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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hello All

Car

04 RSX Type S
144,xxx miles
2nd owner
ive owned the car for a little over a year. only work ive done is front brakes and rotors. Done over 30 brake jobs in my life with no issues so far.


I had been driviing for about 30-40mins. It was a normal day temps wise. 80s. I going about 25mph and starting and stopping.

My brake pedal got progessively harder over a 2-5min period. I smelled something burning. I stopped and my drivers front wheel appeared to be smoking. I got back in the car to pull it over to the side of the road and it took me in 1st gear at 6k rpms to move the car 5-10 feet.

I immedately thought siezed caliper. I waited the brakes would not release.

I eventually got a tow home for the evening. The car sat for approx. 36hours.


Today I go to assess the problem. I pop the hood and check the master cylider resivour and the rubber seal inside basically shoots out. I get it up in the air. both front wheels spin freely.

The rubber seal will not go back into the resivour. Ive had it out once before with no issue. Its simply to big at this point.


Im not sure if its brakes line collapsed, air in the lines, master cylinder issue? or still a siezed caliper. Im currently trying to track down a new rubber seal for the master cylinder so i can start the car and see what its doing now. I just dont think a rubber seal inside the master cylinder resevouir would casue my front wheel to completely lock up and stop the car from moving.

im stumped. I hate to go to the dealer but Im not sure what direction to head.

Let me know your thoughts

I can give more info if needed

Thanks

Nick
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Im unsure as to what the issue is

I do not know if it is the MC I dont see where I said that but maybe I was unclear

Im not sure what the issue is

Just a random thought...you said that the MC is shot. That might be your first step in rectifying the issue.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Got an update


I discovered that the right front caliper had seized. Which cause my brakes to lock and not release pressure. After test bleeding them. The right front brake hose was collapsed aswell.

The left front bottom slide pin was frozen. This is the side the was smoking from the brakes locking.

I replaced both caliper assemblies and the right font brake hose.

I bled the brakes for over an hour running through alomst a court of new fluid.



2 things are still a concern.

My brake pedal feels a little soft at the start of braking

And I still dont know what caused the rubber seal inside of my master cylinder reservoir to swell and need replaced. Maybe it was from the heat of the fluid?
 

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Shazaam
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4,599 Posts
Got an update


I discovered that the right front caliper had seized. Which cause my brakes to lock and not release pressure. After test bleeding them. The right front brake hose was collapsed aswell.

The left front bottom slide pin was frozen. This is the side the was smoking from the brakes locking.

I replaced both caliper assemblies and the right font brake hose.

I bled the brakes for over an hour running through alomst a court of new fluid.



2 things are still a concern.

My brake pedal feels a little soft at the start of braking

And I still dont know what caused the rubber seal inside of my master cylinder reservoir to swell and need replaced. Maybe it was from the heat of the fluid?
Bleed your brakes again.
 

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Name's Vic
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After bleeding a lot of times your brakes will be soft at the start of braking. Ive had it happen a couple times. As long as it feels fine driving around and its not soft all the way thru then its fine.

The best way to bleed a brake system is to do it with 2 people. Close the bleeder before the pedal gets to the floor that usually helps a ton.
 

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...Maybe it was from the heat of the fluid?
Yes, I think that is a safe assumption. Also, the hose probably collapsed for the same reason (cooked the rubber, boiled the water out of the fluid which made pressure, then as it cooled it collapsed the hose).
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I should have a picture up later of the 2 seals to show the size difference. This will also allow me to drive the car a little more to get a feel

Im debateing on bleeding again or not... I bled almost a quart of new fluid through the system

using a pnematic bleeder until my help arrived. Pittsburg steel product....could have been better. first time buying something of theirs and probably my last
 

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Name's Vic
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Vaccuum bleeders are crap no matter what brand i hate using em.
 

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Never shit a shitter
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The slider pins need to be checked every so often to avoid this issue. It's just something you don't really think of doing, but every time you change your brakes it'll save you a lot of hassle if you just lube them up.

As for the bleeding, you NEED two people unless you have a speed/vaccum bleeder. Spongy brakes are a result of air in the system. It doesn't matter if you do it a million times, if it's not done right it will result in sponginess.
 

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Name's Vic
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Btw you should bleed your brakes every 2years to keep bad shit from happening haha.
 
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