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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi guys, this site has helped me save alot of money over the last 2 years doing routine maintenance stuff, so I figured I would give back a little. If you do a search for Serpentine belt removal, you'll see alot of guides come up none of them are very comprehensive......so here is the complete guide to replacing your serpentine belt.

First I'd like to clear up a few myths that I've been seeing posted on other install threads:


1. You DO NOT need to take off your motor mount. With the serpentine belt removal tool, and a little patience, you don't need to touch the motor mount, unless you just enjoy doing more work than you need to.

2. You DO NOT need to jack the car up. Everything can be done from the engine bay.

3. You DO NOT need to pull back your fender lining. Again, you can access everything from the engine bay.

4. You DO NOT need 2 people to do this. You, a serpentine belt removal tool, and 25 minutes of your time is all you will need.


5; IMPORTANT: The replacement belt that they will try to sell you at NAPA/CarQuest/Advanced Auto etc. IS THE WRONG SIZE BELT!!!! They will tell you that the belt you need will be 68 5/8 inches, but that is too long. You will put this belt on, and notice that the arrow on your tensioner will be out of spec, and you will get a very loud rattle between 1000-2000 rpm. The belt length needs to be 67 1/2 inches, not 68 5/8. The Dayco belt part number you are looking for is 5070675, NOT 5070680, which is what there computers will list as the correct replacement part.


Time needed: With the serpentine belt removal tool, this took me about 25 minutes.


Tools needed:

Serpentine belt removal tool:


Some people say that they have had success without this, but if you want the job to be quick and easy, then do yourself a favor and pick this up. You'll need it not only for loosening the auto tensioner, but for pulling the belt around the bottom pulleys. You can borrow this from Auto-Zone or Pepboys. Just pay a 30$ deposit when you pick the tool up, and you get your money back when you drop it off.



Instructions:


1. Open the hood, and remove the power steering fluid reservoir from its clip ( all you have to do is literally pull up on it, and it lifts right off of the clip). Then attach the 14mm socket that was included with the serpentine belt removal tool, to the end, and place it on the end of the auto tensioner pulley.





The left arrow in this diagram is pointing to the auto tensioner.





What it should look like....





2. Fit the serpentine belt removal tool over the end of the auto tensioner so that the tool is sticking straight up.





3. move the tool clockwise (towards the front of the car) to loosen the auto tensioner.





4. While pulling the tool towards the fromt of the car, remove the belt off of the top pulley. Once it is off, you can let go of the tensioner.





5. Remove the belt entirely from the pulley system. Use the space in the pic below for the best access to the lower pullies. you'll need to finagle the belt a little with the serpentine belt removal tool, in order to get it over the nut on the crank pulley. Just remove the 14mm socket, and use the socket connector at the end of the tool to twist the belt up and over the lower pullies.





Old belt, new belt....





6. Start threading the new belt around the pullies. The easiest way to do this, is to start by looping the belt around all of the pullies, and then using the un-socketed end of the serpentine removal tool to wedge the belt up and over the crank pulley.





If you look closely here, you'll see that I'm using the end of the socket removal tool to pull the belt around the crank pulley. You'll need to turn the belt flat to get it over that pulley, in order to situate it correctly.





7. Now once again, use the end of the belt removal tool to loop the belt correctly around all of the pullies, except the auto tensioner. Then, When the belt is correctly situated, put the 14mm socket on the end of the tool again, and loosen the auto tensioner again. When it is loose, ease the belt around the tensioner pulley. The belt should look like this when finished...





8. Make sure the belt matches the grooves on the pullies, and you are all set!





9. Bring the tool back to Autozone or Pepboys and get your money back.




10. Have a beer, and think about the fact that you just saved yourself $200 in labor charges.




 

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I have a new belt and have been hesitant on the install but this looks basic. prolly a pita.ill do this monday with this diy. Nice write up
 

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nice write up :thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Im at 70k no issues or noise, is there Any benefit to doing this? Thx in advance for the writeup!
Not in your situation, because you are still under the recommended mileage interval. I'm at 134,000 and I was getting really loud squeaking noises in the cold and when it was raining. Still good to know how to do by yourself though...mechanics will charge upwards of 200$ for this!
 

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I really, really, really, really need to do this


as far as buying the belt itself, I see there is a "OEM Bando" brand and the Honda parts, but difference in price.

What do you recommend?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I really, really, really, really need to do this


as far as buying the belt itself, I see there is a "OEM Bando" brand and the Honda parts, but difference in price.

What do you recommend?
I used the napa brand (Gates). It is supposed to be comparable quality to OEM. Ive heard that the Pepboys/Autozone brand (Dayco) is not good quality, but i havent used it so I'm not too sure.


I would just stick with Gates, or get the Gator back belt.
 

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Thank you very much for the tutorial! It was a major pain in the ass and local grease monkey had offered to do it for like $15 bucks but he left town. Saved me a bunch by not going to Acura (they wanted like $270 or something).


I actually bought the part on Amazon Bando Part: 7PK1715 for $14 bucks shipped over night (I have Amazon Prime and they gave me free overnight, not sure why).


I actually made the job a little easier for those who are looking to do it.


Keep in mind, I have never done this and was able to do it relatively easy.


I loosened the tensioner and removed the top part of the belt. I couldn't quite get the bottom off so I just simply cut the belt off and pulled it off. Saves you time if you had a hard time.


When you put on the new belt, I again had a hard time getting the bottom pulleys settled, so I went under my car and there is flap you pull back and it was as easy as pulling the belt down and I was able to adjust the top as directed.


The rest was just as directed, I noticed an immediate difference in steering and the car was a lot quieter, no more squeal!
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thank you very much for the tutorial! It was a major pain in the ass and local grease monkey had offered to do it for like $15 bucks but he left town. Saved me a bunch by not going to Acura (they wanted like $270 or something).


I actually bought the part on Amazon Bando Part: 7PK1715 for $14 bucks shipped over night (I have Amazon Prime and they gave me free overnight, not sure why).


I actually made the job a little easier for those who are looking to do it.


Keep in mind, I have never done this and was able to do it relatively easy.


I loosened the tensioner and removed the top part of the belt. I couldn't quite get the bottom off so I just simply cut the belt off and pulled it off. Saves you time if you had a hard time.


When you put on the new belt, I again had a hard time getting the bottom pulleys settled, so I went under my car and there is flap you pull back and it was as easy as pulling the belt down and I was able to adjust the top as directed.


The rest was just as directed, I noticed an immediate difference in steering and the car was a lot quieter, no more squeal!
Ya the squeal is pretty much why I did this....I was so done with that sound!
 

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Discussion Starter #12
up
 

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is this for the base or type s? I replace my base with this part number belt ..and i noticed the arrow was a little off of the indicator
 

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I just replaced mine with the Gates Racing Belt and had the same problem (out of spec), as I have an '05 Type S, which supposedly takes the K070669 belt. I see both that and the K070680 listed on different webstores for the same car. I contacted inmydream316 about this because he used the same belt on his '05 Type S and had no problems. I'm gonna let it go and see how it does (I haven't started it yet).
 

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A question my buddy wants me to ask.

What serpentine belt for a k24/k20?
Do you get one for the k24 or the k20 part of the motor?
 

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Not in your situation, because you are still under the recommended mileage interval. I'm at 134,000 and I was getting really loud squeaking noises in the cold and when it was raining. Still good to know how to do by yourself though...mechanics will charge upwards of 200$ for this!
did your squeaking noise went away after replacing the belt??...cuz i remember someone on here say that they still have the same noise after replacing it and think that it might be the auto tensioner itself thats making the noise....my car is doing the same thing when its cold and whenever its raining, but it is quite when its hot/warm outside...thanks for the diy...
 
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