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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just curious on what you guys think about an auto meter fuel ratio gauge. I found one locally for pretty cheap, it's not something i am planning to put on and keep just something that would tell me what my current a/f ratio is, afterwards i will take it off.

Ever since i put the dcrh on my 05 type s, the exhaust smells much more than my 02 did with the dcrh, so i'd like to make sure i'm not running rich.

My question is, how accurate are these?
 

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WOOOOOOWW
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ive never ran autometer,they shouldnt be too bad. i have a AEM and its on point. but just to buy it and pull it off is pointless and not worth the time. u can probly go get 3 dyno pulls for that much and find out mroe about ur car.

u probly are running a lil richer but what the big deal. its the price u pay for modding ur car
 

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YOSOLO Tuned.
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Just curious on what you guys think about an auto meter fuel ratio gauge. I found one locally for pretty cheap, it's not something i am planning to put on and keep just something that would tell me what my current a/f ratio is, afterwards i will take it off.

Ever since i put the dcrh on my 05 type s, the exhaust smells much more than my 02 did with the dcrh, so i'd like to make sure i'm not running rich.

My question is, how accurate are these?
your running leaner with the 05, not richer. You shouldnt need a guage to tell you that. I've used AutoMeter guages before and their a decent brand. However, only the Wideband 02 guages trasfer data in real time so when it comes to a/f ratio, wideband is the only type thats accurate.

ive never ran autometer,they shouldnt be too bad. i have a AEM and its on point. but just to buy it and pull it off is pointless and not worth the time. u can probly go get 3 dyno pulls for that much and find out mroe about ur car.
I agree.


Edit: Unless you also have CAI/RH/E, I wouldnt worry about your a/f ratio. Other wise, you need K-pro and a good tune to be safe.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
ive never ran autometer,they shouldnt be too bad. i have a AEM and its on point. but just to buy it and pull it off is pointless and not worth the time. u can probly go get 3 dyno pulls for that much and find out mroe about ur car.

u probly are running a lil richer but what the big deal. its the price u pay for modding ur car
The a/f ratio gauge i found is bnib and $25, 3 dyno pulls at a local speed factory shop here are $150.
your running leaner with the 05, not richer. You shouldnt need a guage to tell you that. I've used AutoMeter guages before and their a decent brand. However, only the Wideband 02 guages trasfer data in real time so when it comes to a/f ratio, wideband is the only type thats accurate.



I agree.


Edit: Unless you also have CAI/RH/E, I wouldnt worry about your a/f ratio. Other wise, you need K-pro and a good tune to be safe.
I've researched and i realize people run leaner with the RH after they get a reflash, which i don't have. So i shouldn't be running much leaner than stock.

Which doesn't really bother me because the car exhaust smells like it's running too rich, not lean.
So if it's the narrowband then there isn't any point to getting the air fuel gauge?
 

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YOSOLO Tuned.
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The a/f ratio gauge i found is bnib and $25, 3 dyno pulls at a local speed factory shop here are $150.


I've researched and i realize people run leaner with the RH after they get a reflash, which i don't have. So i shouldn't be running much leaner than stock.

Which doesn't really bother me because the car exhaust smells like it's running too rich, not lean.
So if it's the narrowband then there isn't any point to getting the air fuel gauge?
The normal rate for 3 dyno pulls should be $75. At least from every mustang dyno I've been too. $150 seems to be a rip off.

If the gauge in question is being sold for $25, then I assume it's not a wideband, which in turn would render it useless since it doesn’t display data in real time and won’t give you an accurate reading. If it is a wideband than you have a phenomenal deal, but unless you feel comfortable enough to install it yourself than you still need to take into account installation fees.

I don’t understand why you think you would be running richer with a race header. From what I understand:

Rich: Fuel>Air
Lean: Air>Fuel

The race header is accelerating the air being exhausted, not slowing it down. The stock ecu doesnt know how to compensate for the extra air being mixed into the fuel. Which should make you leaner, just not dangerously lean.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Which would make sense, maybe it's just in my head.:dontknow:

I guess i'll get it dynoed soon and see where it's at.
 

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Resident hater
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the stock o2 is already wideband. but i dont know if that gauge will read the voltage correctly.
 
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