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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a stock 2003 RSX (not Type-S) and my battery keeps draining while the car is off. It is a very small drain, however it is periodically requiring me to jump the car to get it started.

I recently replaced the battery and am still having the same problem. The alternator tests fine as well.

Using a test light, I have determined the drain is coming from backup circuit #9 (under the hood). Unfortunately, this little 7.5A circuit is connected to the following (Based on page 22-50 of shop manual):
1. Audio unit (radio)
2. Data link connection (DLC)
3. Gauge Assembly
4. Immobilizer control unit receiver and indicator light
5. Keyless receiver
6. Multiplex Control Unit
7. Security Control Unit

I am little lost on how to proceed from here. Also, I am not entirely sure where to find all these parts or what they look like.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you,

Zaven
 

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What I used to do as a Chrysler tech is after you isolate the parasitic drain to a certain fuse you start unplugging the components on the circuit until the drain goes away. Not sure if you wanna do that on some of those components without a scan tool. I've diagnosed quite a few cars where the keyless entry or immobilizer were draining the battery by not going to sleep when they are supposed to.
 

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how much of a drain are we talking here?

undo the battery cable and put a multimeter inline in DC Amps mode.

<100mA is normal.
 

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how much of a drain are we talking here?

undo the battery cable and put a multimeter inline in DC Amps mode.

<100mA is normal.
I agree and I don't wanna be a dick when I say this but if he had to jump start the car then its probably more than a normal 100mA. Just saying. But I agree with wanting to know how much of a drain it is.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I will test how much is draining tonight and get back to you. But like grsmnky06, said, I am confident it is more than 100mA. Nevertheless, I will double check.

The radio is stock as is the rest of the car.

I think unplugging the components is going to be the best way to isolate the problem. I don't have scan tool and not sure what I would do with it for this particular problem.

I am trying to locate all the components as well:
1. Audio unit (radio) - remove radio and disconnect
2. Data link connection (DLC) - I know where it is but not sure how to disconnect it
3. Gauge Assembly - Hoping to leave this last, since removing the instrument panel is major work.
4. Immobilizer control unit receiver and indicator light - disconnect all connectors at ignition switch?
5. Keyless receiver - I believe it is under the left side of the dash
6. Multiplex Control Unit - ???
7. Security Control Unit - Behind radio?

Thank you for the quick feedback,

Zaven
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Just got home with my new multimeter. Testing amps on the battery, there is 240mA flowing. Upon removing the 7.5A Backup fuse, the current drops to 1.5mA.

I am moving on to locating and disconnecting the components to further isolate the source of the drain.

Thank you,

Zaven
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Good News!!! - When I connected my test light, I heard a click sound in the car. When I sat down, I noticed the fuel gauge indicator started jumping. As soon as I disconnected the gauge cluster the Amps dropped off.

Now that the cluster is disconnected, I am going to open it up for further investigation.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I have been trying to diagnose this for a couple hours. Not really sure where to go from here. All that I know is, when I disconnect the cluster the problem goes away.

Anyone have a suggestion on how to investigate this further?

Thank you,


Zaven
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Did some more testing. I thinking the cluster needs to be replaced. As soon as I remove the cluster the current being drained drops to <3mA.

I cant think of any other way to fix this other than to replace the cluster. If anyone has any suggestions that would be great.

Thank you,

Zaven
 

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There is no fixing the cluster if its the source of the battery drain. to much of a hassle to try to fix the inside. Just replace it.
 

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unplug it and put the fuse back in. put the multimeter in series with one of the battery cables and see if the drain is below 100mA. or..............

unplug it, put the fuse back in and let it sit over night.

make absolutely sure its not one of those other components though. i've never seen a clutster go bad but i'm sure it has happened. most of the issues i've seen has been with the immobilizer.
 

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Under-hood fuse #9 supplies power to all the components that need power when the key is turned off. On pg 22-174 of the Helm sleep mode is described for the multiplex control unit. It says that normal current draw is 70 to 80mA when the key is first turned off. About 40 seconds later the unit goes into sleep mode and shuts down several systems so that current draw is < 10mA. I haven't measured to confirm...
 

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Following. I'm also experiencing battery issues. '02 Type S. Battery light is on, charged battery and just put back into car. Light still on. Wondering if I have a battery drain issue as well...
 

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The battery light means a charging problem. Check under-dash fuse 4 (10A) in that case. It supplies current to the alternator's field coil.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Thank you all for the help. Unfortunately, it seems I wasnt waiting long enough for the electronics to shut down. I closed the door and waited about 20-30min and the drain went away. I am still having a problem with the starter.

I think that is the source of my problem. Want to replace it but, i cant get to the bolt on top of the starter.
 

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1Dont use a test light. It is inaccurate for this type of testing on a modern vehicle, and can give you a false reading.

2 You have to wait 30-60mins for the vehicle to enter sleep mode. ( Though most Hondas do so in about 15mins)

3 100ma is entirely too high. 50ma is the max with most cars having an actual reading of 30ma or so.



This is the proper way to perform this procedure
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KF1gijj03_0
 

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Same exact problem, except 310mA draw.

Narrowed down to B6 (wht/red) wire going into cluster. That powers Immobilizer light, cpu power circuit, door beep drive circuit, dash light brightness drive, and security LED.

Getting close...will update when possible.
 
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