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I would start around 60psi. Hook the FPR vacuum up to any vacuum line from the manifold.
Alright thanks man, and do you think I would have to tweak it any? Like make adjustments to it or do you think I should maybe have my tuner do it when I get my car tuned for my new turbo setup?
 

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Im having a bit of issues with mine.

Your 3/8 hose wasnt too big for the 5/16 outlet on the pump? If it works this may solve my headace.
 

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Taohawaii hit the nail on the head. This write up is flawed and you are at risk of damaging your motor running this configuration from a lean condition. Spaz usually does great writeups but this one could spell bad news.

I knew something was wrong when I ran out of gas with a 1/4 of a tank!
 

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You can by-pass the stock FPR and run the return line directly down to the inlet at the bottom of the fuel cage. Just need to also plug up the original feed port. Like any pressurized system a close loop is needed. Pressure can be tuned as low as stock and you can run the car until it's empty with accurate fuel gage reading.
 

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You can by-pass the stock FPR and run the return line directly down to the inlet at the bottom of the fuel cage. Just need to also plug up the original feed port. Like any pressurized system a close loop is needed. Pressure can be tuned as low as stock and you can run the car until it's empty with accurate fuel gage reading.
Plugging up the original feed port is exactly what you need to do.

Running the return line directly to the bottom of the fuel cage is NOT what you want to do. I will explain why. The fuel returning to the bottom of the cage can and sometimes will slosh to one side under a hard turn or hard acceleration, resulting in no fuel being sucked up for a few seconds even in the plastic bowl. Acura/Honda designed the fuel cage return to have a nozzle at the bottom that sprays and injects fuel into the pump even under hard turning or acceleration. Because the fuel is in a tube and it's being injected by spray, it has no where to slosh around. What Acura/Honda designed is pure genius!


TaoHawaii made an awesome Youtube video, explains many things.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SUAx8pms1io
 

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TaoHawaii is correct, removing the stock FPR spring and running a larger nozzle will correct the lean cut and the high fuel pressure at idle.

I will make a custom nozzle and post a DIY.
 

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That is a solution, though I don't see it as an absolute requirement to run returned fuel through the modified stock FPR. In my case, the pump pushes close to 100 psi and I'm using just over 50 at the rail. The return pressure should be sufficient to be "sprayed" into the cage without having to pass through the stock FPR then a small nozzle to build up pressure.

Again, this is just my specific set up and may not apply to others. Maybe I just got lucky =). But I don't experience lean cut under hard acceleration or cornering even with less than 1/4 tank of fuel. It's great to have the learning shared on our forum here so others are informed.

Looking forward to see the custom nozzle.
 

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Drilling the nozzle bigger looks like the best solution.


Also I wanted to post, you can do the return line for half the cost. If you don't need the bling! I mod my car but make it look as stock as possible. Cops here in SoCal pop hoods all day and write tickets.

You need the kit supplied by Dorman, it comes with the fittings. You just need a tubing bender and adapter, it will bolt to an aftermarket fuel rail. It's also 30 feet long and you have enough room to reroute it for Turbo. Hell no will I put rubber lines underneath my car! I learned that when road debris killed my rubber lines on my CRX. Rubber hoses should never go under the car, aluminum is bad to, crushes too easy. Steel is my choice!

800-157 Dorman STEEL FUEL LINE REPAIR KIT. 3/8 IN. x 30 IN. w/ 16mm FITTING $22 X2

Aeromotive 13109 FPR (Rising Rate) -6AN $150

Deatschwerks DW65c 9-651-1009 o-ring kit (drop in) $124

Fuel rail Karcepts $134 (My choice, it comes with the 8an to 6an adapter)

Total $296 Not bad!
 

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Drilling the nozzle bigger looks like the best solution.


Also I wanted to post, you can do the return line for half the cost. If you don't need the bling! I mod my car but make it look as stock as possible. Cops here in SoCal pop hoods all day and write tickets.

You need the kit supplied by Dorman, it comes with the fittings. You just need a tubing bender and adapter, it will bolt to an aftermarket fuel rail. It's also 30 feet long and you have enough room to reroute it for Turbo. Hell no will I put rubber lines underneath my car! I learned that when road debris killed my rubber lines on my CRX. Rubber hoses should never go under the car, aluminum is bad to, crushes too easy. Steel is my choice!

800-157 Dorman STEEL FUEL LINE REPAIR KIT. 3/8 IN. x 30 IN. w/ 16mm FITTING $22 X2

Aeromotive 13109 FPR (Rising Rate) -6AN $150

Deatschwerks DW65c 9-651-1009 o-ring kit (drop in) $124

Fuel rail Karcepts $134 (My choice, it comes with the 8an to 6an adapter)

Total $296 Not bad!
I'm thinking about doing this myself, did you ever happen to make a DIY or more descriptive version of what it took to make this work? A return fuel system would be ideal for my goals
 

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I wish i would have seen this before i started my fuel setup and didn’t buy enough line or fittings lol the pump feed and return came in clutch!
 

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My old thread still being passed around. Very nice lol
thank God for it! im running the lines a little different but since im using an in-tank pump that shit came in hella clutch lol i did get all of the same pump fittings and hose. but i already have the walboro 255 in mine as well. lol
 
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