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I DONT OWN AN RSX ANYMORE
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys, I was in the process of changing my brake pads (front) tonight and barley got into it and found that the 14mm bolt at the bottom of the caliper is on tighter than I can imagine. The pads are still oem honda pads so I doubt that it was overtightened. I only tried one side so I'm not sure if theyre both like this; but I need some help on how I can get it to loosen without possible breaking the bolt or something. Let me know if you have any advice, preferrably first hand experience. Thanks,
 

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I DONT OWN AN RSX ANYMORE
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609 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I was using a long torque wrench to get it out and had no luck even laying underneath and pushing with all my weight. Another problem is that its on the right side of the car (passenger) so in order to loosen it you have to either pull upwards or push up while laying down. Do you think its rusted or just on really tight?
 

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yut ughhh!!!
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18,068 Posts
could be even both. ive encountered this before and the solution i described above works best.. u need to knock it hard, but make sure u have a good hold on the bolt. if u want, u could even try loosening it up w/some wd-40 (but i try to stay away from taht)
 

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I DONT OWN AN RSX ANYMORE
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609 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Goddamn, I'm kind of scared of breaking the bolt inside the caliper but I suppose force is the only way to get it off. I thought those bolts were only supposed to be at like 50ft/lbs?
 

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yut ughhh!!!
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18,068 Posts
Goddamn, I'm kind of scared of breaking the bolt inside the caliper but I suppose force is the only way to get it off. I thought those bolts were only supposed to be at like 50ft/lbs?
u wont. as long as uve got a good hold on it like i said. and pipes work :thumbsup: :giggitygiggity:

i used an old exhaust tip coupled to a long ratchet to loosen the lugnuts on my ex's rusted altima before ^_^
 

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I was using a long torque wrench to get it out and had no luck even laying underneath and pushing with all my weight. Another problem is that its on the right side of the car (passenger) so in order to loosen it you have to either pull upwards or push up while laying down. Do you think its rusted or just on really tight?

hey dude try not to use a torque wrench for something like that. Could throw off the calibration and then it wont read proper:thumbsup:
 

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Name's Vic
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14,753 Posts
^^^^^^^^
Yup correct, like said before id use a breaker bar and a pipe if u need that much leverage, i did my break a long time ago but i cant remember if its threaded in the caliper or the bracket, either way if it breaks its fixable

Anything will feel like its tight if your in a cramped space and hae no leverage, u could use a gun and get it off in no time you know.
 
G

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Trust me: It will come loose. No judgement here, but I can't tell you how many times friends have told me, "Oh, it's too tight / I don't want to snap it/ blah, blah, blah...", then I crack it on the first try. When we first get into wrenching, we're all afraid of hurting our cars.

If this were aluminum, I would say that you should be careful, but it's a steel bolt going into cast iron. What I do on rusty/frozen stuff is shoot it with some PB Blaster or Liquid Wrench, let it sit for a bit, then put the breaker to it. I could put the torch to it or get my impact out (easier in cramped spaces or when you're under the car), but there has yet to be on bolt on my car that I haven't been able to crack with the 18" Craftsman breaker (haven't pulled the crank, though...).

Just man-up and it will come off. Good luck.
 

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Name's Vic
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14,753 Posts
steel bolt? idk man seems more aluminum then steel if anything, idk if the calipers are cast iron either the fronts are def aluminum ive compared weight with an aliminum caliper and a cast iron caliper

Ill have to check next time i do my brakes
 
G

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That could be right about the calipers being Alu (I have aftermarket fronts, so it's been a while). Anyway, we're on the same page: Motivated guy + breaker bar > caliper bolts.
 

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Another option to free up frozen bolts would be to apply some heat (since this is a brake caliper... DO NOT make it cherry red) to the bolt head and where the bolt threads into.... take a ball pean hammer and tap on the bolt head several times..... Then try turning the bolt with a box wrench...
This has worked for me.... when PB Blaster and KROIL have failed....
 

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I was using a long torque wrench to get it out and had no luck even laying underneath and pushing with all my weight. Another problem is that its on the right side of the car (passenger) so in order to loosen it you have to either pull upwards or push up while laying down. Do you think its rusted or just on really tight?
You're going to fuck up your wrench.
 

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I don't know you
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i always use a long fucking steel pipe from my hydraulic jacks. its like 4 feet long, lol. NO PROBLEMS with that. if you are worreid spray a little wd-40 on them.

The only other thing is sometimes people get confused about how the thread bolts in because it is not directly in front of you, so make sure youre not tightening it on accident.
 

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I DONT OWN AN RSX ANYMORE
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609 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Alright I got the bolt, and dont worry about the torque wrench I dont even use it for torquing anything, I bought it because it was like 5 dollars at a tool outlet place, I got the bolt off with it. Now I changed the front pads but I have sort of another problem, my jack dosent go high enough to jack the rear from the tow hook. I looked around for a frame rail or something to jack from but I cant find any in the rear. If I use some 2x4's can I jack from the bar that connects the rear wheels? It looks sturdy enough but I just want to make sure. BTW I'm not using the oem jack, but the reason I cant jack it high enough is because my car isnt lowered and the rear is already really high. Any help would be appreciated. Oh and thanks for help with the stuck bolt problem guys.
 

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Alright I got the bolt, and dont worry about the torque wrench I dont even use it for torquing anything, I bought it because it was like 5 dollars at a tool outlet place, I got the bolt off with it. Now I changed the front pads but I have sort of another problem, my jack dosent go high enough to jack the rear from the tow hook. I looked around for a frame rail or something to jack from but I cant find any in the rear. If I use some 2x4's can I jack from the bar that connects the rear wheels? It looks sturdy enough but I just want to make sure. BTW I'm not using the oem jack, but the reason I cant jack it high enough is because my car isnt lowered and the rear is already really high. Any help would be appreciated. Oh and thanks for help with the stuck bolt problem guys.
Yeah the rear sits very tarded high. What I did was get a bunch of big flat concrete things we had lying around, but I wouldn't recommend it.


All you have to do is jack up each side individually using the reinforced points right in front of the rear wheel well, on the side. It's not a problem to do the brakes individually. I had to jack up both sides cuz I was doing sways.
 
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