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Love ///My new car
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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Fixed problem by re-installing cams since the timing chain jumped. Thanks to all who helped.




READ THIS POST THEN SEE PAGE TWO POST ONE, datalogs loaded in post 33, but discovered that the MAP sensor is working, see post 78. I need help please.

So here is the back ground, I drive home one night with a stop along the way, no problems driving home, gas light came on and drove 5 miles on it. next morning since I park on a slant, the car doesn't start like its not getting fuel so I figure maybe I needed to dump a gallon in and go to a gas station. so I take a little can with my room mates car and put it in. still same behavior. I take and get one more gallon put that in and then the problem starts:

crank the car, it starts but idles like crap, barely climbing in rpm and after 5 seconds dies like i turned the key off. even if i kept my foot on the gas the rpm would barely hold at 3000k and dies after 5 secs still.

*no fuses blown under steering wheel or hood.

*kpro picked up a p0134 and a idle control valve error that both had been there since I put on the rbc, never hindered anything (had rbc since november). but no other error codes.

*reloaded .kal and even a different .kal and still no progress and now the codes are gone.

*one shop had it for 2.5 days and verified that fuel pressure is at 52psi and spark plugs are little fouled but ok, but couldn't make any progress with it so i towed it to the Honda dealership (no acura within an hr of here).

*Honda has had it since monday and they say they can't pick up any error codes or even recognize an ecu with their equipment/obdII tools.

*they replaced the MAP sensor with one that a guy was using for a swap and that didn't change anything.

* Mil flashes 5 times after turning the key to pos II and give it 15 sec of staying on
I'm clueless and so are they. They keep mentioning it being a "brain" thing, but even yesterday I could load .kals, turn the immobilizer back on and the car would just crank (key isn't flashed yet to match immobilizer) and turn the immobilizer back off and the problem was still there, the Display screen would show the tps angle and iat and all of the displays I had up, except i think the inj ml/s was in the red big time. but i don't think my ecu fried based on the things i can still do with it and the fact that while the car is rough it still starts.

I do have a s2000 start button that was wired exactly how KSMatic's guide is, but I suppose the ignition system wiring could be part of this.

I just don't know why this would happen over night?:confused::(

opinions needed please! I need to try my best to find out what this could be over the weekend before i give Honda the ok to go ahead and trouble shoot from the ground up at $80/hr.

rep for thoughts!
 

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Big Pimpin
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of course acura/honda can't recognize the ECU, it's not a stock ECU anymore. So don't specifically listen to them on that. You "could" send it back to hondata and have them check it if you really think it might be that. Other wise....sounds like an issue I had a few years back but when I would wipe the kal and reload one it would work fine for a while. I was throwin up a MAP error though at the time even though nothing was wrong with the MAP or the ECU. My problem ended up just going away for no reason.

Anyway...try to get an idle datalog or something and upload that so people can take a look.
 

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Sounds to me like some sort of vaccum leak, are you sure the RBC is tight and the gasket is new and installed properly. A vaccum leak especially in the intake area would definetly lead to these symptoms. The fact that it starts and then dies tells me that the ignition and fuel are getting in, its a possibility that you picked up some gunk in the bottom of your tank but thats unlikely cause it would have thrown your fuel psi off.

Its kinda hard to suggest things that the honda dealer i hope would have already checked, but i would start with checking all your connections around the IM including gaskets @ the head and TB.

Miles on car?
 

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Reset
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Make sure your bolts on the throttle body adapter are tight, one of mine came loose (just a tad bit) and it played bloody hell with my idle.

Also check your fuel rail, make sure it's clamped down as much as possible, when I installed my RBC that was a major issue for me and I had to tighten down the bolts way past the point where I thought it would crack the manifold...

Try spraying a small amount of starting fluid in your filter, you may have something clogging the injectors.

Good luck.

John
 

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Love ///My new car
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
of course acura/honda can't recognize the ECU, it's not a stock ECU anymore. So don't specifically listen to them on that. You "could" send it back to hondata and have them check it if you really think it might be that. Other wise....sounds like an issue I had a few years back but when I would wipe the kal and reload one it would work fine for a while. I was throwin up a MAP error though at the time even though nothing was wrong with the MAP or the ECU. My problem ended up just going away for no reason.

Anyway...try to get an idle datalog or something and upload that so people can take a look.
i grabbed a datalog last time I was over there, but i left my laptop incase they wanted to change something or if i wanted them to try something with a different .kal. I'll try to take a few and upload them tomorrow for anylsis. I'm hoping my problem just goes away especially since it just appeared out of nowhere.
 

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Love ///My new car
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Sounds to me like some sort of vaccum leak, are you sure the RBC is tight and the gasket is new and installed properly. A vaccum leak especially in the intake area would definetly lead to these symptoms. The fact that it starts and then dies tells me that the ignition and fuel are getting in, its a possibility that you picked up some gunk in the bottom of your tank but thats unlikely cause it would have thrown your fuel psi off.

Its kinda hard to suggest things that the honda dealer i hope would have already checked, but i would start with checking all your connections around the IM including gaskets @ the head and TB.

Miles on car?
Miles are 93K.

Checked all the connections to tb sensors and injectors, spark coils, etc. the gasket is a hondata img, the mani is still solid on the block, same with tb to mani. I've had funny idles due to vacuum leaks in the past but nothing like this. still worth double checking but i think something this catastrophic/sudden feels like a gliche or a component that got dropped when i started the car one morning, just like a light bulb eventually goes out, hmmmm.
 

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Love ///My new car
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Make sure your bolts on the throttle body adapter are tight, one of mine came loose (just a tad bit) and it played bloody hell with my idle.

Also check your fuel rail, make sure it's clamped down as much as possible, when I installed my RBC that was a major issue for me and I had to tighten down the bolts way past the point where I thought it would crack the manifold...

Try spraying a small amount of starting fluid in your filter, you may have something clogging the injectors.

Good luck.

John
clogged injectors is a good place to look that I hadn't yet, especially since the strength of the idle has dropped since when the first problem occurred. last time i cranked it barely broke 300rpm before dying. maybe that explains the reading in kpro for the injectors being really RED vs green for everything else.
 

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Love ///My new car
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
injectors are starting to seem like a place to look at next..... since the car might have been low enough on fuel when i parked, if the fuel filter could only access gunk and some how thru alllllll of my try to starts between checking components, its plausible some crap made its way all the way up there.

Kevin what do you think about that? idle is barely above 300rpm at this point.
 

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Big Pimpin
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Sounds to me like some sort of vaccum leak, are you sure the RBC is tight and the gasket is new and installed properly. A vaccum leak especially in the intake area would definetly lead to these symptoms. The fact that it starts and then dies tells me that the ignition and fuel are getting in, its a possibility that you picked up some gunk in the bottom of your tank but thats unlikely cause it would have thrown your fuel psi off.

Its kinda hard to suggest things that the honda dealer i hope would have already checked, but i would start with checking all your connections around the IM including gaskets @ the head and TB.

Miles on car?
vacuum leak would cause a surge, not kill the motor. The OTHER way would be true though, if there was a plugged vacuum line then you'd get shitty idle and it would die.
 

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Big Pimpin
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i grabbed a datalog last time I was over there, but i left my laptop incase they wanted to change something or if i wanted them to try something with a different .kal. I'll try to take a few and upload them tomorrow for anylsis. I'm hoping my problem just goes away especially since it just appeared out of nowhere.
Kinda like mine. I did an entire cross country trip with no problems, about 2 days after I show up at my destination, car starts acting up.

injectors are starting to seem like a place to look at next..... since the car might have been low enough on fuel when i parked, if the fuel filter could only access gunk and some how thru alllllll of my try to starts between checking components, its plausible some crap made its way all the way up there.

Kevin what do you think about that? idle is barely above 300rpm at this point.
It would be a good place to start, really. Makes sense to me, too. plus to start with the small things is always a good way. You can try an injector cleaner if you'd like or get that service done where they feed the cleaner and carb blaster shit directly into your car. Or just straight up replace your injectors if you'd like (maybe look into RDX injectors).
 

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Love ///My new car
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
It would be a good place to start, really. Makes sense to me, too. plus to start with the small things is always a good way. You can try an injector cleaner if you'd like or get that service done where they feed the cleaner and carb blaster shit directly into your car. Or just straight up replace your injectors if you'd like (maybe look into RDX injectors).
thought about rdx injectors, i'd need to get retuned with those though right? don't have a dyno or tuner close to where I live, I'd hate to drive 200 miles to get a tune getting crappy gas mileage.
 

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Love ///My new car
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Oh crap I forgot to mention this!

when I went by Honda the first time, I reset the ecu to see if that would show me any error codes, it didn't, but I watched the MIL light stay on for 15 secs and then flash 5 times....

wonder how that ties into what we've said. I couldn't figure out where in the 1400+ pages in the helms 5 flashes meant in the few minutes I was at the dealership and I've been offline since this happened last wednesday, thus no thread til today.
 

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So here is the back ground, I drive home one night with a stop along the way, no problems driving home, gas light came on and drove 5 miles on it. next morning since I park on a slant, the car doesn't start like its not getting fuel so I figure maybe I needed to dump a gallon in and go to a gas station. so I take a little can with my room mates car and put it in. still same behavior. I take and get one more gallon put that in and then the problem starts:

crank the car, it starts but idles like crap, barely climbing in rpm and after 5 seconds dies like i turned the key off. even if i kept my foot on the gas the rpm would barely hold at 3000k and dies after 5 secs still.

*no fuses blown under steering wheel or hood.

*kpro picked up a p0134 and a idle control valve error that both had been there since I put on the rbc, never hindered anything (had rbc since november). but no other error codes.

*reloaded .kal and even a different .kal and still no progress and now the codes are gone.

*one shop had it for 2.5 days and verified that fuel pressure is at 52psi and spark plugs are little fouled but ok, but couldn't make any progress with it so i towed it to the Honda dealership (no acura within an hr of here).

*Honda has had it since monday and they say they can't pick up any error codes or even recognize an ecu with their equipment/obdII tools.

*they replaced the MAP sensor with one that a guy was using for a swap and that didn't change anything.

I'm clueless and so are they. They keep mentioning it being a "brain" thing, but even yesterday I could load .kals, turn the immobilizer back on and the car would just crank (key isn't flashed yet to match immobilizer) and turn the immobilizer back off and the problem was still there, the Display screen would show the tps angle and iat and all of the displays I had up, except i think the inj ml/s was in the red big time. but i don't think my ecu fried based on the things i can still do with it and the fact that while the car is rough it still starts.

I do have a s2000 start button that was wired exactly how KSMatic's guide is, but I suppose the ignition system wiring could be part of this.

I just don't know why this would happen over night?:confused::(

opinions needed please! I need to try my best to find out what this could be over the weekend before i give Honda the ok to go ahead and trouble shoot from the ground up at $80/hr.

rep for thoughts!
Don't run your car with such a low fuel level. It allows the fuel in the bottom of the tank to mix with the sediment there and become turbid fuel. It's not something that happens all the time, yet, it's not uncommon. You prolly just got your injectors clogged up with crap which isn't allowing fuel to flow adequately. Remove them and clean them then try it again.
 

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Big Pimpin
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thought about rdx injectors, i'd need to get retuned with those though right? don't have a dyno or tuner close to where I live, I'd hate to drive 200 miles to get a tune getting crappy gas mileage.
No, just adjust the CC's in kpro to 410 and you're set.

Oh crap I forgot to mention this!

when I went by Honda the first time, I reset the ecu to see if that would show me any error codes, it didn't, but I watched the MIL light stay on for 15 secs and then flash 5 times....

wonder how that ties into what we've said. I couldn't figure out where in the 1400+ pages in the helms 5 flashes meant in the few minutes I was at the dealership and I've been offline since this happened last wednesday, thus no thread til today.
Generally a flashing MIL indicates a misfire.
 

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Love ///My new car
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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
No, just adjust the CC's in kpro to 410 and you're set.



Generally a flashing MIL indicates a misfire.
ahhh, gracious! guess injectors are priority #1, i'll see if mine are salvagable b4 grabbing rdx.
 

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Big Pimpin
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ahhh, gracious! guess injectors are priority #1, i'll see if mine are salvagable b4 grabbing rdx.
Sure. But just keep in mind, generally doesn't mean always. and misfires could be a number of things, not just injectors. though in your case it seems likely. I don't know why the MIL would stay on for so long and then flash though, but it does seem to me it's indicating misfires of some sort.
 

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Love ///My new car
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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Sure. But just keep in mind, generally doesn't mean always. and misfires could be a number of things, not just injectors. though in your case it seems likely. I don't know why the MIL would stay on for so long and then flash though, but it does seem to me it's indicating misfires of some sort.
the helms said that if you turn the key to pos II the mil will stay on for 15-20 and either turn off or flash to give a code, this is when your not starting the car that is.

I'm gunna tell Honda that I'll give them 1 labor hour to check the fuel rail and injectors, then trouble shoot any other linked components to a misfire and if they don't find something, I'm gunna tow it home and poke around, there's been too much down time with them and now that I'm back in town, I should be able to handle this :pray:
 
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