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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
whats up. i've never waxed my car before, so bare with me. i've got black dots on the trunk, roof, and hood, which i think are from a huge fire down the street from me a few weeks ago. i didn't think they would embed themselves the way they have into my clearcoat/paint.

i'd like to wash, clay bar that crap off, then use the nxt. how does that sound to you guys? if i just use the clay bar and don't follow it up w/ anything, it's kind of a waste right? please note i've never applied any wax before.

thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
thanks, i'll give it a shot. good tip on leaving it wet after the first wash.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
haven't tried yet, but am i missing any other prep steps for the nxt? i keep reading about prepping before applying it.
 

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Frosty said:
Sounds like a good plan to me.
Wash before you claybar to get all the easy stuff, then wash after to get any clay residue. I usually don't dry after the first wash since it'll make it easier to glide the claybar.
Definitely dry. Water is not an acceptable lube for the clay. Only use the included spray lube.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
i thought i would use both the lube and water, but now that i think about it, that would just dilute the lube.
 

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Silver Mule said:
Definitely dry. Water is not an acceptable lube for the clay. Only use the included spray lube.
I use the spray lube too, and I let it air dry for a few minutes.
But water is a lubricant in itself... so lube + more lube can't be too bad. I find it helps a lot because many of those quick detailer lubes they recommend dry too fast and leave a funny haze if they dry, the water reduces it.
Obviously I agree to the extent of: don't use water as the sole lubricant, that would be bad. :D
 

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good info
 

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this is how i clay bar my car.
usually i'll wash my car with the sponge in one hand, and the clay bar in the other.
this makes claying the car so much easier. Water does a well enough job as a lubricant. imagine how long it takes to take that little bottle over your entire car.
then imagine doing that every 2-3 months. save some time, and wash and clay at once. and you must wax afterwards because the clar bar can strip wax off your car.
 

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sorry for the dumb question, but im a noob in claybaring and never dont it before...it also doesnt help that i lost the instructions that came with it...i know im suppose to spray the lube on and then glide the bar lightly back and forth, but what do i do after im done with that section...am i suppose to throw away the part of the clay bar I jus used :dontknow:
 

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RSXTypeS23 said:
sorry for the dumb question, but im a noob in claybaring and never dont it before...it also doesnt help that i lost the instructions that came with it...i know im suppose to spray the lube on and then glide the bar lightly back and forth, but what do i do after im done with that section...am i suppose to throw away the part of the clay bar I jus used :dontknow:
Once it starts to get dirty, you fold it and knead it until a clean surface is exposed.

Once the whole bar is icky, you toss is. Some of the larger bars will last 4-5 whole cars depending on how much crap you get off.
 

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Frosty said:
I use the spray lube too, and I let it air dry for a few minutes.
But water is a lubricant in itself... so lube + more lube can't be too bad. I find it helps a lot because many of those quick detailer lubes they recommend dry too fast and leave a funny haze if they dry, the water reduces it.
Obviously I agree to the extent of: don't use water as the sole lubricant, that would be bad. :D
The directions on Mothers Clay bar specifically says NOT to use water. And I agree. Water is not a lubricant. Certainly not on the level that the detailer that is included is. If you clay with water/lube mix and are happy with it, fine. But it's really poor form to recommend that technique on a forum with noobs when it's incorrect and potentially could increase the chances of scratching. Bad Frosty.
 

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Silver Mule said:
The directions on Mothers Clay bar specifically says NOT to use water. And I agree. Water is not a lubricant. Certainly not on the level that the detailer that is included is. If you clay with water/lube mix and are happy with it, fine. But it's really poor form to recommend that technique on a forum with noobs when it's incorrect and potentially could increase the chances of scratching. Bad Frosty.
Here is how a clay every car, been doing it this way for years, never had a problem.

Wash car

leave wet

mix up new bucket of suds, I add a little more soap than usual for extra lubrication. I like to use meguiars #00 wash here because it is a high lubricity, low sudsing wash. I find that the low sudsing nature of the wash allows me to see what I am doing while claying.

tear off 1/4 of a clay bar

use mitt to distribute the wash solution to a panel

clay the panel

rinse section

continue until the entire car is clayed

I find that this is much quicker than using the detail spray, not to mention a lot cheaper. Again never had a problem, whatsoever.
 

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ive always clayed cars wet . . .
it just makes the most sense - although I am using a soap/water mix as a lube, so it dont matter.

personally - im not comfy using one of them "spray detailers" - i prefer the clickness of a good soap, and mine might not be meguiars - but that dont matter . . .

the wetter, the better . . . IMHO
 

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Frosty said:
Once it starts to get dirty, you fold it and knead it until a clean surface is exposed.

Once the whole bar is icky, you toss is. Some of the larger bars will last 4-5 whole cars depending on how much crap you get off.
thanks frosty!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
thanks for the tips everybody, i'm going to try today since it's in the 50's for a change.
 

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man how do you live! i've lived in socal my whole life and it has been near 90 degrees here for the past week. 50 for a change :nervous:

oh yeah thanks frosty
 
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