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Discussion Starter #1
OK,

Keep in mind: We have emmisions restrictions here and have to pass a sniffer test.

So first I thought I'd go with just a Comptech or DC shorty and keep the stock cat. But that seemed silly as it would be minimal gains. So I thought I'd go with the Random tech bolt-on. But it's friggin expensive so I thought I'd go Carsound and weld it in. But then I wasn't sure if this would give me the best gains, and if I'm going to spend that kind of $$$ I want the best setup I can get. So now I'm realizing that the Jackson racing header has the b-pipe seperate, and I could weld a Carsound on and forget about the b-pipe. That would keep me legal and should (I think) give me the best possible gains, even though I'd lose a bit with the hi-flow cat (I can live with that.)

Would I need to extend the O2 sensors with this setup?

Thought or ideas? Am I missing another possibility? And no, I don't have $2k to spend on the Mugen header. :) It looks great, but I can't justify the cost.

I'm also thinking of buying the SP2 down the road, if it makes a difference.

Basically I'm looking for somebody to tell me I've got the right idea or that I'm an idiot. :laughing:

Peace

WhiZ
 

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I AM ELECTRIC HEAD
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i have a carsound cat never used or installed

2.5 in and out 2 bung holes( for o2 sensor)

95 shipped US$
 

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N/A to go please...
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Discussion Starter #4
iNFMS said:
If I have a CEL with my Carsound, then wouldn't I not pass emissions? Making you not pass also.
I was under the impression that the Carsound would not throw a CEL? Or does it when used with the JRRH?

Peace

WhiZ
 

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I AM ELECTRIC HEAD
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i have heard that a cel is not thrown with the cat :dontknow: but like i said i dont know because i never installed it

are u intersted?
 

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N/A to go please...
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Discussion Starter #6
Uh, no... I'm just trying to determine if this is the best route to take for my next mods. I'll do the actual buying after that.

Peace

WhiZ
 

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I finally settled on the following plan of action (I too must pass smog):

1) Install DCRH (now on my dining room table).

2) Install a stainless steel "catback" exhaust (no great gains here, but I don't want to have to do it all over when the stock muffler rusts out). Probably the F PG.

3) Get an 8100 series cat from Random Technologies. These are only 4" in diameter so will fit in tight spaces. Cost about $170. Available with various inlet/outlet sizes.

4) Have a shop weld the cat and an O2 bung in the straight section of exhuast pipe after pipe zig and zags. Depending on clearance, they may have to make a replacement section so the cat isn't too close to the car. There is a heatshield there already. I talked to a shop last month about doing the work. Sounds like they had done a few Civics the same way.

5) The #1 O2 sensor goes in the first bung in the header. Plug the second bung.

6) The #2 O2 sensor goes after the cat. All this one does is check to make sure the cat is working. Extending these wires too far would be a problem since resistence is how the signal is measured. I'm thinking I'd use a larger multi-strand wire with lower resistence to help make up for the longer wire.

7) Technically, you cannot replace the cat on a OBDII car unless it has over 50k unless the thing got ate by an alligator or something. I'll save the shop the legal anguish by showing up cat free and let them redeem me by replacing it for me.

PS I plan on trying your Cal this weekend. Thanks for sharing.

PPS: A hi-flow cat does not really cost any HP and I don't think the shorty headers are worth it. And, yes, Mugen is insane $s.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thx 9/11. I like the DCRH, but wasn't sure how easy it would be to weld the Carsound in. Since the JRRH has the B-pipe seperate, you just swap that for the hi-flow cat.

You're welcome for the Cal. It seems to have done well for a few people. Hope it works for you. :) Watch your A/F when you put the race header on, as most people go a bit lean after installing one.

Peace

WhiZ
 

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One to keep in mind, if you go to track, the cat will be burnt out after 1 to 2 track day. After that it would become very restrictive. So I just punched my catsound now and the car run much more faster.
 

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So your saying a couple lapping days will melt a Cat? I did at least 20 on my Miata and my Cat is perfect and just passed smog. I thought you had to run rich which would create a heat level that would melt the material inside the Cat leaving a lump.
 

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You could just use a JDM 4 - 2 - 1 header. Matter of fact i have one for sale...
 

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Running w/ a shorty header and high flow cat is not really a bad idea. When I had this combo, I attained some good 1/4 mile numbers compared to other RSX's at my track. It was about 2-3 tenths of a difference. On the dyno the combo showed minimal gains around 5 whp from 5200-8600 rpm, but on the track the gains were more obvious. I ran leaner w/ a shorty + cat + exhaust than w/ a DCRH + stock exhaust...so the combo flows fine enough with minimal mods.

If you are really set on getting the DCRH, you can get a HF cat and a collector flange from a B-series DC JDM header. Then cut the flex pipe section of the DCRH and weld the collector and HF cat to the part where the all of the DC's secondary pipes meet.

I would do this but in California, running with a header w/o CARB numbers is already illegal and so is running with an aftermarket cat...either way you get in trouble :( .
 
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