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I know there are lots of threads on here talking about this same issue and they pretty much all say the same thing, either new battery or new alternator. The light came on from the previous owner. Who replaced the battery and the alternator. I got hurt at work after purchasing the car and it sat for a few weeks. The battery went bad but the alternator was still charging it a bit. I took it to Honda for a diagnosis to figure out exactly what was wrong before I started slapping new parts on. They said the alternator was bad and of course my battery. So I spent $500 on both a remanufactured alternator ("new" with lifetime warranty) and a new battery. The light is currently still on. I know my new parts fixed the problem because my battery is staying at 12.somthing volts after days of letting the car sit. Plus, when the car is running the battery voltage stays a steady high 12's full load (AC and headlights on) and low 13's (when I turn the AC and lights back off) meaning the alternator is doing its job. The belt is tight and it's not slipping. I've checked every fuse under the hood and under the dash. None are blown nor have been blown. I've checked all components under the hood to make sure grounding was good with continuity tests. The only issues I've had are, the trunk quit working which I believe is the actuator. I can still unlock it inside the trunk but we all know if you do this it never locks. So that's not an option. Then about 6 months ago I threw a check engine light for an 02 sensor. I cleared the light. A few days later threw a light again, this time for a secondary 02 sensor. I cleared it and it's been gone every since. I checked the wires under the car on both 02 senors to check for bare copper and shorting issues as stated before on past threads. They were all fine. I still haven't replaced the sensors since the light hasn't came back on. But they're in my shopping cart. I also have a trunk actuator in the cart as well to be purchased. Tomorrow I'm going to be doing a load test on every fuse in the car while it's off to see if anything is pulling while the car is off. However, if anything was pulling enough to make my light stay on, the battery would be draining. Which it's not. Also going to test for shorts on all the fuses as well. Besides checking for shorts does anyone know how to get the battery light off if everything checks out to be fine? There's also a relay according to the wire diagram under the hood in the fuse box that I have to check that's tied into the alternator. Any help or advice would be awesome.

Thanks in advance!
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Also read that replacing the aftermarket alternator with a rebuilt Denso can clear the light. It's amazing how this is such a problem but there's only a handful of solutions within the rabbit hole.
 

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Well Jesus I'll be sure to post a solution when I find one since every one else forgot to on their other 200 "Battery Light" posts.

Thanks anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
In this thread that you posted in earlier
https://forums.clubrsx.com/showthread.php?t=904730

Someone mentioned their alternator tested good twice (post #8), but still triggered the light until it was replaced. The remanufactured ones are a hit and miss based on what I've read on here.
Yeah I just hate to keep swapping them out but it seems like it's my last resort. It's just crazy that they are still pumping out remanufactured alternators after this many have came back with the same problem. You think they would learn that after all the shipping it's costing them to send replacements out. But whatever. It's under warranty. So I'll rip it out again today. Thanks. Like I said, I'll post the solution instead of leaving high and dry since it's a newer thread.
 

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(SOLVED)Battery Light Won't Turn Off 2002 RSX Type S

Problem solved. 3rd new remanufactured alternator made the light go off. My advice to anyone who has this problem, if you don't have the money to buy a brand new Denso then go somewhere where there's a lifetime warranty on the alternator you're buying. I decided to go to Napa Auto Parts for my remanufactured alternator. Returned 2 until I finally got a "good" one on my 3rd try with no questions asked. They said it was a wiring problem but I knew better. The alternators were working fine so I'm not sure what the problem inside is with the ones that won't make the light go out. It's not the voltage regulator because the guy said that's one of the things they check before they tag it as a Pass or Fail. So just keep swapping them out and it'll eventually go out.
 

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This is good to know, so something from the voltage regulator isn't making love to where it should. I need to get a new alt for my build. I might just refurb a good used one as there is a kit and I have a bitching hot solder iron and an adrenaline induced drive to have no battery light.
 

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This is good to know, so something from the voltage regulator isn't making love to where it should. I need to get a new alt for my build. I might just refurb a good used one as there is a kit and I have a bitching hot solder iron and an adrenaline induced drive to have no battery light.
No, no I was saying it isn't the voltage regulator. At least from what the guy at Napa told me. He said they check the regulators before they pass or fail the refurbished alternator. So I honestly don't know what the hell makes that light stay on. Rebuilding yours is probably the cheaper route if you find a good price on a kit. Especially if you have a Denso alternator. I'm honestly just glad to see the damn thing off. Hopefully it doesn't come back.
 

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This is good to know, so something from the voltage regulator isn't making love to where it should. I need to get a new alt for my build. I might just refurb a good used one as there is a kit and I have a bitching hot solder iron and an adrenaline induced drive to have no battery light.
Now my trunk actuator is on the way because my damn trunk won't open unless I go through the back seat. Not quite sure why they don't put key holes in trunks anymore, But whatever. Lol.
 
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