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What do you mean running weird?

What are your mods?

To be completely honest it looks a little lean

its a base isnt it?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Yes k20a3.Mods are:DCsports ceramic race header,Cold air intake,and AEM Fuel rail on the HighOctane kal.
When im driving regular under 4000rpms the throtle isint responsive, ive also has the car turn of on all of a sudden like it didnt have gas even though i was leaving the gas station,also when driving around the car would want to stall shaking violently and when flooring it at high revolutions the car hesitates :/

And yes the car was already warmed up
 

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You need to be datalogging when those things happen, if you're not then I cant see whats wrong with it from a datalog where nothing happens.

It looks completely normal, other than being a bit on the lean side.
 

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142 is not a normal water temperature when motor is fully warmed up, should be 180-195. Since you have a cai your air temperature (IAT) should be very close to the outside air temp, lowest IAT was 91. At 90 degrees motor should warm up to at least 180 in less than 5 min. Don't no if temp is real or not, but the ecu thinks it is and runs in warmup mode. Maybe that's why the idle speed is 1050. Check your coolant level, check water temp gauge is it low ?
 

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The primary o2 sensor is adding a lot of fuel to help maintain stoich(normal) operation.

Your car is pretty lean, you need to get it tuned.

Also, as others have said, your ECT is pretty low. Check your coolant level and make sure there is no air bubbles in the system, etc. Your ECT sensor may even be shot.
 

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142 is not a normal water temperature when motor is fully warmed up, should be 180-195. Since you have a cai your air temperature (IAT) should be very close to the outside air temp, lowest IAT was 91. At 90 degrees motor should warm up to at least 180 in less than 5 min. Don't no if temp is real or not, but the ecu thinks it is and runs in warmup mode. Maybe that's why the idle speed is 1050. Check your coolant level, check water temp gauge is it low ?
I totally forgot to look at ECT :face:
 

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Discussion Starter #12
142 is not a normal water temperature when motor is fully warmed up, should be 180-195. Since you have a cai your air temperature (IAT) should be very close to the outside air temp, lowest IAT was 91. At 90 degrees motor should warm up to at least 180 in less than 5 min. Don't no if temp is real or not, but the ecu thinks it is and runs in warmup mode. Maybe that's why the idle speed is 1050. Check your coolant level, check water temp gauge is it low ?
Ill check, could removing the Thermal vaccum bypass valve be what causes it not to warm up right?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
You need to be datalogging when those things happen, if you're not then I cant see whats wrong with it from a datalog where nothing happens.

It looks completely normal, other than being a bit on the lean side.
It does these things once in a while and i dont own a laptop so its kinda hard to catch it on the datalog, is the lean safe enough?
 

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It does these things once in a while and i dont own a laptop so its kinda hard to catch it on the datalog, is the lean safe enough?
its not going to kill you now but its causing wear that isnt necessary... get a tune
 

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Ill check, could removing the Thermal vaccum bypass valve be what causes it not to warm up right?
I know it has some thermal valves but, I never heard of a thermal vaccum bypass valve, can't find that name in the manual. It is probably in the same area as the ect sensor. Maybe you damaged the wires or the plug to the sensor. What else did you remove ? Sorry but got ask you this, did you remove the thermostat ? Don't worry about cal right now, the A/F in my datalog looks like yours until motor is warmed up. Can't calibrate until the motor is warmed up anyway. Fix the warmup problem first. Find out if the ECT temp is real or a sensor error. You could measure the water temp.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I know it has some thermal valves but, I never heard of a thermal vaccum bypass valve, can't find that name in the manual. It is probably in the same area as the ect sensor. Maybe you damaged the wires or the plug to the sensor. What else did you remove ? Sorry but got ask you this, did you remove the thermostat ? Don't worry about cal right now, the A/F in my datalog looks like yours until motor is warmed up. Can't calibrate until the motor is warmed up anyway. Fix the warmup problem first. Find out if the ECT temp is real or a sensor error. You could measure the water temp.
Thats the only part ive removed, supposely it doesnt do much and the thermostat is still there. Well as for the temperature could the fan being on all the time be wats causing the temp to stay that low?(I got a EK with the Rsx base engine swaped into it and making the fan turn on depending on the temperature would cost a little more so they decided to just connect it directly to the switch)
 

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Thats the only part ive removed, supposely it doesnt do much and the thermostat is still there. Well as for the temperature could the fan being on all the time be wats causing the temp to stay that low?(I got a EK with the Rsx base engine swaped into it and making the fan turn on depending on the temperature would cost a little more so they decided to just connect it directly to the switch)
Turn the fan off and find out. The fan does cool it down pretty fast. Rethought your calibration, It is running very lean in some places. If you have to drive like this, post your cal and I'll make a temporary
one that is safer. It won't be pretty.
 

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From the manual:

Intake Air Bypass Thermal valve
When engine is running during warm up, the intake
air bypass control thermal valve sends air to the injectors.

Honda thinks it needs it during warm up. Not having one would effect the A/F during warm up. In this case warm up is all the time. Maybe that's what messes up your A/F. You need the fan switch. Don't understand why it's a big deal to hook up.
 
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