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Bundy :cry:
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7,633 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Here’s the Clutch Master Cylinder installation guide. Sorry, but no actual install pictures, I had no camera on me at the time.

Special tools needed:


1. Honda DOT 3 Brake Fluid (about $6) (at least one 12 oz. container)
2. 3/8” Universal joint ($7) – can be obtained at your local Autozone or Advance Auto Parts:
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/catalog/accessories/accessoriesShelf.jsp?categoryDisplayName=Tools&fromType=accessories&fromString=search&parentId=cat10033&filterByKeyWord=joint&currentPage=1&navValue=101209&categoryNValue=100006&fromWhere=&subPartId=prod12055&itemId=prod12055&displayName=Universal+Joint+Socket
3. One-man brake bleeder ($5). You may use anything you like instead; any container with a clear plastic tube should work. This can also be obtained at your local store:
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/catalog/accessories/accessoriesShelf.jsp?categoryDisplayName=Tools&fromType=accessories&fromString=search&parentId=6-10&filterByKeyWord=25036+&currentPage=1&navValue=102056&categoryNValue=100006&fromWhere=&itemId=2056-10&displayName=Brake+Bleeder
4. New CMC. This can be either OEM Acura part, or a 2001 Honda CMC (I installed the latter without any issues).

Regular tools:
1. Torque wrench
2. Metric sockets, driver, metric wrenches
3. Pliers
4. Screwdrivers
5. A rag, an empty container to collect old brake fluid.
 

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Bundy :cry:
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7,633 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
Start by removing the black plastic cover under the dash board in order to access your clutch pedal. Now you have access to the CMC mounting nuts and the clutch pedal. Following the Helms guide, remove the lock pin (A). I didn’t have to pry it, came right out after pulling on it. Next, remove the “pedal pin” (B). Now, unscrew the CMC mounting bolts with 12mm socket. You may find the universal joint useful in this step.




Now you are ready to remove the air box. This is very simple, but here’s Helm’s guide if you need it:



Ok, now our friend Helm tells us to “pull the CMC toward the middle of the engine compartment”. This can be tricky, and I don’t recommend you do it exactly like that. You may have noticed by now, one of the CMC lines is solid, the other one is rubber. The way I recommend doing it is pull it slowly out of its compartment far enough so you can access the fluid lines. Don’t pull it too far, or you may break the solid line.
The next steps I assume that you are willing to flush and replace the brake fluid completely. There are two reasons for that. One, is that it’s likely to be dirty and cloudy (like mine), and two, you end up replacing most of during bleeding process anyway.
 

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Bundy :cry:
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7,633 Posts
Discussion Starter #3


Right now you should have the CMC fairly accessible. Remove the rubber (supply) line from the cmc (see image above). Put the removed end of the hose into an empty container. Open the clutch fluid reservoir and let it drain completely into a container. I chose to rinse and flush the reservoir with some fresh fluid, you may do that as well.
Next is the pressure (output line). Even though the end of this line is hex shaped, you don’t use any wrenches for it. Instead, use a flat-head screwdriver to pry the retaining pin (labeled as B in the second panel). Now the line should come right out and you will once again spill some fluid (put it in the same container with dirty brake fluid).



Time to unwrap your new CMC and put it to use. First, put the clutch reservoir (the clear plastic container you rinsed before) back into place and attach the free end to the new CMC. Also, attach the solid pressure line. I reused the same retaining clip, as the CMC didn’t come with a new one. Use a hammer to put it back in securely. Helm tells you to split one of the ends to make sure it doesn’t come out. I didn’t do it though, it’s pretty tight in there anyway.
Now is the tough part. You need to put the new CMC into its housing. You will have to first put the pedal attachment into the big hole. Next, align and insert the two bolts. This was difficult for me, as the solid line limited the motion of the CMC. Keep trying, they will go in eventually.

Go back inside the cabin and thread the mounting nuts back on. In order to use the torque wrench, you will need the universal joint due to limitation in space. Torque to 13 Nm or 9.4 Lb-ft. Also, put the “pedal pin” back into place and the retaining pin.
 

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Bundy :cry:
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7,633 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Now you are ready to bleed the clutch line. The slave cylinder is located below the throttle body and has a bleeder screw.



The easiest way to do this is to remove the bleeder screw completely and attach a hose to it, rather than trying to reach the screw from the top. Use a small size 8 wrench to loosen the screw and take it out. Again, some fluid will come out from the slave cylinder, which you should contain.



In the picture above you see the bleeder kit I used. Attach one end of the hose to the bleeder screw you took out. Now, thread the screw back into the slave cylinder, but do not tighten it, leave it loose.
Now you may consider using your friend, gf, or mom to help you. Fill the clutch reservoir with fluid. While your friend pumps the clutch pedal slowly, observe the tube for presence of air. At first, there will be hardly any fluid, mostly air. The bleeder can fills fast and the clutch reservoir will empty quickly. Make sure you keep the reservoir filled, otherwise it will suck in air and you have to bleed entire system again. Empty the bleeder periodically also. If you have no friend you can use, you may do it yourself. Just make sure you pump the pedal about 4 times before checking the fluid levels and the presence of bubbles.
Once you see no more bubbles in the tube, remove the hose from the bleeder screw and tighten it with a wrench. Top off the clutch reservoir again and close it. Have your friend push on the clutch pedal to make sure the slave cylinder responds and everything works.

You’re done!
 

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Bundy :cry:
Joined
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7,633 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
what makes the ex cmc better than say the si or type s cmc??
No triangular plate... But I don't know if it's that much better, it's just cheaper and known to be reliable. :dontknow:
 

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Maximum Plaid FTW
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722 Posts
The one man bleeder kit from Autozone is probably similar to the one used by OP: here and it's for $7.99, available in store. The one that was linked in the OP's info is for $13.99 and had to be special order.
 
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