well my friend kinda had something just like this with his car. he changed out his clutch and notcied his flywheel was warped.
Car shuddering like crazy
Hi, I've been having this issue for a year or so but basically when starting out in 1st gear or low RPMs in second gear and also in reverse the car shudders pretty badly. If i'm trying to hold a constant throttle in 1st gear at like 1500 RPM the whole car will start shaking and its embarassing. I know how to drive a stick so please don't say it's a driver issue. My 5 speed '87 toyota MR2 was smoother than my car rn. Also, usually in reverse if I just ease off the clutch the car will have a smooth and strong reverse, however now if I ease off the clutch without giving gas it shakes like CRAZY. And when i do give gas it's a little smoother but still jerks. In 1st gear when i'm starting out i have to give a good amount of gas 2k+ RPMs in order to get a decent start without too much shaking however it feels as if the car is hesitating or resisting (almost like clutch not fully released). I usually end up just clutching and going to 2nd when i feel the resistance but when I pop it into 2nd and ease off the gas the car feels like it launches forward so it's a really rough ride. These issues also make going up an incline extremely difficult because the car will either shake like crazy if i hold a constant throttle or it'll lunge forward and make me look dumb. Thing's i've had changed already are new clutch (exedy oem & resurfaced flywheel) and all 4 motor mounts with OEM parts. Also my garage stinks of gas fumes too because of my car. Please help thanks!! Forgot to add: car is an 05 type S with 129k miles and the only mod is an SRI. I don't have a check engine light either
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Could be your axles or mounts too
Bumping this thread...
Tried to PM the OP but his inbox was full
I am having the exact same issue and started experiencing the same problem after replacing the stock clutch and flywheel with an Exedy OEM replacement kit and Fidanza Lightweight flywheel. I never had the issue when driving before as I know how the car responded to my driving habits just like you so I know it's not a driver error issue. I have replaced all mounts but the front mount with Innovate 60A mounts. I am wondering what you did to address or fix the issue?
I have checked everything and I know the axles are fine. T-bracket doesn't seem to be cracked and none of the subframe mount bracket welds are broken. The only possibility is the front mount is torn. Would the front mount alone being torn cause such violent shaking from the engine bay? Reverse is HORRIBLE. It should be noted that the juddering and issue seemed to be slightly remedied by the Innovate mounts.
Tried to PM the OP but his inbox was full
I am having the exact same issue and started experiencing the same problem after replacing the stock clutch and flywheel with an Exedy OEM replacement kit and Fidanza Lightweight flywheel. I never had the issue when driving before as I know how the car responded to my driving habits just like you so I know it's not a driver error issue. I have replaced all mounts but the front mount with Innovate 60A mounts. I am wondering what you did to address or fix the issue?
I have checked everything and I know the axles are fine. T-bracket doesn't seem to be cracked and none of the subframe mount bracket welds are broken. The only possibility is the front mount is torn. Would the front mount alone being torn cause such violent shaking from the engine bay? Reverse is HORRIBLE. It should be noted that the juddering and issue seemed to be slightly remedied by the Innovate mounts.
I was thinking flywheel too, because that is that major thing you just changed. Or not torqued down properly. Or clutch pressure plate screws backed out (should use locktite since it's only like 16ftlbs er something)well my friend kinda had something just like this with his car. he changed out his clutch and notcied his flywheel was warped.
Also, yeah I thought it was the front mount that was most important of the two fore and aft, no? Definitely could cause your problem without an OEM flywheel to quell everything
So I pulled the trans for the THIRD time and left the Fidanza lightweight flywheel, but replaced the new clutch and pressure plate with the half spanked one from before the first job just to see. Well, it runs normal now. I guess something I did during the initial install of the replacement clutch that contaminated the clutch disk. If anyone experiences this violent shuddering effect please consider the possibility that you might have contaminated the clutch disk (not PP) with oil or grease during install even if you are careful. Never be too careful, wear gloves, after installing flywheel spray it with brake cleaner, spray PP off and mount clutch. DO NOT TOUCH WITH BARE HANDS!! The contaminated clutch will skip and hop against the flywheel and give violent harmonics that will eventually destroy your trans input shaft. Hard learning experience.
Bummer :sigh:. What sucks even more is can you even be sure that was the problem? Like did you see oil/grease on the clutch disk? I'm just wondering if it's parts or installing (not knocking you AT ALL cuz you've done it 3x so you know how) like if it didn't seat correctly or what. Did you keep the pilot bushing the same or replace each time too? Thanks for the update
No, I can't. The clutch disk and PP looked fine. Aside from side very slight streaking (chatter) on the PP, they both looked normal. The cushion plate between the two friction faces of the clutch looked normal (just like the old clutch I ended up putting in). The old pilot bearing was toast, installed new one from Exedy kit and greased it.
Each time I pulled the transmission and what I did are listed below:
1. Initial pull, had stock flywheel resurfaced (machine shop man said it looked worked before and that it might need shims, I disregarded his advice sadly), installed both the resurfaced flywheel and a new Exedy OEM Replacement clutch kit. Flywheel torqued to 90 lbft, PP to 19 lbft, clutch alignment tool slid out easily as it should.
Violent Chatter/Judder extremely noticeable, broke in clutch for 750 miles hoping it would go away. Installed Innovate 60A engine kit, left ripped stock front mount in, possible reason for reverse chatter/judder being significantly worse.
2. Installed new Fidanza lightweight flywheel, re-installed Exedy OEM Replacement, same torque specs. Still the same horrible chattering. Reverse still horrible, violent shaking from engine bay.
3. Kept Fidanza lightweight flywheel, installed the old PP and clutch disk from before the initial job. Problem solved.
The only possibilities of what went wrong were:
The clutch disk was contaminated
The clutch disk was installed incorrectly
The clutch disk was warped/defective upon delivery
The pressure plate was not sufficiently cleaned off
I only initially pulled the transmission due to the fact that the throw out bearing was squeaking horribly when clutching in and upon tear down the bearing was toast. When turning it by hand the bearing was gritty and bumpy, not smooth and constant like the OEM Honda replacement. Also, I'm glad I caught it when I did because upon inspection of the PP after the first transmission pull I could see the ring where the TOB pushed in on the diaphragm springs and was wearing it away drastically.
I hope this information is helpful.
Each time I pulled the transmission and what I did are listed below:
1. Initial pull, had stock flywheel resurfaced (machine shop man said it looked worked before and that it might need shims, I disregarded his advice sadly), installed both the resurfaced flywheel and a new Exedy OEM Replacement clutch kit. Flywheel torqued to 90 lbft, PP to 19 lbft, clutch alignment tool slid out easily as it should.
Violent Chatter/Judder extremely noticeable, broke in clutch for 750 miles hoping it would go away. Installed Innovate 60A engine kit, left ripped stock front mount in, possible reason for reverse chatter/judder being significantly worse.
2. Installed new Fidanza lightweight flywheel, re-installed Exedy OEM Replacement, same torque specs. Still the same horrible chattering. Reverse still horrible, violent shaking from engine bay.
3. Kept Fidanza lightweight flywheel, installed the old PP and clutch disk from before the initial job. Problem solved.
The only possibilities of what went wrong were:
The clutch disk was contaminated
The clutch disk was installed incorrectly
The clutch disk was warped/defective upon delivery
The pressure plate was not sufficiently cleaned off
I only initially pulled the transmission due to the fact that the throw out bearing was squeaking horribly when clutching in and upon tear down the bearing was toast. When turning it by hand the bearing was gritty and bumpy, not smooth and constant like the OEM Honda replacement. Also, I'm glad I caught it when I did because upon inspection of the PP after the first transmission pull I could see the ring where the TOB pushed in on the diaphragm springs and was wearing it away drastically.
I hope this information is helpful.
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