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Discussion Starter #1
Hello all, I am looking into buying DC 4-2-1 race headers and I was wondering how the fitment is with the stock sway bar? I have done my best to research this but have come up short so If there is a thread about this already please just let me know and ill take this down. In any case, I wanted to know how the clearance is and what sway bar is recommended if it doesn't fit. Any help is appreciated thanks!
 

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Past Driver’s Ed
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Hello all, I am looking into buying DC 4-2-1 race headers and I was wondering how the fitment is with the stock sway bar? I have done my best to research this but have come up short so If there is a thread about this already please just let me know and ill take this down. In any case, I wanted to know how the clearance is and what sway bar is recommended if it doesn't fit. Any help is appreciated thanks!
Invidia 02-06 RSX-S stainless steel race header fits and performs well. You won't need to change the OEM sway bar.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the response I was referring to the DC sports race header though and wondered if they would clear, Also I know there are threads about this and I've read them but if I don't use MM's (because I can't afford them right now) is the header likely to crack with stock mounts if so will ESSM suffice until I can proper MM's
 

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Past Driver’s Ed
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You need to modify the front and rear motor mounts to prevent the engine’s rocking movement from damaging the header. In my opinion motor mount inserts will perform for most bolt-ons builds. They cost around $29 for a set, generate minimum additional vibration, and greatly reduce wheel hop. About 7 years ago, I installed inserts on my supercharged RSX-S generating 365 whp and they are still performing well. And no I didn't use inserts because I was cheap. I rather see you invest in something else that will give you more return value for your dollars.


My car in action
 

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I had a DCRH and had ZERO clearance issues. I even kept and used the DCRH on a supercharged K24 swap again with no clearance issues.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
You need to modify the front and rear motor mounts to prevent the engine’s rocking movement from damaging the header. In my opinion motor mount inserts will perform for most bolt-ons builds. They cost around $29 for a set, generate minimum additional vibration, and greatly reduce wheel hop. About 7 years ago, I installed inserts on my supercharged RSX-S generating 365 whp and they are still performing well. And no I didn't use inserts because I was cheap. I rather see you invest in something else that will give you more return value for your dollars.


My car in action
Thanks for the input and video It sounds great, I know this varies from car to car but is it a complete rattlebox at idle and low rpm, I just sold my other car because of what's going on right now so for the foreseeable future my rsx is my daily, I can deal with vibration and not the total comfort of stock mounts, I plan on getting the energy suspension inserts and they have such mixed reviews so did they make the car a rattlebox or was it tolerable?
 

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Past Driver’s Ed
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Using inserts in the front and rear motor mounts, combined with the stock side mounts, the amount of vibration is just a hair more than stock mounts alone. Many experience a higher level of vibration after they swap out the stock passenger motor mount for an aftermarket unit. I compete my RSX-S regularly and after 193K miles the inserts and the original stock side mounts are performing just fine.
 

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Hello all, I am looking into buying DC 4-2-1 race headers and I was wondering how the fitment is with the stock sway bar? I have done my best to research this but have come up short so If there is a thread about this already please just let me know and ill take this down. In any case, I wanted to know how the clearance is and what sway bar is recommended if it doesn't fit.

just take off the sway bay mounts so u can move it out of the way. it’s still a little bit of a pain the the ass to get in.
 

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Using inserts in the front and rear motor mounts, combined with the stock side mounts, the amount of vibration is just a hair more than stock mounts alone. Many experience a higher level of vibration after they swap out the stock passenger motor mount for an aftermarket unit. I compete my RSX-S regularly and after 193K miles the inserts and the original stock side mounts are performing just fine.
Lmao, "just a hair more vibration than stock mounts". Maybe when cruising, but at a stoplight with the A/C on, god help you when you hear your dash rattle to pieces and your passengers are wondering what's broken in your car.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Lmao, "just a hair more vibration than stock mounts". Maybe when cruising, but at a stoplight with the A/C on, god help you when you hear your dash rattle to pieces and your passengers are wondering what's broken in your car.
I know it's going to be worse than stock mounts, it's a given you're stiffing them and not allowing play, I plan on putting them in next week any ideas on what I can do to help soften them, I don't want my headers to crack and even though they have a flex pipe, mounts should be there or "inserts" at a minimum IMO. Any thoughts on me cutting the rear ESMM in two making the bottom bigger and just leaving that in but not putting in the top (smaller) half, to allow for some play but still be stiff enough to prevent the engine from moving too much and cracking the header.
 

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Past Driver’s Ed
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I know it's going to be worse than stock mounts, it's a given you're stiffing them and not allowing play, I plan on putting them in next week any ideas on what I can do to help soften them, I don't want my headers to crack and even though they have a flex pipe, mounts should be there or "inserts" at a minimum IMO. Any thoughts on me cutting the rear ESMM in two making the bottom bigger and just leaving that in but not putting in the top (smaller) half, to allow for some play but still be stiff enough to prevent the engine from moving too much and cracking the header.
I’m not exaggerating about the “minimum” amount of vibration. In fact after a 100-200 miles it becomes even a little less noticeable. Do not modify the inserts. Install as is. Try it first and if you disagree with my recommendation feel free to trash me on the forum.
 

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You cut your ESSM, you lose the whole point of a stiffer mount. The insert will wear out prematurely depending on how many launches you do or how aggressive you drive.

ESSM - $30

Weapon-R Torque Damper - $150 - Easiest to install and helps with engine movement. Not safe for hard launches, okay for spirited driving. You'll know when you hear your header hit the swaybar or subframe. I currently have this on my RSX with a K24A. The additional torque from the K24 doesn't do any favors for the damper and is working less.

Vibratechnics - $450 I had these for about a month before they drove me nuts at the stop light with the AC on and stock idle. If you have K-Pro, set it to like 900. They did hold the engine well, though.

HardRace Street Version - $350 - I am actually installing all 4 tomorrow and will comment on the additional vibration. They are more similar to OEM but with more rubber.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I’m not exaggerating about the “minimum” amount of vibration. In fact after a 100-200 miles it becomes even a little less noticeable. Do not modify the inserts. Install as is. Try it first and if you disagree with my recommendation feel free to trash me on the forum.
No reason to bash you, if I have a different experience than with you then so be it. The ESMM is going in one way or another. Honestly, I don't track the car ( Maybe one day) for now its my daily, and previously it was used for spirited driving. That being said I do drive it hard (not all the time but I do) and I needed a new exhaust so I figured screw it im going to replace the whole system, I just don't want my headers cracking. I only asked about cutting the ESMM because when I was looking into reviews about how bad the vibration is I came across a video of someone with a Prelude that cut the inserts, one piece being larger and he only used half and said it solved all vibration.

Timestamp 10:08

Again I appreciate any input from any member and if it works better or worse for me so be it.
 

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Thanks for the response I was referring to the DC sports race header though and wondered if they would clear, Also I know there are threads about this and I've read them but if I don't use MM's (because I can't afford them right now) is the header likely to crack with stock mounts if so will ESSM suffice until I can proper MM's
I bought OBX was very happy with the ease of installing. One man show. No fitment issues. 2002 RSX. With full Pro tuning labs 3 inch custom exhaust beautiful ricey tone. Found out the hard way, that local law enforcement don’t much care for it doing a 90 +mph pull in a 40 mph zone. O well wtf lmmfao.
 

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HardRace mounts have been installed and I couldn't have been happier. My K24A hardly moves and the vibrations are very close to stock. My idle is set to 900. At a stoplight with the AC on and the both fans running, vibrations are felt mostly at the steering wheel, but it's not terrible. More importantly there are no rattles from the cabin, and that's saying something considering I have a bunch of loose crap and coins in my car. Driving normally is exactly as stock. Hitting VTEC sounds better and slightly louder because the engine is more connected to the cabin.

I will make another thread with my review. I want to lower the idle to 800 and 750 and see how much more vibrations I get (video to come!). Setting the idle at 900 isn't good for fuel economy.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
This is an update to my original post. Dcsport RH is installed. Now for fitment, it fits perfectly fine other than a couple of things, note I don't have ESMM installed or mounts, ESMM will be installed later this week. This is just an update not a DIY but some helpful notes that may help are the following, Drop the front sway bar it'll make life a lot easier. Upon reinstallation, the torque spec is 45ft-lbs according to the RH instruction, I replaced the bolts because mine were really rusty so for someone else looking to replace them they are an M10x1.25x20 Grade 10.9, I think the imperial grade equivalent is 8. Also, I did this alone and unfortunately scratched up the top of the tubes right near the block, so they are visible from the bay (What can you do shit happens) I recommend a friend to help guide the header up as to not scratch it. Do an oil change, trust me it will be so much easier, drain the oil and remove the filter ( this will allow enough clearance), install the header, and add fresh oil and a new filter.

Now for the header itself (No ESMM) it doesn't bang on the sway bar too much however in reverse it does hit the sway bar and if you accelerate hard it will too. This should be resolved by the ESSM (or mounts). The only other issue I'm having is something is rattling it sounds like my cats heat shield but most of it is rotted anyway so I'm not sure what it is. Once I install the ESSM ill make an update on any sway bar contact and if the rattling is resolved.
 

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This is an update to my original post. Dcsport RH is installed. Now for fitment, it fits perfectly fine other than a couple of things, note I don't have ESMM installed or mounts, ESMM will be installed later this week. This is just an update not a DIY but some helpful notes that may help are the following, Drop the front sway bar it'll make life a lot easier. Upon reinstallation, the torque spec is 45ft-lbs according to the RH instruction, I replaced the bolts because mine were really rusty so for someone else looking to replace them they are an M10x1.25x20 Grade 10.9, I think the imperial grade equivalent is 8. Also, I did this alone and unfortunately scratched up the top of the tubes right near the block, so they are visible from the bay (What can you do shit happens) I recommend a friend to help guide the header up as to not scratch it. Do an oil change, trust me it will be so much easier, drain the oil and remove the filter ( this will allow enough clearance), install the header, and add fresh oil and a new filter.

Now for the header itself (No ESMM) it doesn't bang on the sway bar too much however in reverse it does hit the sway bar and if you accelerate hard it will too. This should be resolved by the ESSM (or mounts). The only other issue I'm having is something is rattling it sounds like my cats heat shield but most of it is rotted anyway so I'm not sure what it is. Once I install the ESSM ill make an update on any sway bar contact and if the rattling is resolved.
Glad to hear the installation and fitment went well. Your header should be fine under regular driving and even some highway pulls. Just don't launch it of course. If the header bolt don't break, the flex pipe will.

What kind of catback do you have?
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Glad to hear the installation and fitment went well. Your header should be fine under regular driving and even some highway pulls. Just don't launch it of course. If the header bolt don't break, the flex pipe will.

What kind of catback do you have?
Sorry If this ends up being a double reply, I made an edit to my previous one, and I'm not sure how many Mods are active to review it, so ill post it again.

I know not to push it too hard but who can resist just hearing it once after an install, either way, ESMM arrive on Thursday and ill put em in.

I have a Yonaka Catback, before someone rips into me for buying an apexi "knockoff" I am well aware of this but for the system and price, the Yonaka sounds pretty good, seems to be made decently and the welds look good. For anyone curious, I spoke to a rep a while back and they switched from mig to tig a couple of years ago, so the welds look a lot cleaner and definitely hold up better. I've got a couple of friends same system one with mig and the other with tig right when they switched and the tig welded one looks a lot cleaner and seems to have held up better but I'm not a welder so take what I say about welds with a grain of salt. Either way, It's definitely an improvement over stock. Once I have the time and funds to push some serious power into this car ill be making a custom exhaust.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Final Update:

Energy Suspension Motor Mounts (Inserts) are in and were they ever a bitch to get in. The front mount went in easy enough, bolts needed some persuasion given they've never been taken out and they are 17 years old but they went in fine. However, the rear mount (Keep in mind I'm in my boiling hot garage and the car is on jack stands so space is limited) was a nightmare. I had to drop the header slightly to get that bolt that went through the bushing out which I knew I would have to do and 2 of the remaining 3 came out easy enough, but as it goes with cars it takes 1 bolt to make a 10-minute job and hour job. The remaining nut was seized in the threaded insert and the bushing was split, meaning the thing just spun, resulting in me not being able to get the bolt out.

( I know the car is rusty, I live in Canada and rust kills all nice things around here)


IMG_5092.jpeg





IMG_5091.jpg


To fix this I replaced it with the proper grade ( Metric 10.9) bolt and nut with a washer on either end, it will hold up fine, given it only happened to one bolt. I also had a rattling problem, it turned to be the metal Rod/hanger (for lack of a better word) that was on the headers. So I just cut it off, you can also bend it out of the way but cutting looks cleaner (then again no one will see it.) For anyone installing RH I don't recommend putting the rubber hanger back on, unlike the factory Cat/Downpipe there is no triangle plate, the metal rod is welded right to the RH, meaning the header will flex as opposed to the small plate flexing, like on the factory one possibly resulting in a crack.

Inkeddc-sports-k20-race-header-4_LI.jpg


Now that the Header and exhaust are in with the ESMM and there is no more annoying rattle, here is my opinion on ESMM. Let me get this out of the way before I say anything, its a hit or miss with these things people either say they barley notice a difference or they make the car a massage chair rattlebox. Now before I give my opinion there is one thing to keep in mind, Unless you have a tune when you install and aftermarket Exhaust system your rpm will drop, I now idle at 750, to correct this you need a tune, Pick up a Hondata or K-Pro depending on your gen
(This is something that you should get in conjunction with bolt-ons). I don't have one yet so I'm being hypocritical but I can deal with the bad Mpg's for a bit. Now that all that is out of the way, ESMM, In my case they are absolutely fine. Coming to a stop around 1.2k - 1k rpm it'll vibrate as if you were going to stall. On idle sure there's a little more vibration through the wheel (barely noticeable in my case) and upon slowing down very very slight vibration in my seat again almost none existent. I don't have AC so I cannot say how much worse the vibration would be had I been using it. The shifting may feel a little tighter but It's totally possible that's in my head. Either way there you go, I think ESMM are great, and other than the stall sensation when slowing to a stop it is almost non-existent for me. Once I get a tune my idle will be fixed and most of the vibration will be gone with it, also to keep in mind I'm writing this after only putting 100kms ( ~ 62miles) on them so the vibration should be almost gone in about 1000kms after they break-in.

I know some people are going to disagree and say that ESMM makes their car rattle like crazy, but my car does not and I'm not sure what factors affect this, either way, that's my final update if anyone has any questions feel free to ask and ill try to answer them.
 
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