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I miss my DC5
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1,736 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I searched and didnt see any DIYs on this other than:
"step 1-remove oem header
step 2- install new header."
So I thought I'd write it up for you.

It's not a difficult install, but some of the bolts may be a pain to get loose.
A good trick to use is locking one wrench onto another one essentially increasing the length of the wrench and giving you more torque.
(not my picture)


So, your old header looks like this:

So you say to yourself, "this sucks. I want a cool header that will make my car faster, sound cooler, and look sweet!"

So you order your new shorty header. (Mine's a Spooled Up Racing header)


a new header will have more smooth transitions in the bends, allowing better airflow through the exhaust. This is why its better than stock.

Start by jacking up the front of your car and putting it on jackstands.
(make sure its sturdy before getting under it.)

slide under your car and find where the downpipe meets the shorty header. There will be two spring-loaded bolts there. They are 12mm. Remove those two bolts.
(view of bolts from above)


optional: take out the two 10mm bolts holding the power steering tube and throttle cable to the valve cover. having these cables loose will allow you to move them around and make it easier to reach the bolts on the header.

Now, from the top, find the header (back of the engine [duh])
There are 5 bolts holding it on. The top two are just nuts, the bottom three are whole bolts. All 5 are 14mm.

Its tricky to get into the tight space, but if I can do it, you can too. once you get them all out, the header is loose.

Pull off the header and get it out of the engine bay.

pull off the metal gasket that was between the header and the engine.

Put the new gasket (that came with the header) where the old one was.

Put the new header in place. Line it up with the downpipe, and line it up with the engine.

Start with the two nuts, put them on loosely, then do the bolts. once all the bolts and nuts are on (excluding the ones under the car) tighten them all down. They've gotta be very tight in order to make a good seal and not make your engine smoke.
Once they're tight, get back under the car and reinstall the sprung bolts (no pun intended).
Once it's all tight, you're set.

Start it up. Then check your engine. If its a lot louder, you may not have a good seal and you're likely to have a lot of smoke in your engine bay.
Mine smoked a little bit, but after I drove it around the block, it stopped smoking and set in.

Its pretty straight forward. Go for it, you can have it done in an hour or two.
Great way to add a little power and make your rsx growl!

Thanks for reading. Good luck and enjoy!

before:

After:
 

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Bańned
Joined
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12,105 Posts
simple yet effective :thumbsup:
 

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I miss my DC5
Joined
·
1,736 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
I know its an easy install, but any job can seem overwhelming until someone shows you how to do it.
I usually search for a diy before I do any job, just to see what it's going to take. Its easier than getting in there and pulling bolts until its fixed. ;)
 

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Bańned
Joined
·
12,105 Posts
I know its an easy install, but any job can seem overwhelming until someone shows you how to do it.
I usually search for a diy before I do any job, just to see what it's going to take. Its easier than getting in there and pulling bolts until its fixed. ;)
exactly. thats why people need DIY's for brakes and oil changes! simple but if youve never done it before its frightening
 

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from 2004
Joined
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3,690 Posts
I searched and didnt see any DIYs on this other than:
"step 1-remove oem header
step 2- install new header."
So I thought I'd write it up for you.

It's not a difficult install, but some of the bolts may be a pain to get loose.
A good trick to use is locking one wrench onto another one essentially increasing the length of the wrench and giving you more torque.
(not my picture)


So, your old header looks like this:

So you say to yourself, "this sucks. I want a cool header that will make my car faster, sound cooler, and look sweet!"

So you order your new shorty header. (Mine's a Spooled Up Racing header)


a new header will have more smooth transitions in the bends, allowing better airflow through the exhaust. This is why its better than stock.

Start by jacking up the front of your car and putting it on jackstands.
(make sure its sturdy before getting under it.)

slide under your car and find where the downpipe meets the shorty header. There will be two spring-loaded bolts there. They are 12mm. Remove those two bolts.
(view of bolts from above)


optional: take out the two 10mm bolts holding the power steering tube and throttle cable to the valve cover. having these cables loose will allow you to move them around and make it easier to reach the bolts on the header.

Now, from the top, find the header (back of the engine [duh])
There are 5 bolts holding it on. The top two are just nuts, the bottom three are whole bolts. All 5 are 14mm.

Its tricky to get into the tight space, but if I can do it, you can too. once you get them all out, the header is loose.

Pull off the header and get it out of the engine bay.

pull off the metal gasket that was between the header and the engine.

Put the new gasket (that came with the header) where the old one was.

Put the new header in place. Line it up with the downpipe, and line it up with the engine.

Start with the two nuts, put them on loosely, then do the bolts. once all the bolts and nuts are on (excluding the ones under the car) tighten them all down. They've gotta be very tight in order to make a good seal and not make your engine smoke.
Once they're tight, get back under the car and reinstall the sprung bolts (no pun intended).
Once it's all tight, you're set.

Start it up. Then check your engine. If its a lot louder, you may not have a good seal and you're likely to have a lot of smoke in your engine bay.
Mine smoked a little bit, but after I drove it around the block, it stopped smoking and set in.

Its pretty straight forward. Go for it, you can have it done in an hour or two.
Great way to add a little power and make your rsx growl!

Thanks for reading. Good luck and enjoy!

before:

After:
Can a RH be installed the same way? I thought it'd be harder but I guess the really hard part is getting the old bolts loose. Did you have a lift or just jack up the car?
 

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I miss my DC5
Joined
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1,736 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
review?
did u feel anything?
always wondered if there was a difference.
but i got a RH already :laughing:
I noticed a difference. It sounds better when you're on the throttle, it pulls harder, and looks cooler. Its definitely an upgrade from stock. the stock header had some sharp angles in the piping, but this header smooths out a lot of that. I'm sure a RH does it a little better, but I dont have the $$ for that right now. The one I got is $125 shipped from Spooled Up Racing, and I think that's a good deal. If you have the money to burn though, go for a race header.

Can a RH be installed the same way? I thought it'd be harder but I guess the really hard part is getting the old bolts loose. Did you have a lift or just jack up the car?
I did it the ghetto way with one scissor jack, and two small jackstands. The RH install would be a little more difficult because you have to remove hangers, O2 sensors, and the cat. Then you have to install defoulers and all that fun stuff... I haven't done it yet, so I can't say what all it intails. I'm pretty sure someone else wrote up a DIY for the RH though. check the Giant DIY List thread that's stickied.
 

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Registered
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84 Posts
this is awsome, everything i needed at one place, have pretty much the same headers, generic but, o well, do you have an exhaust on too? if so how does it sound.
 

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I miss my DC5
Joined
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1,736 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
pretty decent write up.

anyone know what happened to the older diy rh threads???!!
...thanks?
the DIYs for exhaust are kind of hard to find. People dont like to take pics while lying on the ground. Also, the exhaust systems are pretty simple. if you want to replace a pipe, unbolt it and put in the new one.
 

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You know what it is
Joined
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159 Posts
I'm guessing the weird bracket that comes down and bolts onto the circular extension on the bottom where the stock header meets the downpipe is no longer used neither the bolts?
 
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