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*BOOSTED* Lead Foot
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I called CN today about burning oil at high RPM's..they suggested a couple things to me..but I fear the worst...

See, before I even put on this turbo, I noticed some light oil stains right above the exhaust manifold...it looked kinda old and stuff..so I fear that I have a blown head gasket now:( not because of the turbo, but because of normal operation...I knew I shouldn't have put on the turbo when I saw this... but...oh well I think :dontknow:

ANyways...I'm thinking about buying CN's triple layer head gasket. Replacing the head gasket...is this something I should be able to do on my own? I have mechanical experience of installing my own turbo and suspension by myself. I don't think replacing the head gasket would take too long...maybe a day or 2 on my own..or is this something I shouldn't touch? I'm planning on going with CN stage 2 this time next year.

or is there anything else that I should be looking for as problem troubleshooting? I think this is the headgasket because there's oily residue (looks like old) on the exhaust side of my engine. My car doesn't smoke all the time, just at high rpm's like 5K+

any help is appreciated.
 

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Aft3rburn said:
I called CN today about burning oil at high RPM's..they suggested a couple things to me..but I fear the worst...

See, before I even put on this turbo, I noticed some light oil stains right above the exhaust manifold...it looked kinda old and stuff..so I fear that I have a blown head gasket now:( not because of the turbo, but because of normal operation...I knew I shouldn't have put on the turbo when I saw this... but...oh well I think :dontknow:

ANyways...I'm thinking about buying CN's triple layer head gasket. Replacing the head gasket...is this something I should be able to do on my own? I have mechanical experience of installing my own turbo and suspension by myself. I don't think replacing the head gasket would take too long...maybe a day or 2 on my own..or is this something I shouldn't touch? I'm planning on going with CN stage 2 this time next year.

or is there anything else that I should be looking for as problem troubleshooting? I think this is the headgasket because there's oily residue (looks like old) on the exhaust side of my engine. My car doesn't smoke all the time, just at high rpm's like 5K+

any help is appreciated.
Are you sure this oil isn't coming from the valve cover gasket?? I've seen quite a few get warranty work for the valve cover gasket leaking on the exhaust side, so check that :thumbsup:
 

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yeah, check the rocker cover gasket, that takes no time.

If you have to replace the HG, make sure you have an accurated torque wrench man. Nothing sucks more than a wrongly torqued head.
 

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bluesiTYPER said:
Are you sure this oil isn't coming from the valve cover gasket?? I've seen quite a few get warranty work for the valve cover gasket leaking on the exhaust side, so check that :thumbsup:
I agree with this. This is something you will want to check. I have a small oil stain on the exhaust side of my valve cover which i will be having acura check out when i take it in for maintenance


However, if you do decide to change the head gasket, you have to remember something. Head bolts are Torque-to-yeild(TTY) bolts. They are not reusable. You will have to get new head bolts if you want to do this. TTY bolts are made to stretch to the their maximum limit. If you remove the bolt, it becomes useless and has to be replaced.
 

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29lbs/ft according to the service manual, so long as the bolt is not dogboned you can reuse it :D

Doesn't say they are torque to yield it says, if the diameter at specific points is less than 10.6 mm the replace the bolt.
I'd call honda and find out, they may be reusable :D
 

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03RSeXyasscar said:
29lbs/ft according to the service manual, so long as the bolt is not dogboned you can reuse it :D

Doesn't say they are torque to yield it says, if the diameter at specific points is less than 10.6 mm the replace the bolt.
I'd call honda and find out, they may be reusable :D
Yeah, i should have checked helms before i said that, but i just figured they were TTY since most head bolts nowadays are.
 

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swordcrowned said:
Yeah, i should have checked helms before i said that, but i just figured they were TTY since most head bolts nowadays are.

Well, I totally agree with you. I always replace head bolts. It's just a good practiceespecially with bi metal head/block assemblies :D
 

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*BOOSTED* Lead Foot
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
oh man! thanks all for the suggestions! yeah, I'm not leaking any oil..no oilstains on my garage...and I think you all are onto something here...here's to hopin' it's the valve cover gasket...should I order it from Acura? I think I'll check to see if I can get one that's better than stock from here or CN.
 

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Aft3rburn said:
oh man! thanks all for the suggestions! yeah, I'm not leaking any oil..no oilstains on my garage...and I think you all are onto something here...here's to hopin' it's the valve cover gasket...should I order it from Acura? I think I'll check to see if I can get one that's better than stock from here or CN.
if it is the rocker cov gasket, then you can pick it up from any autoparts suppier for about 30 usd, installation is a snap.

it's a 5 piece kit, the cover gasket and 4 spark cylider gaskets. When you take the cover off to see take out the 4 ring gaskets for the SP and inspect them, then pull the plugs and see if there is oil down there.

If there is oil down there remove all the plugs disable the ignition and put a clean oil absorbant rag over the holes and crank the engine a few time, that will blow the oil out. :D

the replace everything, tighten accordingly and enjoy.

on a side note: with the rocker cover off, make sure you don't contaminate it with dirt and crap cuz it's gotta back on man. :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I just want to clear some things up..but rocker cover gasket, we're still talking about the valve cover gasket right? I'll look into this today:) thanks guys!:)
 

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lol.....the pretty read one. :laughing:
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I want BLUE damn it!!!:) hehehe
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I think I may have found out why I was burning oil...possibly smoking my turbo...dunno...but I had the vacuum line to my BOV hooked up to a "T" type fitting...there's an upside down "U" on the right side of the intake manifold, and it goes into like a valve or a switch...my old CAI used to have a hose from that hooked into the pipe..which I thought was vacuum. It wasn't...

So basically, what I'm thinking is that at high rpm's the oil seal of my turbo would smoke and the fluttering wasn't the BOV like I was thinking it was...it was the turbo itself!

I tried a couple runs really quick after hooking the BOV into the rubber hose that is in front of that "U" bend...and no noticeable smoke...so we'll see..

one suggestion for CN on their instructions...include a vacuum line diagram and pictures of where to hook the boost, and BOV to...There were none in my instructions so I had to best guess on everything..
 

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Aft3rburn said:
I think I may have found out why I was burning oil...possibly smoking my turbo...dunno...but I had the vacuum line to my BOV hooked up to a "T" type fitting...there's an upside down "U" on the right side of the intake manifold, and it goes into like a valve or a switch...my old CAI used to have a hose from that hooked into the pipe..which I thought was vacuum. It wasn't...

So basically, what I'm thinking is that at high rpm's the oil seal of my turbo would smoke and the fluttering wasn't the BOV like I was thinking it was...it was the turbo itself!

I tried a couple runs really quick after hooking the BOV into the rubber hose that is in front of that "U" bend...and no noticeable smoke...so we'll see..

one suggestion for CN on their instructions...include a vacuum line diagram and pictures of where to hook the boost, and BOV to...There were none in my instructions so I had to best guess on everything..
I would hook the vacuum to the u in front of the valve cover on the right side.

As for the fluttering, it sounds like the BOV to me. If you have the RFL you will want to make sure that it is strait. There are 3 allen key screws that you will use to make is strait. If you just turn them until they feel tight it may not be due to the nuts that are on the allen screw. So make sure that you back out the nuts all the way, then tighten the allens, then put the nuts back on. Also, take out the plunger for the BOV and clean it thoroughly. It may have dirt or some contamination that is causing it to bind.
 

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03RSeXyasscar said:
29lbs/ft according to the service manual, so long as the bolt is not dogboned you can reuse it :D

Doesn't say they are torque to yield it says, if the diameter at specific points is less than 10.6 mm the replace the bolt.
I'd call honda and find out, they may be reusable :D
I checked the helms last night. They are tty bolts. The measurement is to determine if the bolt has reached its maximum elasticity. Thats why you measure in two different places.
 

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wow, that's weird, I wonder why they would even put that in the manual if they are tty??

With that in the manual, there can be a few warped heads runnin around y'know?

Damn OEM manuals.

Thanks for the info man. Good to know.
 

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03RSeXyasscar said:
wow, that's weird, I wonder why they would even put that in the manual if they are tty??

With that in the manual, there can be a few warped heads runnin around y'know?

Damn OEM manuals.

Thanks for the info man. Good to know.
Yeah i agree. Im guessing that 99% of these bolts are going to fail when measured. It doesnt exactly say that they are tty, but if you read the rest of the procedure, it tells you that after you torque the bolts to 29lb-ft(i think that was the torque spec) that you turn the bolt 90 degrees in two steps. If its a new bolt, then you do an extra 3rd 90 degrees.
 
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