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So today Dan and I did a valve adjustment and inspection on the new k24a2 I swapped into my DC5. We noticed several valves were getting "sloppy" and so I'm glad we were able to get this done. So here we go.

Tools Needed:
Angled feeler gauges
19mm deep socket and extension
Flat head Screwdriver
10mm socket


First you will want to turn the wheel to the right as far as possible. This will open the space to stick the extension and 19mm socket on to the crank pulley.

Now that you've done that it's time to start preparing.

I then took off the valve cover and placed it off to the side.


Heres your exposed engine head


From there you will want to use the 19mm socket and manually turn the engine over to top dead center on cylinder one. You can use the marks on the intake VTC gear to do so (the little arrow) and the marks down below on the crank pulley


Before you do anything you should know what your specs are. On the hood is the factory engine specs and it lists the valve clearances. I was not aware of that till just now. Pretty cool


You will be using 2 different feeler gauge sizes. One for intake side and one for the exhaust side. Start with cylinder one (closest to the cam gears) and check the clearance.


To start, loosen the bolt and slide the feeler gauge in. The most important thing to remember is to hold the feeler gauge as flat as possible.

You will then want to take the flat head screw driver and adjust the rod until it fits snug onto the feeler gauge. You should be able to slide the feeler gauge back out so don't over tighten the screw. Once you've got the screw set, tighten the bolt back down and recheck the clearance. When you're finished with the intake side move to the back and do the exhaust side.
Picture of screw and bolt


The firing order for any inline 4cyl engine is 1-3-4-2

When finished with cylinder one, turn the engine over manually again until you get the next cam gear alignment line at the top of the intake cam.


Move to cylinder 3 and repeat the valve adjustment process. Then just keep turning the engine over to the next marker to do the fourth cylinder


and one final turn so you can do the second cylinder. After finishing, go back around and check all of the bolts and clearances and call it a day.
 

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Good write up! What was your specs before you adjusted them? Did u notice a difference on how the motor sounded after that.
 

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Good write up! What was your specs before you adjusted them? Did u notice a difference on how the motor sounded after that.
definitely noticed a difference and feel and sound. My intake side wasn't bad but my exhaust side was pretty off. I don't remember the exact specs though.
 

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so TDC for cyl 1 the arrow lines up with the "dot" on the cam gear?....and each TDC to follow will just be a "line" 90 degrees to the right of the last mark? any tq specs on those bolts or just moderately tight? and is it necessary to use honda bond or some other gasket material when putting the valve cover back on?
 

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amazing write up man i need to do this soon. When you turn the engine over to top dead center, how do you know what cylinder you're on or whatever? I'm yet to take the vc off my engine
 

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so TDC for cyl 1 the arrow lines up with the "dot" on the cam gear?....and each TDC to follow will just be a "line" 90 degrees to the right of the last mark? any tq specs on those bolts or just moderately tight? and is it necessary to use honda bond or some other gasket material when putting the valve cover back on?
anybody ? I see the arrow and the indent on the cam gear for TDC 1 will the lines on the cam gear be at 3 6 and 9 o clock position on the cam gear for each remaining cyl?

Top dead center is arrow and dot just like the first picture yes and then yes follow the dash's for the rest of the TDC cylinders. As for a torque I didn't use a torque spec, just tightened them down tight enough not to come off but not gorilla fucking he-man tight. When putting the VC gasket back on I use a thin layer of honda bond around the four main corners. Make sure to clean the gasket and the edges of the head.
 

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I'm about to do a valve adjustment, but I have a question. When you put the motor to TDC, you have the punch holes pointing up and the lines on the cam gears pointing at each other so you know they're aligned perfectly. Now when you turn the crank to adjust cylinder 3, what do you look at to make sure it's perfectly aligned? Do you just eye ball it from there or are there other marks you can line it up to? Do you have to be exactly on point?
 

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I'm about to do a valve adjustment, but I have a question. When you put the motor to TDC, you have the punch holes pointing up and the lines on the cam gears pointing at each other so you know they're aligned perfectly. Now when you turn the crank to adjust cylinder 3, what do you look at to make sure it's perfectly aligned? Do you just eye ball it from there or are there other marks you can line it up to? Do you have to be exactly on point?
from there on, i eye balled it

but, some things that should help. you'll turn 90* on the crank to get to the next cylinder in the firing order. so, from TDC on cyl #1 (where everything lines up), 90* clockwise on the crank will set cyl #3 to TDC, then 90* again would set #4, then 90* again would set #2

but, when eyeballing it i just saw how the cam lobes were pointing on cyl #1 and ensured each cylinder that i was trying to set to TDC would be the same as how cyl #1 looked :bow:

you're really just trying to relieve pressure off of the rockers from the cams so this should still work very well :)
 
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