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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I hate to do this and be "that guy" but I am out of ideas...
Finished installing my CT SC tonight for the second time this week and still have the same issue. The car struggles to start then immediately stalls after 2-3 seconds. This was my troubleshooting process and what I have confirmed...
-Confirmed fuel pressure
-Confirmed power to injectors
-Confirmed map, TPS, IACV plugs are correct
-Adjusted TPS for new Skunk2 TB
-Confirmed new map sensor is good
-Confirmed proper torque specs on intake manifold, TB, SC Inlet, blower to aftercooler and aftercooler to manifold (Installed and reinstalled twice just to make sure).
-Confirmed proper TB gasket
-Proper base map uploaded

Any suggestions or other things I may be overlooking? Thanks in advance guys
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Turned out to be my new Skunk2 TB. Calibrated the TPS, plugged in the Map, TPS and IACV. Not sure why it is not working
 

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Just an idea but is the MAP sensor able to get air from the SC? Some TB's move the hole in which the MAP sensor gets its readings from. That might be the problem. Also on the S2 TB did you delete your IACV and have you checked your idle set screw to make sure it isnt completely closed?

Thats all I can think of?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Just an idea but is the MAP sensor able to get air from the SC? Some TB's move the hole in which the MAP sensor gets its readings from. That might be the problem. Also on the S2 TB did you delete your IACV and have you checked your idle set screw to make sure it isnt completely closed?

Thats all I can think of?
Turns out there was a piece of billet blocking the map channel inside the TB, not allowing the map to read properly
 

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Wth??? Piece of billet??
 

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Discussion Starter #6

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Past Driver’s Ed
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Turns out there was a piece of billet blocking the map channel inside the TB, not allowing the map to read properly
On your CTE SC setup the MAP sensor needs to be connect to the small port located on the top CTE’s intake manifold. Keep the MAP port on the TB blocked.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
On your CTE SC setup the MAP sensor needs to be connect to the small port located on the top CTE’s intake manifold. Keep the MAP port on the TB blocked.
I know it is. I have the map adaptor/replicator. All is good it was a manufacturing issue with the TB. I got the obstruction out
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Good to hear. Is it running now or you still having issues?
Running great, well on the base map until I get tuned. The TB turned out to be the only issue
 

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Just an idea but is the MAP sensor able to get air from the SC? Some TB's move the hole in which the MAP sensor gets its readings from. That might be the problem. Also on the S2 TB did you delete your IACV and have you checked your idle set screw to make sure it isnt completely closed?

Thats all I can think of?
i have that map sensor plug your talking about, how do i use it? my map sensor is currently on the manifold below the supercharger,i believe it went bad. kpro isnt reading boost. sorry for the dumb question, but is this how it should be?
 

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i have that map sensor plug your talking about, how do i use it? my map sensor is currently on the manifold below the supercharger,i believe it went bad. kpro isnt reading boost. sorry for the dumb question, but is this how it should be?
Some verification please
  1. What throttle body are you using?
  2. What supercharger do you have?
  3. What map sensor are you using?
 

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Past Driver’s Ed
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stock ep3 TB
cte supercharger
im using this honda map sensor,
37830-PNC-003
See the plug/spacer sandwiched between the MAP sensor and the throttle body. The vacuum line runs from the plug/spacer to the port located on the top of the CTE intake manifold. Now it’s possible that you have a bad map sensor. If you have the funding, purchase a Hondata 4 bar MAP sensor for around $95.00. It will handle any level of boost you supercharger can generate.
 

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oh THANKS, i have that map sensor unplugged and im plugged into my map sensor thats on the bottom of the supercharger manifold. my tuner said it may of went bad. but heres a pic. the top vac port is going to brake booster, the bottom is capped off, and the throttle body map is unused. is this ideal? cte.png
 

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Remember the purpose of the MAP sensor is to measure the vacuum/pressure of the air flow going into your engine. This information is sent to the ECU which then adjusts how much the fuel injectors are feeding to your engine. On my setup, what I called the plug/spacer servers two functions. It plugs the OEMs original port in the throttle body, but it has a new port on the side of it to allow you to run a hose to the intake manifold. The intake manifold port can be located anywhere on the intake manifold as long as it is located between the discharge of the supercharger and the engine head. I chose my plug/spacer (adapter block) setup because it is a functional, professional looking installation (plus came with the supercharger). There is nothing wrong with using an old MAP sensor to plug the OEM throttle body port like shown in your photo.

Now for the two vacuum ports located on the supercharger intake near the radiator. They are normally used to provide vacuum to the brake booster and the engine PVC valve. I use the top port for the brake booster (note: make sure you are still utilizing the little check valve inserted inside the hose leading to the brake booster. On the OEM hose, it was located near the brake booster). For the lower port, If you're not using the PVC circuit make sure you cap this port.

Final thoughts. Double check to make sure you have zero vacuum leaks. ECU can be sensitive on how the engine electricals are grounded. Make sure you have a clean, tight ground connection to your engine (located front center of engine). Not sure if you're on the factory tune or not, but the KproV4 ECU “can tunes” never seem to perform well with my engine build at engine idle rpm. Only after I got a custom tune did the engine perform like it came from the factory.
 

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Remember the purpose of the MAP sensor is to measure the vacuum/pressure of the air flow going into your engine. This information is sent to the ECU which then adjusts how much the fuel injectors are feeding to your engine. On my setup, what I called the plug/spacer servers two functions. It plugs the OEMs original port in the throttle body, but it has a new port on the side of it to allow you to run a hose to the intake manifold. The intake manifold port can be located anywhere on the intake manifold as long as it is located between the discharge of the supercharger and the engine head. I chose my plug/spacer (adapter block) setup because it is a functional, professional looking installation (plus came with the supercharger). There is nothing wrong with using an old MAP sensor to plug the OEM throttle body port like shown in your photo.

Now for the two vacuum ports located on the supercharger intake near the radiator. They are normally used to provide vacuum to the brake booster and the engine PVC valve. I use the top port for the brake booster (note: make sure you are still utilizing the little check valve inserted inside the hose leading to the brake booster. On the OEM hose, it was located near the brake booster). For the lower port, If you're not using the PVC circuit make sure you cap this port.

Final thoughts. Double check to make sure you have zero vacuum leaks. ECU can be sensitive on how the engine electricals are grounded. Make sure you have a clean, tight ground connection to your engine (located front center of engine). Not sure if you're on the factory tune or not, but the KproV4 ECU “can tunes” never seem to perform well with my engine build at engine idle rpm. Only after I got a custom tune did the engine perform like it came from the factory.
thanks for all the info! i got a tune from derf, everything went fine, i drove it for a few minutes and i loved it, then i trailerd it home. then next day it made no power, like it struggled to pass 5k rpm. and he logged into my laptop and ran kpro and said try a new map sensor cause the computer doesnt show any boost. so im hoping when the new map sensor comes in, its good to go. my luck, i only got to drive it for like 5 minutes. no boost is either vac leak or map sensor right? i went over the engine 100% for vac leaks. nothing
 

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thanks for all the info! i got a tune from derf, everything went fine, i drove it for a few minutes and i loved it, then i trailerd it home. then next day it made no power, like it struggled to pass 5k rpm. and he logged into my laptop and ran kpro and said try a new map sensor cause the computer doesnt show any boost. so im hoping when the new map sensor comes in, its good to go. my luck, i only got to drive it for like 5 minutes. no boost is either vac leak or map sensor right? i went over the engine 100% for vac leaks. nothing
When you say "no boost" there is one more thing to check and that is the supercharger’s bypass valve. The bypass valve controls the supercharger’s pressure (boost) and it’s controlled by the intake manifold vacuum. Double check the vacuum suply to the valve. Do a vacuum test on the valve itself to make sure the valve is functioning properly and that it’s shaft rotates freely and is not binding.
 

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When you say "no boost" there is one more thing to check and that is the supercharger’s bypass valve. The bypass valve controls the supercharger’s pressure (boost) and it’s controlled by the intake manifold vacuum. Double check the vacuum suply to the valve. Do a vacuum test on the valve itself to make sure the valve is functioning properly and that it’s shaft rotates freely and is not binding.
im pretty sure it works fine. whats the easiest way to test it? and lets say it is bad or needs replacing, how do i buy the same one? they seem hard to find
 
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