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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I looked around for a diy before I started and couldn't find one for our chassis, so I thought I'd try it. Sorry if it sucks, and sorry if you attempt and fuck your car up. Attempt at your own risk, I hold no responsibility for your wrong doings.

Here is a pic of all the stuff I started with in the morning, ARP studs, ES bushings, lug nuts, wheels and tires.


Start by doing the obvious. Put car on jack stands and remove wheels.


Stock studs in rear.

Start by removing caliper, 2 17 mm bolts I believe. And from here there are 2 routes, either pound out studs with hub still attached to vehicle, or remove hub first then pound them out(easier since you have to remove hub anyway) I did it both ways cause I was just learning.


To remove hub pry off silver dust cap in center with a chisel and hammer to expose the 32mm nut.

Once removed should look like above pic.

To install new studs simply pound them in with a sledge and punch. On rear a punch must be used due to the shape of the rotor, a hammer will not fit in between abs gear and brake rotor.


And the new studs installed.

Comparison

Re-assemble and rear should be good to go. I applied a bit of grease on spindle before putting the hub back on.


First things first on the front, remove caliper and ziptie it up out of the way.


Front is much more of a bitch than rear, I was also installing LCA bushing so I removed LCA's in the same process. Optional. Start off by removing Axle nut and lower ball joint, impact and 36mm socket should solve the nut.

Lower ball joint can be done with pickle fork or a ball joint seperator.

Now I forgot to take pix on this next part, but after axle nut and ball joint, slide axle out the back of the hub and set aside out of your way. Next you will need to remove abs sensor from hub (1 10mm bolt), and the 2 bolts holding hub to the strut(19mm and impact). The entire hub should be free now. And for the tricky part, seperating the hub. Took me a while to figure this out. There may be a better way, but this is how I did it and it worked fine. The arm at the top of the hub with 2 bolt holes in it can be rested on bench(or log in my case). And you hold the ball joint on the other end so that the studs are facing down. What we are doing here is trying to remove the inner most ring by pounding it out from the back, the ring with the actual axle splines in it.(SMALLEST RING) Next get the 32mm socket you used to remove wheel hub in rear and set it in the hub. Should set perfect as a punch on the inner most ring. Now have at it! I used a 3lb sledge and it wasn't all that easy. Dont worry it will come out.

Now just hit out the old studs and install new ones. Punch isn't needed here since you have ample room to strike stud directly. I took this oppurtunity to re-grease my wheel bearings, optional. Then when putting the hub back togethor you can use the socket as punch again, this where you need to be delicate. Tap it on to where it's almost all the way on and spins freely, you can put it on too much and it will not spin freely. When you put hub back on and tighten down the axle nut it will seat itself and be where it needs to be. Install everything back in reverse order. Now if you are unsure you got the studs pounded in completely you can get an open ended lug nut and put it on the stud and crank down on it to seat completely.

Now as for the LCA bushings. These things were a royal PITA. First one was horrible and second one went quick cause I had a method figured out. You must remove the entire LCA to do this so you will need to remove lower ball joint and the 2 19mm bolts holding the control arm to the subframe. Here are pix of the bolt locations.

Here are the stock bushings removed.

Both are in metal sleeves that are pressed in that will need to be removed also.

Now I forgot to take some pix here to but you will need to torch out the bushing in the left of the photo. Get it hot enough so that you can hit out the center metal thing. Once that is done I got a dremel tool with a side cut drill bit on it and from where the bushing was cut a notch in the metal sleeve down the length of it. After doing so you can hit in between sleeve and control arm with a chisel. If you hit next to the notch you just cut it will start to fold it in and fall out. Once out you can install new bushing which is pretty self explanitory. Not for the bigger rounder bushing. No torch needed, as the bushing has OEM notches in it so you can just jump right to the dremel and cut your notch. And hammer it out, this bushing is much easier. I had to grease bushing up and install it with a vice. Only way I could get it in there. Reinstall in reverse order. Sorry I know I forgot some pictures but if you have any questions feel free to ask. I'm sorry if it is hard to understand just let me know and I'll try to fix it.
 

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I was lazy and shaved a small section of the hub in the front to remove the studs without pulling the hub apart. Nice DIY
 

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Discussion Starter #9
So is it possible for the rear hub to separate with the wheel still attached? In regards to our conversation in my other post.
If you can remove the center cap and that silver dust cover with the wheel on. Bit I imagine it would be pretty hard. I had to pry on it with a chisel. I just don't see it happening with the wheel on. Also you would have to remove caliper. Its worth a shot.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I was lazy and shaved a small section of the hub in the front to remove the studs without pulling the hub apart. Nice DIY
I stand corrected. :) wish I would've done this.
 

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is that pretty much how you replace the wheel bearing?
 
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