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Car is 2006 RSX Type-S with 179k miles on it. This is a recap of stuff I had to buy and what I did to install this cheap kit.
After having it for a year with bolt-ons, I decided to send it and get a turbo kit. I was never planning to spend much money so I went with the EMUSA kit. Ebay and Amazon are your best friends here. Links to where I bought everything will be posted throughout.
First, the car was already making 210 hp with bolt-ons, shooting big flames, and a lot of fun. But it's addicting and you want more. Also should go without saying you Need KPRO or KTuner to run a turbo. So if you don't have that, buy it before you ever consider getting a turbo kit. I ordered the Kit off ebay for $880.
Turbo kit: Turbo Kits T3/T4 Turbo for 02-06 Acura RSX Type-S Coupe 2D DOHC 2.0 ONLY FOR DC5 | eBay
Opening it up I was impressed, comes with a lot of stuff. Has downpipe, midpipe, wastegate, blow off valve, turbo itself, exhaust manifold, oil feed and drain lines, manual boost controller, fuel pressure regulator, and Intercooler with piping (great because its specific to this car, not universal). Kit nearly comes with everything you need, but here are a few additional thing I had to buy to make it work.
2 inch aluminum intercooler 90 degree elbow: 90 degree pipe
3 inch to 2-1/4 silicone reducer for piping to attach to throttle body: 3 to 2.25" adapter
Two 2 inch silicone couplers: 2 inch intercooler adapter
New -10an oil drain lines with fittings (oil return that came was junk): I bought my line and a 90 degree 10an fitting from a local race shop but here's a link to a quality line: oil drain line
A few hose clamps from Oreily's.
Now here are some supporting mods I bought along with the Turbo kit.
1000cc Injectors $80: Injectors My tuner was quite skeptical that these were $80. Surprised they worked well for "Wuhan garbage"
Walbro 255 LPH fuel pump: Fuel pump Look on clubrsx for Type-Spaz install guide.
Stage 4 clutch and flywheel rated to 339 HP: Stage 4 clutch works great, no complaints for $200
4 Bar MAP sensor: MAP sensor cheap but it works
Boost Gauge: Boost Gauge I just mounted it near the A-pillar with 3m double sticky tape
Add a circuit for the boost gauge: add a circuit
Exhaust Heat Wrap for downpipe (keep heat in): Heat Wrap
Reflective heat wrap (keep heat out): Reflective heat wrap
Turbo Blanket: Turbo blanket
Catback Exahust: Exhaust
Wastegate dump tube: Dump Tube
O2 sensor defouler: Defouler Really not necessary cause you can turn it off with Ktuner or KPRO
Vacuum block: Vacuum block Some people run these, some people Tee off the brake booster line for their vacuum source. I like this cause it looks cool.

Be ready for a few days to install and a multiple trips to the Auto parts store. I did mine in a week. For my first turbo install ever, it went well, but be prepared for A LOT of figuring it out as you go. This kit comes with no instructions. ClubRSX is awesome for finding answers. Also check out JDMods and Dc5_Max on youtube. Both are about the only RSX's with EMUSA turbo kits I could find. When your installing, make sure to heat wrap the crap outta all the things near the turbo. This includes main wiring harness, Heater hoses, AC line, and Power steering line. The midpipe exhaust with this kit will not bolt up to stock exhaust or the one I linked above. Be prepared to take that to the shop just to get welded to the catback, unless your a welder. Shop did mine for $150. Next, you need a -10an bung welded or tapped into the oil pan for the oil drain line. I had mine done at the same time with the clutch cause you need the subframe off for both, so its a good 2 for one job. You want the bung placed as high as possible above the stock oil drain plug. You also need to make your own custom brackets to mount the intercooler. AC line needs to be bent with some persuasion, but can fit with a turbo and you still have functioning AC, I can attest to that. Either have the Injen smaller windshield washer fluid reservoir or just remove it for the intercooler piping to fit. Re route a ziptie or secure the Power steering line as far away from the turbo as possible. Multiple people have melted that because it got to hot and close. For the vacuum lines, like I said some people like tapping to the brake booster, but I went with a cheap vacuum block to run everything cause I like the way it looks. Mine is mounted on top of my RBC intake manifold, with it getting its vacuum source from the passenger side port of the manifold that feeds the PCV valve. For a intake off the turbo i'm just running a dirt cheap short ram intake that I cut to size to fit. I had to lengthen the Intake Air Temperature sensor and Secondary O2 sensors to fit their new locations. I just used speaker wire for that, no issues. There are various connections with the included intercooler piping that are just to small for the included silicone couplers. I remedy this by wrapping the intercooler pipe with duck tape until its a snug fit in the coupler, and tighten the crap outta it with a hose or T-clamp. No leaks yer.

I made 296HP and 238 lbft of Torque with this kit and the fuel pump/injectors listed. This is my first turbo car ever, and it feels FAST! Spins tires in 1st-3rd gear and pulls hard. I'm also running on the included 7 pound wastegate spring and boost cut is set at 10 pounds. Since I have a 06, I have Ktuner instead of KPRO cause it is plug and play. If you have a 02-04 get KPRO. I didn't want to have to mess with the harness to get KPRO to work on a 05-06. Ktuner gave us hell during the tune, but otherwise I like it. Just has issue with live data logging. I could have made more power with more boost, but to keep it by far on the safe side for daily driver, we stopped there. My goal was 300hp, and I'm saying I hit it. Tuner says with a slightly bigger turbo, these K20's hit 400 hp without flinching. Maybe next time :) Anyway, there is my experience with this kit and install. I'm sure I forgot little things, but o well. Get ready to figure it out as you go. Might get some pics up of the car in the morning.
 

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you went through a great deal for this write up. Very good information for people!
 

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Great useful information! Did you end up dealing with any boost creep? I'm about to start my build and was wondering if that's an issue with this kit
 

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Yes, I was able to keep AC fully functional and stock lines intact. Just had to remove a bracket and slightly bent the AC line.
Clutch had been holding up so far. Put a few thousand miles on it, with plenty of launches thrown in there. I doubt it'll last super long, but it's so cheap it doesn't matter.
Yes, kit is only $880, not too shabby.
Since installing the kit, I blew my engine 🤦. Nothing to do with the kit. Poor street tune and overheating it in 105° weather doing 8 pulls back to back, I melted a piston. Now I'm built with wiseco pistons, Skunk2 alpha rods, ARP headstuds, new main and rod bearings, head gasket, etc. Put the kit back on, still pulls great. The turbo isn't big enough to keep up with the boost these lower compression pistons want, so that will need to be upgraded, but for a stock k20 it is fine. Definitely use a electronic boost solenoid, rather than the included manual boost controller. Running boost by gear is sooo much better. Here are some pics in the engine bay and of the car. See if I can get a Dyno vid.
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Yes, I was able to keep AC fully functional and stock lines intact. Just had to remove a bracket and slightly bent the AC line.
Clutch had been holding up so far. Put a few thousand miles on it, with plenty of launches thrown in there. I doubt it'll last super long, but it's so cheap it doesn't matter.
Yes, kit is only $880, not too shabby.
Since installing the kit, I blew my engine 🤦. Nothing to do with the kit. Poor street tune and overheating it in 105° weather doing 8 pulls back to back, I melted a piston. Now I'm built with wiseco pistons, Skunk2 alpha rods, ARP headstuds, new main and rod bearings, head gasket, etc. Put the kit back on, still pulls great. The turbo isn't big enough to keep up with the boost these lower compression pistons want, so that will need to be upgraded, but for a stock k20 it is fine. Definitely use a electronic boost solenoid, rather than the included manual boost controller. Running boost by gear is sooo much better. Here are some pics in the engine bay and of the car. See if I can get a Dyno vid. View attachment 567690 View attachment 567691 View attachment 567692 View attachment 567693 View attachment 567694
Thanks for the write-up my man 👍🏼. I was about to go K24 but not going to lie, this looks fun. Are you running the included BOV ? The only “modding” I’m seeing is having to compensate for the supplied couplers not clamping on the IC piping. You used duct tape? Is there another way to remedy this? Possibly thicker coupler?..

Are you tuned on 93 pump?
 

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Thanks for the write-up my man 👍🏼. I was about to go K24 but not going to lie, this looks fun. Are you running the included BOV ? The only “modding” I’m seeing is having to compensate for the supplied couplers not clamping on the IC piping. You used duct tape? Is there another way to remedy this? Possibly thicker coupler?..

Are you tuned on 93 pump?
Yes I'm running the included BOV and wastegate. Both have held up fine, so far. I'll upgrade them when they break or wear out. Yeah, that "modding" for the intercool couplers was me wrapping ducktape on smaller diameter 2" piping to match the 2.25" piping. It's janky and it was just to get me rolling. I've since gone to my local race shop and gotten correctly sized adapters to make everything work, and now it's all together much better, right, and leak free. You don't need a thicker coupler, you just need a reducer coupler, so a 2.25" to a 2". You can get these in straight pieces, 90°', all sorts of shapes and sizes. Your kit might be different so just measure and but what you need. I'm tuned on 91 gas, not 93. That's what I have at every pump here.
 

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Can't wait for NY to steadily hit the mid 60's so I can work on my car and start hurting feelings this summer. Btw this shit blessed bc I was not trying to spend a lot on a kit, just something cheap where I can throw upgrades here and there till I'm at a point where I'm happy with a reasonable amount of power. I was looking at the REV9 kit but this is cheaper and has a better review than what I've seen on that kit and you did gods work with your thread. Also are you on stock suspension (besides coils/springs, shit like bushings, strut supports, sway bars etc.) motor mounts, and axles still?!?!?
 

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Can't wait for NY to steadily hit the mid 60's so I can work on my car and start hurting feelings this summer. Btw this shit blessed bc I was not trying to spend a lot on a kit, just something cheap where I can throw upgrades here and there till I'm at a point where I'm happy with a reasonable amount of power. I was looking at the REV9 kit but this is cheaper and has a better review than what I've seen on that kit and you did gods work with your thread. Also are you on stock suspension (besides coils/springs, shit like bushings, strut supports, sway bars etc.) motor mounts, and axles still?!?!?
Yeah I tried to make write up nice and detailed because I know firsthand how many questions turboing give you! I'm on a weird suspension set up from getting things through deals with people. Raceland coilovers up front, H&R lowering springs on stock struts in the back. Going to be getting a full set of matching coilovers here shortly. But right now it's quite low and scrapes a lot. I have Ktuned front lower control arms. Everything else suspension stock, sway bars, supports, all of it. Stock motor mounts too, because when I bought the car they were replaced and now only have 30k on them, holding up for now. And yes, stock axles. My ebay clutch is going to need to be upgraded before the axles break. People run stocks to 500 without issue from what I've seen. Turbo gets expensive quick. Some stuff you gotta upgrade, some stuff you just let it wear out stock and replace it when it's a problem unless you want to dump a quick 15k on everything 😂.
 

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Yeah I tried to make write up nice and detailed because I know firsthand how many questions turboing give you! I'm on a weird suspension set up from getting things through deals with people. Raceland coilovers up front, H&R lowering springs on stock struts in the back. Going to be getting a full set of matching coilovers here shortly. But right now it's quite low and scrapes a lot. I have Ktuned front lower control arms. Everything else suspension stock, sway bars, supports, all of it. Stock motor mounts too, because when I bought the car they were replaced and now only have 30k on them, holding up for now. And yes, stock axles. My ebay clutch is going to need to be upgraded before the axles break. People run stocks to 500 without issue from what I've seen. Turbo gets expensive quick. Some stuff you gotta upgrade, some stuff you just let it wear out stock and replace it when it's a problem unless you want to dump a quick 15k on everything 😂.
That's how i treat my car too, ill upgrade a controversial supporting mod that isn't mandatory when it gives out on me. I asked about axles bc I snapped one of mine last summer and figured if I street race anyone while boosted on grippy tires then my axle(s) might go out again with a nice launch. I'm ordering that kit today just so it forces me to buy supporting mods sooner so i can be built and tuned for warm weather. I don't have a secondary car either so when the car is down I'll ride my hooverboard places or hopefully have this DRZ400supermoto by then loll
 
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