[kracker]

I have part of a rev-hard and it sucks ass!! The pipes are beyond a retarded retard....just plain stupid how they have them put on. Dont come with instructions, and the turbo sits about 1/2" from one of the a/c lines. Just go CN and you can thank us later.... :laughing:

 

[kracker]

Hmm....actually my turbine discharge (flange going to hot side of IC) is pointing downward, looks like yours is up :dontknow: . I just thermo-wrapped EVERYTHING near it. My power steering line goes right between the exhaust side and compressor side...horrible design. Do you have the ES MM on your car? That might make a difference on how low the engine sits in the bay. Also, my downpipe was just a piece of pipe with no flange what so ever on it.....damn retards. So I took about 4" off the downpipe and took it to a muffler shop and they ran 3" from mid downpipe all the way to the back of the car. No resonators, no cat, straight-through muffler (apexi N1). That freed up an amazing amount of power.

 

[kracker]

Yeah Im using the turbosmart wastegate that came with the kit. I think its a 25 or 30mm diaphram. It still has the same 7lb spring in it, but Im using the greddy MBC. It came with a dump tube...it ends right below the intermediate shaft. Its about a 1" or 1.5" in diameter. It works fine, but damn its loud once that WG is wide open.

What size turbo do you have?? Mines the t3/t4....

 

[kracker]

Hmm....technically mines the precision SC34. Capable of roughly 575hp (or 25 lbs). Its a T3/T04E with a .60 exhaust and .63 compressor....im about 90% sure about that.

In other words, yours is probley HUGE :spin:

 

[kracker]

My car is running excellent right now *knock on wood*. Tuning is a little challenging, but not impossible. Just go to the dyno and be prepared to spend a few hours...bring some ice. I havnt went for a final tune yet, but Im running good enough so that I dont blow up.

if you are going with the guardian, then I wouldnt waste the time/money on the fmu. BUT, you cant run probley more than 12lbs without it on just the safcII. You might be able to, but I would rather play it on the safe side. Ill be going to the dyno sometime soon, and tuning for 18lbs for the street. Then 22lbs (on race gas) for the track. On 22lbs I should be good for +425whp :nervous:

I just found out that the t3/60-1 flows 781cfm and my stupid t3/to4e only puts out 678cfm...thats a BIG difference. IF you have any ?'s just let me know, I know its going to be a long road to go down...but its well worth it in the end.

 

[kracker]

I do plan on hooking up a return line, would that be good enough? By the time I have my bottom end rebuilt, I will also have the 3" piping & guardian purchased.

Did you have to have your downpipe diamater increased? How did you connect the 2.5" downpipe to your custom 3" piping?

With the FMU your going to be getting A LOT more fuel than just a return line. The thing is that the CN turbo makes boost a lot faster than the revhard turbo that you and I have. I used the stage II settings from CN, and Im running extremly rich from 3400-5000...or where the CN turbo has more boost than ours. Just to play it safe I wouldnt go over 12lbs...and tune it on a dyno. Or you could buy the FMU ($125) (get the 12:1), use it, tune on it, then sell it when you get the guardian.

I could not get the downpipe diameter increased, because the ******** around here dont have a mandrel bender. The crush bender that the use around here only has a 6" curve radius...other words they couldnt have made the bends tight enough. To connect the DP from 2.5" to 3"...the shop took the downpipe, flared it out, put an adapter in it (2.5 to 3), and then they just hooked up the 3" straight back. Word of important advice: get flanges! I made sure that I had at least 2 flanges so that I can take off the exhaust in pieces. It was $150 for 3" piping all the way back with: 2 flanges, hangers, gaskets, etc.

BTW, that safc looks good :thumbsup: . I made a cover for the spot under my radio (cd holder??) and mounted mine there. Ill put some pics up later.

 

[kracker]

I dont blame you one bit!! Fuck letting a shop mess up my car and scratch it up....I would rather be the one to do it :laughing:


It is a pain in the ass getting those little damn wires soldered in there....especially the + and -, without messing up the other wires around it, and not letting them short together. In cases like that...liquid electrical tape is your best friend.

Running a return line is not all that bad...just make SURE you have no leaks and there is nothing vibrating/rubbing on the line. I ran mine down beside the brake lines going to the rear of the car. I used a zip tie about every 6-8"