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Your local Jew.
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Discussion Starter #1
Or at least from what I hear. Recently it rained pretty hard and I own a CAI. Well I must of slightly submerged it(don't know how because I only hold a slight drop) either way I had WOT in 1st and in suddenly bogged down.... so I was like 'uh...ok' then I tried it again and yet another slight bog. So then it started to idle sort of funny . With al this in mind I cruised to the nearest gas station conservatively.

At the station it started to run fine again, startled, I continue to drive to a friends house to get out of the rain. Well later on I start it, it starts fine like usual and no odd idle. So I continue to go on the highway and do a slight 2nd gear pull to make sure it runs through fine and well .....No VTEC.

I turn the car off and then after a few hours time I run through it again... No VTEC. Yeah so I stumbled by the situation.

Cliff Notes:
1. Bogg and odd idling at 1st. due to Im guessing inhalation of water
2. Now starts fine and idles fine. NO CEL's
3. Still no VTEC.

So likely in the morning I will look at the CAI and make sure there are no pockets of water in the filter and what not. After I will run through 2nd to see if it engages... if not Well seems I will be pulling the valve cove off for a quick looky.

So can anyone help me with tips and what not?

Thanks.
 

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Your local Jew.
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1,131 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
have you check your oil?
I will be doing that now. But I heard no knocking or clank of valvetrain running dry while driving home last night.
 

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Breast inspector by appt.
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9,233 Posts
If the ECU received a mess of bad readings from the water, it may have gone into a semi-safe mode. Try an ECU reset before pulling things apart.
 

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Your local Jew.
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1,131 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
If the ECU received a mess of bad readings from the water, it may have gone into a semi-safe mode. Try an ECU reset before pulling things apart.
THAT... has also crossed my mind as well. Only for the fact that I had re-started it so many times last night and yet still it throws no CEL's.
 

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Registered
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16,470 Posts
I say change oil
check filter
reset ecu

go from there

Hydrolock means, seized engine, obv u didnt seize ur engine otherwise it wouldnt start/run
 

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Crunch time
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3,387 Posts
^^ that.

I hydrolocked one time cuz there was no street light...scary stuff. steams and hisses everywhere :run: lol My car was bogging alittle afterwards, but I changed oil, oil filter, reset, and no v-tec for about a day or two and it was running fine.
 

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Your local Jew.
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1,131 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
UPDATE:

So I checked the engine oil level and it was just a little below the suggested oil level marks. SO I put one more qt. of oil in and reset the ECU and it runs and engages VTEC fine. *knocks on wood/glass*

Thanks for the suggestions guys.
 

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Your local Jew.
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Discussion Starter #11
i would change the oil...

might be water in the oil

water + friction + 8000 RPM = bad news
True. I will be doing that soon. Though I just don't think I had consumed a large amount of water. I still have my wheel liner on and what not so I am thinking of jus buying one of those shields.
 

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Registered
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13,538 Posts
you didn't suck any up.

you would have known if you did.

and that shield is nothing but a marketing scheme don't buy into it.
 

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Your local Jew.
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1,131 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
you didn't suck any up.

you would have known if you did.

and that shield is nothing but a marketing scheme don't buy into it.
Then what would be the cause of the hardcore bogging and odd idling?
 

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Semi Kind of Retired
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222,529 Posts
you sure you didnt just try to engage vtec when the engine was cold?
He said he was on the highway when he noticed it. The car definately would have been warmed up by then
 

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ArmenianCRSX Crew Founder
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3,818 Posts
yeah dude, these cars are known to burn oil...especially if your using mob 1 syn....my service manager @ acura dealer advised me to us 10w-30 and not 5w-30 only bcuz its more dense and better lasting for our high reving motors. same thing happen to me man, driving around and not going more than 4000 rpm (my vtec kicks in at 4800, reflashed ecu) and i tried to floor it, car was going up to 8k but it wasnt moving or making any indications of vtec kicking in...tunrs out theres not 1 drop of oil in there....keep a look out on your oil man, shit can disappear pretty quick in the k20s
 

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851 Posts
yeah dude, these cars are known to burn oil...especially if your using mob 1 syn....my service manager @ acura dealer advised me to us 10w-30 and not 5w-30 only bcuz its more dense and better lasting for our high reving motors. same thing happen to me man, driving around and not going more than 4000 rpm (my vtec kicks in at 4800, reflashed ecu) and i tried to floor it, car was going up to 8k but it wasnt moving or making any indications of vtec kicking in...tunrs out theres not 1 drop of oil in there....keep a look out on your oil man, shit can disappear pretty quick in the k20s
5w30 is no thicker than 10w30 when warm. Mobil 1 is the problem as it is unusually thin. I run Castrol Synthetic 10w30 and do not burn a drop.
 

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577 Posts
As the legend states.....

Originally Posted by K20A2
Don't worry about a by-pass valve, it doesn't work on the k-series motor like it does on the b-series. AEM is the only company that makes one and they don't recommend it's use on an RSX.

Originally Posted by K20A2
Actually, you have to get water into the motor which is pretty difficult on a k-series and a cold air with the filter on. Water locks up a motor it doesn't matter WOT or not, all it has to do is get into the motor. This is why I have seen people hydrolock with a V2 before, it actually has less of a distance to travel and it easier to get into the motor.
 
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