at ease along with the others :*)...

A very minor question if you know the answer...

I understand the engine block is made of aluminium.

I was screwing in a sensor, the oil pressure sensor that sits right above the oil filter.

I heard a small click (Was not using a torque wrench, regular wrench) at the end when I was tightening the sensor as it simply felt hard to tighten - like needed continuous tightening. The click felt kind of like half between a click scrape sound and a click as in maybe the sensor went into the block by 0.01 mm. OF course this is all speculation as I can't actually see anything.

I just hope I did not crack the sensor or hairline fracture the engine block body but I did not get any CEL upon testing.

I do not think I stripped anything either. Applied thread sealant on the sensor.

It is hand tight now. Hand tight as in I used my hand to tighten it first than used a ratchet. Upon hearing the click, I quickly reversed a little and retightened just to see if I could reach about the same rotation amount to the same tightness and it felt the same. Didn't bother going any tighter although I felt I could.

I wasn't sure if I had damaged anything as many people have said these aluminium engine blocks are prone to cracks - especially do not over tighten the oil drain bolt plug or the pan is very easy to crack.

Again, as I was test driving and seemed nothing happening and everything felt normal.

This was also done along with the engine oil replacement today.

Does this sound bad? I've never heard what a cracked aluminium body sounds like though...
That sensor is a tapered fitting. It only takes 13lbft of torque. Barely above hand tight with tools.
It won't cause CELs. It is a dummy switch for the oil pressure light on the dash.
If it is not leaking, and the oil light works, then I won't worry about it.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
That sensor is a tapered fitting. It only takes 13lbft of torque. Barely above hand tight with tools.
It won't cause CELs. It is a dummy switch for the oil pressure light on the dash.
If it is not leaking, and the oil light works, then I won't worry about it.
Hi Bath, thanks for getting back to me.

What does tapered fitting mean in this case? Sounds positive lol...

And yes, so far everything is good. No leaks or anything.
 
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