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Discussion Starter #1
Trying to get some input from people who have experience with k20a3 motors that have a JRSC, street or race and are looking to upgrade their clutch.

This is actually for my EP3 but I can't seem to get any real input or response, mainly due to the limited year of the car and that there isn't very many left. The base RSX had the K20a3 so it should be the same.

I've got 100k now on the car, just re-built the JRSC, just using the power card still and a cat back. I was looking at Exedy Stage 1 clutch but noticed you have to use their HF02 flywheel which is 8.9 lbs, my flywheel is 14lbs. At first I thought it would be a good idea till I learned from various forums that drivability suffers, and you have issues getting up hills from a stop, starting the car etc.

The ep3 Type-R supposedly has a 11lb flywheel which seems to be like splitting hairs at this point 11/14lbs but the options are limited but if I want to upgrade my clutch for my current setup I have to get a DC5 / RSX-S flywheel but they are all lightweight flywheels of varying weights, amazon and ebay are full of weird knockoffs.

I just DD with it, no drag racing, though on PM commutes it's a mad dash to get to the highway first so some "spirited" driving M-F usually happens.

Could I just use my OEM clutch/flywheel again, think the 200hp max I may be putting down out of my EP3 would suffice?
 

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05 Type S RH Reflash LSD
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Since you're getting no love, just thought I'd pipe in to say I have the 11lb lightweight (not ultra-lightweight) flywheel and chose that one for the very reason you mentioned -- it's similar to the Type R (10.4lbs or something). It is good for daily driving, but does make traffic more annoying.

However, I thought I remember seeing that people with SC's tend to go with OEM weight flywheels? I could be wrong, as I have no experience with any forced induction whatsoever.
 

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From what I read most people like the 11lb over the 9lb flywheel. The 9lb is too aggressive because the rev drop more quickly and makes it tricky for daily. I would stick with Exedy, Competition Clutch, or Clutchmasters for brands. Cant you use the Exedy Stage 1 with a different flywheel like OEM or the Type R?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the replies! I researched countless threads till I came across one by Scuffers who mentioned he and others are using 08806 across the pond and seeing that my oem clutch would slip even with the 5lb, it made a bit more sense for a few bucks more to source a flywheel that would allow for RSX-S clutches.

The difference between buying a used RSX-S flywheel and cost to resurface was so close to a DC5 ITR OEM flywheel I opted to go that route as it was already resurfaced.

Curious to see how much a 3-4 lb difference actually makes. Thanks again for the input now just have to wait for parts to arrive to get the whole thing back together.
 

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Past Driver’s Ed
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For a daily driver I recommend a 11lb flywheel - it has worked well for me. Although I have a stage 4 clutch, most engine builds can get by with less. The stage 4 is a pain in the butt when driving in stop and go traffic.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Side note though a co-worker was mentioning to me about the ECU not adjusting to the lightened flywheel and having to get it re-tuned. I got a chuckle out of that
 

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Well I guess it adds hp to your car too so you need a retune, jk. You need a retune and retune is good. If I say retune enough you might think you need a retune lol.
 

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I'm running the DC5-R flywheel and it works well for my build (220hp NA).

I highly recommend you NOT go any lighter with forced induction.
 

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Vaginal Lubrication Tech
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I'm running the DC5-R flywheel and it works well for my build (220hp NA).

I highly recommend you NOT go any lighter with forced induction.

Fuck tht, go lighter with forced induction.

I have had CM fx400 and a Fidanza 8 lb fllywheel for the last 5yrs, they kick it with the turbo so he doesn't get lonely. The flywheel has never been anything but awesome.


I take it you have never had any kind of contact with one of these. Its a FX600, the whole thing is light as fck. The flywheel is about half the weight of yours.
The only cars that need a clutch like this, are the ones with boost.





I say lighter is better with FI.



The masters of the clutches agrees



----------------------------------


honda says: ah, you no sir face fi wheel




not a problem if you have a light weight Aluminum flywheel with removable friction ring..



so i
 

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I just DD with it, no drag racing, though on PM commutes it's a mad dash to get to the highway first so some "spirited" driving M-F usually happens.
Fuck tht...
I say lighter is better with FI.
First of all, OP wants his car to be driveable on a daily basis. It's common knowledge, dustyboner, that unless the owner's goal is to build a dedicated track car, he/she shouldn't use such a lightweight flywheel.

Secondly, the K20 is a high revving engine that needs to be able to cleanly put power to the ground while maintaining 6000+ RPM. The ultra-light flywheels you're so fond of aren't ideal since the engine will pass through the power band way too quickly and cause loss of traction.

OP, ultimately it's your choice but be sure to do your own research and avoid generic schools of thought when it comes to your car. Good luck.
 

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NA Today
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First of all, OP wants his car to be driveable on a daily basis. It's common knowledge, dustyboner, that unless the owner's goal is to build a dedicated track car, he/she shouldn't use such a lightweight flywheel.

Secondly, the K20 is a high revving engine that needs to be able to cleanly put power to the ground while maintaining 6000+ RPM. The ultra-light flywheels you're so fond of aren't ideal since the engine will pass through the power band way too quickly and cause loss of traction.

OP, ultimately it's your choice but be sure to do your own research and avoid generic schools of thought when it comes to your car. Good luck.
Uhhh I think the power from boost will be by and large the main factor contributing to passing "through the power band way too quickly and causing loss of traction."

But you have a point about ultra lightweight flywheels not being the best if you want comfortable drivability
 

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What I didn't know you're not suppose to resurface the OEM flywheel, did it several times already and VTEC still kicks in yo.
 

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05 Type S RH Reflash LSD
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Sounds like Honda/Acura mechanics aren't supposed to resurface the flywheel, but that doesn't mean it can't be done. I remember seeing an EricTheCarGuy video where he did it by hand with a drill or some circular/orbital tool.

I would be skeptical to that box's claims that a lighter flywheel reduces turbo lag, unless I guess if by virtue of it climbing in rpms faster then yes. Just seems like tricky marketing.

BTW OP, it is more than a drop of 3-4lbs, because I've seen people report the stock flywheel is as much as 16lbs! It really does make a difference
 

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What I didn't know you're not suppose to resurface the OEM flywheel, did it several times already and VTEC still kicks in yo.
Lol

Sounds like Honda/Acura mechanics aren't supposed to resurface the flywheel, but that doesn't mean it can't be done. I remember seeing an EricTheCarGuy video where he did it by hand with a drill or some circular/orbital tool.

I would be skeptical to that box's claims that a lighter flywheel reduces turbo lag, unless I guess if by virtue of it climbing in rpms faster then yes. Just seems like tricky marketing.

BTW OP, it is more than a drop of 3-4lbs, because I've seen people report the stock flywheel is as much as 16lbs! It really does make a difference
If it says it in the service manual we should be adhering to that too. I wonder why they don't recommend it though. I did it and my clutch seems to be fine. On other Honda forums it seems like people have better results when they do resurface it. I wonder if that recommendation is only for K series?
 

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Vaginal Lubrication Tech
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so i take it none of you have actually driven a car with a forced induction/ lightweight flywheel setup for any extended amount of time.

all the driveability problems are easily fixed by simply increasing your idle speed in kpro.

i have mine set to 825 rpms (k24), with a k20 it will need to be higher because of less torque.

unless someone else with personal experience on this subject has something to add, im not gonna waste any more of my time.

===================

i talked to my homie who works at a machine shop about the flywheel resurfacing. He said he would check at work tomorrow and what kinda specs they had on it.
 

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light flywheel

9 years of driving around supercharged with 8.5LB flywheel. Went through 3 clutches
FX300, Spec 2.5 and stage 3 Comp clutch(2.4L now). All with resurface 8.5LB chromolly flywheel.
I am very easy on clutch, got over 65000 miles on each clutch except the stage 3 comp clutch as I have the 2.4L bottom end.
Currently, running 2005 Civic Type S stage 3 Comp Clutch with Kevlar. Comes with 16LB flywheel. It is way better in Rush hour traffic, easier to predict clamp point.

Light flywheel is great and fun but you spin and chirp the tires without thinking taking off. Its like a horse that wants to get up and go go go.
Stock clutch Type S is 16LB, measure it and I still have it.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I appreciate everyone's input. I opted for a EP3 Type-R flywheel and the Exedy Stage 1 clutch which is organic but claims to have a bit more grab while retaining OEM feel.

I went ahead and ordered replacement OEM CMC and slave cylinders as well then stumbled across the Ktuned CMC which removes the "feedback plate" and is said to remove any delay when engaging and disengaging the clutch.

Could be snake oil, I couldn't really tell from digging around on it if it's a good thing or not or if OEM will suffice considering the clutch isn't much of an upgrade as far as pressure plate strength is concerned.
 

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Past Driver’s Ed
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I appreciate everyone's input. I opted for a EP3 Type-R flywheel and the Exedy Stage 1 clutch which is organic but claims to have a bit more grab while retaining OEM feel.

I went ahead and ordered replacement OEM CMC and slave cylinders as well then stumbled across the Ktuned CMC which removes the "feedback plate" and is said to remove any delay when engaging and disengaging the clutch.

Could be snake oil, I couldn't really tell from digging around on it if it's a good thing or not or if OEM will suffice considering the clutch isn't much of an upgrade as far as pressure plate strength is concerned.
I think you made a good choice. Remember to take forum postings with a grain of salt. Not uncommon to find more marketing hype than technical reasoning to justify the need for aftermarket hardware. Like everyone needing coilover suspension, 3” exhaust systems, large ass throttle bodies, 1200cc fuel injectors, and so on. My 02 RSX still has its original master clutch & slave cylinders now paired with a stage 4 clutch and guess what - they’re working well without issues. My engine build has a aftercooled supercharger (10.7 psi boost) running on E85 using just stock motor mounts with the cheap $35 inserts and I don’t have any issues with wheel hop. What's important is to have a balanced system whether its the suspension, drivetrain, or engine components.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I think you made a good choice. Remember to take forum postings with a grain of salt. Not uncommon to find more marketing hype than technical reasoning to justify the need for aftermarket hardware. Like everyone needing coilover suspension, 3” exhaust systems, large ass throttle bodies, 1200cc fuel injectors, and so on. My 02 RSX still has its original master clutch & slave cylinders now paired with a stage 4 clutch and guess what - they’re working well without issues. My engine build has a aftercooled supercharger (10.7 psi boost) running on E85 using just stock motor mounts with the cheap $35 inserts and I don’t have any issues with wheel hop. What's important is to have a balanced system whether its the suspension, drivetrain, or engine components.
It certainly is becoming difficult to find credible information or well informed enthusiasts now for our cars given their age. I had the Mrs press the clutch pedal fast or slow and I watched the clutch fork disengage the clutch, to the naked eye, at roughly the same intervals on a separate occasion prior to me investigating the CDV (clutch delay valve), or aftermarket CMC and slave cylinders. I think for the most part I want to ensure that after the job is wrapped up, I don't have to think about it or second guess on parts choices, especially if the CDV was said to be the cause of clutch slipping (though never substantiated with any definitive proof).

I'd like to believe that the EP3 and ITR/RSX owners in the UK are not having issues like this as their CMC/Slave's are the same, I don't find much in the way of posts or issues across the pond for "issues" such as this which has me leaning more towards a mod that isn't really necessary to do.
 
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