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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hey all!

Wondering if anyone else has experienced this before...

Brand new OEM Honda CMC and slave, bled the system via gravity and went to take the car out for a spin, aside from the clutch grabbing at less than 1/2 inch from the floor, I heard a loud pop and then the clutch pedal felt like it had extra play, got back to the garage and saw brake fluid from the front of the slave cylinder under the rubber boot. Go figure )

Clutch used is 08806 Exedy RSX-S Stage 1
http://shop.exedyusa.com/exedy-racing-clutch/exedy-racing-stage-1-organic-clutch-kit/08806/i-34409.aspx

Question now is, if this is related to not adjusting the CMC rod correctly of if there was still some air trapped in the hydraulics AND if the slave is toast now cause of this. :thumbsdow

I'm wondering if I should have someone press the clutch down while I crack the bleeder and just let it run out till no more air comes as the gravity method seemed to not work so well for me or buy another one and start all over again.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
All the reading up on the Exedy 08806 stage 1 clutch was "just a re-branded oem RSX clutch"

I was trying to figure out how it happened cause air compressed shouldn't have blown out or let brake fluid by the slave cylinder piston when disengaging the clutch, but the underside of my transmission tells a different story.

I left the clutch master cylinder clevis where it was but now I'm thinking that I'll need to adjust that and review the clutch pedal adjustment procedure along with re-bleed the system cause I'm sure air got in now after the slave blew through all it's travel.

I scoured over the documentation Exedy provided but it did not mention anything about what talonxracer mentions, though a good idea to be sure but wouldn't adjusting the clevis compensate for the additional throw?

Or is the washer addition supposed to occur on the inside of the transmission, the pivot ball inside needs to come out and a washer added there?

Oh what fun :) Least the second time removing the transmission will be a bit easier.
 

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if you didn't notice, click on the quote from the previous post, it's linked to the thread.

so if your on a stage 1, you should be okay. since your obviously not, i was trying to think of what else would mess with the clutch geometry. thats why i thought possibly a bent release fork, but maybe the pivot ball is worn really bad.

when you put on the clutch you have now, did you resurface/re-use your flywheel?

If there was enough material removed when resurfacing it would basically be the same thing because it would lessen the installed height of the clutch assembly.

or maybe it was resurfaced with an incorrect step. (0.045" step)
 

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Discussion Starter #5
if you didn't notice, click on the quote from the previous post, it's linked to the thread.

so if your on a stage 1, you should be okay. since your obviously not, i was trying to think of what else would mess with the clutch geometry. thats why i thought possibly a bent release fork, but maybe the pivot ball is worn really bad.

when you put on the clutch you have now, did you resurface/re-use your flywheel?

If there was enough material removed when resurfacing it would basically be the same thing because it would lessen the installed height of the clutch assembly.

or maybe it was resurfaced with an incorrect step. (0.045" step)
Probably would help if I mentioned the clutch I was using, Exedy 08806 Organic Stage 1.

Flywheel is a DC5 ITR flywheel, resurfaced. It'd be just my luck too that it would be something fussy like this.:deadhorse .

I appreciate the help and insight. I'm gonna take another crack at it tonight, I've got a 2k rpm issue at idle now when I re-installed my JRSC that I never had before but that's something entirely different.

I'll re-bleed, and adjust the pedal and see where I'm at. If it happens to be the flywheel I'll have to buy a lottery ticket!!
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Probably would help if I mentioned the clutch I was using, Exedy 08806 Organic Stage 1.

Flywheel is a DC5 ITR flywheel, resurfaced. It'd be just my luck too that it would be something fussy like this.:deadhorse .

I appreciate the help and insight. I'm gonna take another crack at it tonight, I've got a 2k rpm issue at idle now when I re-installed my JRSC that I never had before but that's something entirely different.

I'll re-bleed, and adjust the pedal and see where I'm at. If it happens to be the flywheel I'll have to buy a lottery ticket!!
New slave installed and bled and things are going well except for the actual adjustment part. The Honda manual states that the clutch pedal should be 7.6 when fully disengaged but I can't seem to get it on the nose, I'm like 3 - 4 1/6 off and do they include the height of the carpet as well?

I've been adjusting the CMC a few different times and can't seem to get it sorted out where I think it's going to be ok. Any ideas? I've got the rod threaded so there's about a thread coming through the front now, almost flush in the clevis.

And for the clutch switch, Honda states to have it touch the pedal but does anyone know if they mean the actual reed switch inside the metal housing or if you should thread it until the metal housing touches the pedal and then turn 3/4 - 1 turn further?



Course the lovely Honda manual has a schematic which is not correlating the letters to the measurements.

 

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Discussion Starter #7
I ended up for now just trying to get as close as I could to the 7.6in pedal adjustment and measured from the actual floor pan under the carpet and the floor mat. I ended up getting the pushrod just about flush in the clevis, has one thread peeking out, adjusted the clutch switch took it for a spin and called it a day.

Since it's a hydraulic system I don't think clutch over travel could be a thing since the slave really regulates the throw and if you go over that any extra fluid would go back to the reservoir back through the CMC.

I wish Honda provided a template of sorts or better instruction on measurements so you knew with certainty you had it dialed in correctly.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
For anyone else who was racking their brain about how to adjust or setup their CMC.

Measuring the pedal distance from the floor really does not mean much, it's actually the throw of the CMC pushrod which will allow the slave to disengage the clutch and allow for any excess fluid to be returned to the cmc resivoir.

I took a cutout of cardboard and put it right against the floor pan and marked and measured the clutch pedal at rest, the clutch pedal fully depressed, the clutch pedal with the play taken out of the pedal when slightly depressed and the engage point when the throwout bearing is no longer engaging the pressureplate fingers.

Measure all that up and then compare it to the lovely diagram provided by honda and see if you are within the spec. I was after a small amount of adjustment and the clevis on the pushrod on the CMC was just a tad above the halfway point, splitting hairs but the clutch has a full range of travel, the excess fluid in the slave can get returned as I am not extending the pushrod so far into the CMC and the engagement point is around the 1/2 to 1 from the floor and feels like it did when first purchased.
 
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