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Discussion Starter #1
Hello,

I am torn between these three shifters. I want something to improve just the feel of the shifter, nothing too extravagant. My current stock shifter is crunchy and sloppy. I'd also ideally like to not spend a lot.

I already have the K-Tuned Shifter Box Bushings and Spherical Shifter Cable Bushings. I have not installed them but decided to weigh my options first before buying more things.

I was thinking of one of the following:

Buddyclub SS ($110) + K-Tuned Billet Shift Arm ($110) + K-Tuned Shifter Box Bushings ($20) + K-Tuned Spherical Shifter Cable Bushing ($50) + M-Tec Shifter Spring ($40) = $330

K-Tuned Billet Shifter ($400) + K-Tuned Shifter Box Bushings ($20) + K-Tuned Spherical Shifter Cable Bushing ($50) + M-Tec Shifter Spring ($40) = $510

Hybrid Racing Short Shifter ($341) + K-Tuned Shifter Box Bushings ($20) + K-Tuned Spherical Shifter Cable Bushing ($50) + M-Tec Shifter Spring ($40) = $451

We're talking a $60 difference for the K-Tuned Billet Shifter and the HR SS, which I am willing to pay for the better one. But the Buddyclub SS pricing is very attractive. Though from my research, it doesn't seem like the billet shift arm fits on it.

I know a lot of you baby your RSX and want the best but mine isn't exactly showcar or racecar condition and I rather get parts that are "good enough" and not "the best", hence my attraction to cheaper products.

Any thoughts?
 

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05 Type S RH Reflash LSD
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If I were to do it all over again and enjoy my car for many years, I would just get the K-Tuned Billet Shifter. Everyone says it's the cat's pajamas, and has great resale value.

I, instead, took a much cheaper route, which, you may want to consider (for cheapness) but it may not leave you very satisfied. I did the shifter cable bushings on the tranny end (Strut King used to make these out of metal), and shift box bushings under the console, but never did the MTEC Springs (yet...). But what I did do is the K-tuned Shifter Arm you mentioned paired with a SS adapter from Circuit Hero (not perfect, has play, but now it looks like you get bolts with your order) and shift lever extender (think Rallye style, or EP3 Civic). But anyways all that was like what, $25 + 23 + 126 + 45 + 30 = $249 fricken dollars. Dang things were expensive back then. Now it would be like: $?? + 28 + 110 + 30 + 20 = low $200's? But even cheaper is if you get the K-tuned neutral return spring set instead of the entire shifter arm. I didn't go that route because I knew I wanted a shift lever extender and didn't want to think about the arm flexing and breaking, but that woulda saved me nearly $80. That brings the cheapo route down to like $130. Not too bad. Add the MTEC springs and you're back up to $170 or so.

Idk if this is helping. If I were still going cheap, I would do your first option minus the billet shift arm plus the return spring and pivot ball set instead and maybe some of the cheaper bushings I referenced. But if I wanted to do it right, I would go with Option 2 and have that beast sticking out of my console and enjoy my car every single gear change :vtec:. I don't know much about Option 3, since it is newer.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
If I were to do it all over again and enjoy my car for many years, I would just get the K-Tuned Billet Shifter. Everyone says it's the cat's pajamas, and has great resale value.

I, instead, took a much cheaper route, which, you may want to consider (for cheapness) but it may not leave you very satisfied. I did the shifter cable bushings on the tranny end (Strut King used to make these out of metal), and shift box bushings under the console, but never did the MTEC Springs (yet...). But what I did do is the K-tuned Shifter Arm you mentioned paired with a SS adapter from Circuit Hero (not perfect, has play, but now it looks like you get bolts with your order) and shift lever extender (think Rallye style, or EP3 Civic). But anyways all that was like what, $25 + 23 + 126 + 45 + 30 = $249 fricken dollars. Dang things were expensive back then. Now it would be like: $?? + 28 + 110 + 30 + 20 = low $200's? But even cheaper is if you get the K-tuned neutral return spring set instead of the entire shifter arm. I didn't go that route because I knew I wanted a shift lever extender and didn't want to think about the arm flexing and breaking, but that woulda saved me nearly $80. That brings the cheapo route down to like $130. Not too bad. Add the MTEC springs and you're back up to $170 or so.

Idk if this is helping. If I were still going cheap, I would do your first option minus the billet shift arm plus the return spring and pivot ball set instead and maybe some of the cheaper bushings I referenced. But if I wanted to do it right, I would go with Option 2 and have that beast sticking out of my console and enjoy my car every single gear change :vtec:. I don't know much about Option 3, since it is newer.
No, your insight is appreciated. It's a great help. I don't really expect anyone to know for sure since it's unlikely anyone has owned more than one shifter in their ownership of an RSX. Did you like the short shifter you got? Was it "solid"? Or did you constantly think "this was a waste of money"?
 

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05 Type S RH Reflash LSD
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I know there's people on here than have posted and love it (the billet shift box). There's some reviews on here of the shifter arm that came out first. 'Tis pretty great for what it is. I had to file down the RSX shift box a tiny bit because it left play in the housing against the spring (I made it match the thickness of the K-tuned arm so the spring would fully return in both left & right directions). That made it solid.

But, regarding my Circuit Hero SS adapter, it was not contoured exactly to that of the K-tuned billet shift arm, so I had to drill through the SS adapter to match the K-tuned arm. It was off by a few millimeters, so I just made the hole slightly oval shaped at the end of the day, but there is no play in it because it can only fit in the circle where I drilled it. I was advised by K-tuned not to use the lateral short shift adapter piece (only the fore and aft adapter) to keep wide gates and avoid misshifts, and keep the arm pivot ball from seeing extra forces.

I did not think it was a waste of money, but I feel like I was kind of a lot of money to piecemeal it all together. I'd either go full-blown, or skip the billet stuff, cuz really at some point something is gonna be weaker than the rest, like the shift cables. Are you replacing those if you get the K-tuned or HR box? That's even more money, but I think they come with their bushings included. I didn't change mine because cheap/lazy and didn't seem anybody else was with mere spring & bushing upgrades.
 

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Ill chime in for some more insight for you. I actually have used all three!

I owned a Buddy Club SS for a total of 2 weeks.. Buddy was going back to OEM and I just did a straight trade to him more as a favor. Found it to be like OEM but felt meh.. then I happened to find a JTC V1 Short Shifter adaptor in an OEM housing with the Ktuned adaptor and K tuned bushings and stuff and it was better. I enjoyed it but I just wanted more. The throws were short but it still felt a little better slop wise than OEM. Sold Buddy Club for like 60 bucks, paid 120 for this JTC.

I ended up finding a KTuned for cheap on here, I think I paid 300 shipped for it, sold the JTC for 120ish and chalked up as a win (upgrading for a little bit more).

I ran the KTuned for a couple years, went to the Dragon Run with it, loved it but I found with heavy use and long driving the heat from the frame and exhaust would seize up the lube and it would make it very difficult to shift. It was really hard to explain but it just didnt feel right. It was tight and crisp and I loved every bit of it but it was nagging me.

I ended up getting a HR SS on black friday special. Sold the KTuned for like 300 (same price I paid) and after discounts got a brand new HR SS for 340ish bucks (it was 15% off I think?). I watched reviews of them all and ultimately Type Spaz had an old review video and it looked promising for the adjustable throw, placement, wiggle, etc. I made the switch and I honestly never looked back!

The only thing I replaced are the shifter bushings on the tranny case and bushings that bolt it down.

I love the Hybrid racing shifter, I def had to adjust it alot to get the right feel but I love where I got it at and it has never caused me a problem once (other than when I didnt lock it in tight enough and the height sunk on me lol)

MY advice to you, dont toy with piecing together a shifter.. go KTuned or HR. They will do more than accomplish what you want. I still get that 2nd gear pop and 3rd grind with all my setups but KTuned and HR I have it way way less.

I firmly believe HR is more for everyday driving and KTuned if you are trying to race.

KTuned has accessories like the 5/6 lockout, heavy heavy duty, can take abuse and hard shifts (the adjustment points have divets and lock much more securely IMO)

HR has millions of ways to customize where and how high it sits, etc. Does what it is designed for, Short Shifting and is very minimalistic design, tight short shifts. I have shifted hard on it and I have yet to feel like I was going to break anything and mine is set to the shortest shift, highest height.

That is my honest opinion on everything and looking forward I honestly feel that if I get another car to where HR makes a shifter for it, I am going to get it.
 

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bleep-bleep bleeeep
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I had the Hybrid Racing one in my Type S. It was pretty amazing. But I fucked up my knee and have a Base now. It was pretty snicky. And all of Spaz's observations were backed up.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Ill chime in for some more insight for you. I actually have used all three!

I owned a Buddy Club SS for a total of 2 weeks.. Buddy was going back to OEM and I just did a straight trade to him more as a favor. Found it to be like OEM but felt meh.. then I happened to find a JTC V1 Short Shifter adaptor in an OEM housing with the Ktuned adaptor and K tuned bushings and stuff and it was better. I enjoyed it but I just wanted more. The throws were short but it still felt a little better slop wise than OEM. Sold Buddy Club for like 60 bucks, paid 120 for this JTC.

I ended up finding a KTuned for cheap on here, I think I paid 300 shipped for it, sold the JTC for 120ish and chalked up as a win (upgrading for a little bit more).

I ran the KTuned for a couple years, went to the Dragon Run with it, loved it but I found with heavy use and long driving the heat from the frame and exhaust would seize up the lube and it would make it very difficult to shift. It was really hard to explain but it just didnt feel right. It was tight and crisp and I loved every bit of it but it was nagging me.

I ended up getting a HR SS on black friday special. Sold the KTuned for like 300 (same price I paid) and after discounts got a brand new HR SS for 340ish bucks (it was 15% off I think?). I watched reviews of them all and ultimately Type Spaz had an old review video and it looked promising for the adjustable throw, placement, wiggle, etc. I made the switch and I honestly never looked back!

The only thing I replaced are the shifter bushings on the tranny case and bushings that bolt it down.

I love the Hybrid racing shifter, I def had to adjust it alot to get the right feel but I love where I got it at and it has never caused me a problem once (other than when I didnt lock it in tight enough and the height sunk on me lol)

MY advice to you, dont toy with piecing together a shifter.. go KTuned or HR. They will do more than accomplish what you want. I still get that 2nd gear pop and 3rd grind with all my setups but KTuned and HR I have it way way less.

I firmly believe HR is more for everyday driving and KTuned if you are trying to race.

KTuned has accessories like the 5/6 lockout, heavy heavy duty, can take abuse and hard shifts (the adjustment points have divets and lock much more securely IMO)

HR has millions of ways to customize where and how high it sits, etc. Does what it is designed for, Short Shifting and is very minimalistic design, tight short shifts. I have shifted hard on it and I have yet to feel like I was going to break anything and mine is set to the shortest shift, highest height.

That is my honest opinion on everything and looking forward I honestly feel that if I get another car to where HR makes a shifter for it, I am going to get it.
Thank you for the write up. I saw Spaz's video as well. I think I will be going with the Hybrid Racing shifter! Thank you!
 

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I love my Hybrid racing shifter ive had it in my car for about 3 years now and not one complaint. I also paired it with the hybrid racing shifter bushings, the mtec shifter spring and skunk2 weighted shift knob and I can say I dont remember the last time I had my 3rd gear pop out. I know it also depends how bad your syncro's are to begin with but this set up has decreased the problem almost to nothing for me.
 

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I've had all 3 without all the extra stuff buddy club is trash , k tuned was good I had the original version was very simple but I felt like I would have to be spot on with my shifting when I race or I would miss 3rd lol . I just received the gold hr shifter it's way more complicated not as simple das k tuned I still haven't figured it out . But it's way stiffer than k tuned I hope to figure it out soon and enjoy it like everyone else
 
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