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Discussion Starter #1
I did my search and the thread on cx racing kits are nothing like the set up i want.. my 2003 type s is in the Dr.'s office right now getting her turbo put on.. i have a cx racing kit i bought from a fellow clubrsx member... southside...
http://forums.clubrsx.com/showthread.php?t=1015666&highlight=cx+racing



the kit/ my setup consists of
IC Piping installed
intercooler installed
660cc injectors installed
(with clips have been tested and have flowchart in hand (remans)
sidewinder manifold nitrate instead of normal one. installed
GT35 turbo installed
tial 38mm wastegate installed
BOV installed
dumptube installed
tsx cams.. installed
brand new timing kit w/ ktune cover installed
RBC manifold installed
hondata IMG installed
new belt installed
Greddy exhaust installed
Innovative 60a mounts installed
AEM UEGO a/f wideband installed
AEM TRU boost installed
AEM oil pressure installed
HKS air filter installed
Turbo blanket (installed
Competition stage 4 clutch (installed
TSX cams (installed
30 ft of heat wrap (installed

Turbo intake kit (not installed
HKS turbo timer (not installed
255lph walbro fuel pump (not installed)
NGK 8 v power plugs (not yet installed)
kpro installed.... (waiting on a base map)
3bar map with clip (not installed)

i have a few questions..

one of my question's.. i want 300-350HP I was told I dont need the 3 bar, oil catch can, or the walbro 255 FP....is this true?

how long could i ride on a basemap..

would i start it on a new turbo set up basemap? or do i attempt the turn over on my previous basemap... for the toda race header, rbc, Hondata IMG set up? just to make sure she starts up.... I was told I dont need the 3 bar to start her up... after she starts he would want to switch it.... i thought you would need the 3 bar to tune? is this a good idea? or bad one? does there seem to be anything I AM MISSING? :rest

I will attach some pictures of the build :vtec: as soon as email on my phone starts to work again :dontknow:






 

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FWD FTW!
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483 Posts
fp needed asap, map sensor u can always switch later dont sweat it, stock u can boost up to 10 lbs i believe i may be wrong, and dont see how the tct cover is needed but looks good.

Also dont fuck with basemaps, get one for the turbo setup, dont slack on that if cant get it done then shouldnt have went turbo!
 

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RealTalk
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5,636 Posts
fp needed asap, map sensor u can always switch later dont sweat it, stock u can boost up to 10 lbs i believe i may be wrong, and dont see how the tct cover is needed but looks good.

Also dont fuck with basemaps, get one for the turbo setup, dont slack on that if cant get it done then shouldnt have went turbo!
x2 i wouldve said the same
 

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3BAR map sensor is plenty for the power you want.
Do not drive (much less get on it) the car on a "base map" if you can avoid it, just take it to a dyno and get it tuned by someone that knows how to tune.
38mm waste gate is going to be kind of hard to control at low boost... make sure you put a spring for low boost in that WG... but even then, it'll probably creep to whatever it wants lol
 

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You don't need a catch can. I'm over 500 and I don't
 

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Discussion Starter #11
do you have any idea what size spring would be in it? im cool with a little spike but im hoping she stays under 15lbs of boost max :)
 

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Dafkup
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2,080 Posts
Yeah do not drive hard in boost at all, disconnect the charge piping. My buddy hooked up his boosted set up and said he couldn't help it and went nearly full throttle before tune. Heard a loud clank and kissed his valves goodbye...had to park in the garage same night. After thousands of dollars, several months, and a tune he's now good. Get it tuned
 

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I did my search and the thread on cx racing kits are nothing like the set up i want.. my 2003 type s is in the Dr.'s office right now getting her turbo put on.. i have a cx racing kit i bought from a fellow clubrsx member... southside...
http://forums.clubrsx.com/showthread.php?t=1015666&highlight=cx+racing



the kit/ my setup consists of
IC Piping installed
intercooler installed
660cc injectors installed
(with clips have been tested and have flowchart in hand (remans)
sidewinder manifold nitrate instead of normal one. installed
GT35 turbo installed
tial 38mm wastegate installed
BOV installed
dumptube installed
tsx cams.. installed
brand new timing kit w/ ktune cover installed
RBC manifold installed
hondata IMG installed
new belt installed
Greddy exhaust installed
Innovative 60a mounts installed
AEM UEGO a/f wideband installed
AEM TRU boost installed
AEM oil pressure installed
HKS air filter installed
Turbo blanket (installed
Competition stage 4 clutch (installed
TSX cams (installed
30 ft of heat wrap (installed

Turbo intake kit (not installed
HKS turbo timer (not installed
255lph walbro fuel pump (not installed)
NGK 8 v power plugs (not yet installed)
kpro installed.... (waiting on a base map)
3bar map with clip (not installed)

i have a few questions..

one of my question's.. i want 300-350HP I was told I dont need the 3 bar, oil catch can, or the walbro 255 FP....is this true?

how long could i ride on a basemap..

would i start it on a new turbo set up basemap? or do i attempt the turn over on my previous basemap... for the toda race header, rbc, Hondata IMG set up? just to make sure she starts up.... I was told I dont need the 3 bar to start her up... after she starts he would want to switch it.... i thought you would need the 3 bar to tune? is this a good idea? or bad one? does there seem to be anything I AM MISSING? :rest

I will attach some pictures of the build :vtec: as soon as email on my phone starts to work again :dontknow:






The map sensor isn’t gonna matter to start. If you get the entire kit on and have an Ecu the car will start. The gt35 is way overkill for 380hp. You would only need like a gt28 if your wanting ball bearing.
Also 660cc injectors you would go to kmanager then to tables i think find the injector tab and put in 660cc injectors. You can run the car on a stock tune if you want it will run and drive. Just won’t let you build more than 1-2psi I’d boost before it will cut out.
Now to the difficult shit, 255lph will be fine. You just can’t run E through it. Too small of a pump. Unless you got the e85 compatible 255 walboro.
For 380hp the 3 bar map is overkill but it will be fine for tuning and readings. When i was at 370hp i had stock everything. Fuel pump, rail, all that stuff. Also i had a stock clutch till it burnt up then got the stage 2 with flywheel and it worked great. And i was ok the stock map sensor as well. Even stock mounts lol i drove the car with the oem Ecu in the car on the oem map for about 6 months before i got kpro, it just won’t let you run more than 1-2psi. Also i ran stock DSM injectors they was 440cc’s and about 80% duty cycle on the tune at 14psi
Now the 3 bar map sensor will read up to 43.5 psi. 1 bar = 14.5 psi of boost
I had the aem tru boost on my bike and that controller sucked dick. I would run the Hondata boost control solenoid for sure. At least you have more stuff than you need. Always better to have too many gadgets than not enough. Lmao

now that you know the car will run on the stock setup all around with that gt35 you’ll maybe put 7psi to 12 or between that to hit your 380hp goal. (With time of coarse) UNLESS you find a tuned map online for your setup or really close to it.

The big question is what kind of fuel system you have and what kind of fuel do you plan to run? 380 is a pretty easy number to hit on boost. Just depends on the turbo and what not. But since it is a bigger turbo you may have to run a bigger wastegate to keep up with the blow by from the turbo. But maybe not. I’ve never ran one. I would assume the gt35 is going to push quite a bit of volume so idk how well the 38mm wastegate will handle all the blow by when it opens. Don’t want any boost creep or nothing.

your list seems pretty solid from what i seen. I would say to put everything on and see what happens. Leave the stock pump in for now or put the 255 in and find someone or someone online that can street tune it for you. Just email data logs on each pull and email it to the guy tuning. Back in the day i had magnesium tune mine and it was 3 pulls and a idle and that’s it. Was tuned in about 30 mins.Car was stupid quick and it was just a greddy t517z kit with an upgraded turbo (gt28) and the natedog down pipe.
Now is the turbo journal or ball bearing? If it’s ball bearing the turbo timer is useless. If it’s a newer turbo it’s pretty much useless anyways. But it is kinda cool to have. I had it on my last kit and only had it sit at idle for 20 mins after i turned it off.
 
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