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O.G. '02 RSX-S
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5,645 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Escort ZR3 shifter installation

Alright, so I am not sure of how your traffic enforcement in your jurisdiction is, but where I live, its 95% Lidar (laser) here. I have the Escort 8500 X50, but its worthless with laser, as with its narrow beam, it will only go off if the officer hits your windshield, and even if he does, by the time you hear a beep on your detector, the cop will already be looking at the digits on his lidar gun.

Some people may ask if this is legal. Technically, yes. Since lasers are governed by the FDA, local law enforcement has no jurisdiction on whether or not you can shift their lasers. Now radar (X,K,Ka bands) is a whole new ballgame. If you jam those with a radar jammer, then that is illegal.

Basically how this device works is when you turn the system on, it will basically act like a “force field” for lasers. If you were to be hit from the front or back, the system will basically shatter the return signal going back to the lidar gun, thus giving no speed reading. When this does happen, the device will let you know if you are being hit from the front or rear. There is a mute button that you can mount an external button somewhere accessible, or use the one on the control unit. Once you press it twice, it will shut the system off and let the officer get a reading on your speed, not giving you much attention. So this gives you time to slow down if you are going above the speed limit.

You have the option of running a seperate wire to the 8500 X50 so you don't need the control box, and a remove mute switch if you so desire.

Ok, so here is the items you will need:
Escort Zr3 laser shifter
Stainless mounting screws (optional)
Wire tap





Tools you will need:
Flathead screwdriver
Razor blade
Drill & bits
Angled 45 degree Phillips screwdriver
Wire cutters
Pliers



Rear Sensor:

I didn’t have access to the camera when I mounted the rear sensor which attaches to the license plate. It is recommended to mount this on the bottom so your license plate illumination is not blocked, as this sensor protrudes out about 1”. I just pulled off the rear bumper, fed the wire through the existing grommet where the license plate light wire goes into. I started it and pushed it in with a flathead screwdriver, no cutting of the grommet is required. I then gave a little slack on the wire for the rear bumper so it could be removed without the wire being too short, about 2’ of extra wire. I then routed the wire through the trunk, under the driver side door jam, and then under the dash near the glovebox area.

Front Sensors & Control Box:

1. Remove front bumper and driver side fender lining by removing the appropriate clips and screws.



2. The front sensors need to be mounted in between the license plate and be level to the ground +/- 5% to work properly. I lined up the sensor bracket as shown and marked the holes in the center so they could be turned for front aiming. The DC5 front bumper is tough to judge since it has a wedge shape to it.



3. Mark the holes with a drill bit score and drill the holes smaller than the actual screws you will be using. The kit comes with mounting screws, but I am anal and paid $1.00 for some stainless screws to prevent any rust.



4. Once you drilled the holes, go ahead and mount the bracket and turn it to your best judgement forward.



5. Now you can go ahead and mount the front sensor to the mounting brackets. You can leave them a little loose for final tweaking once you have the front bumper mounted back onto the car.

 

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O.G. '02 RSX-S
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5,645 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 ·
6. Move the front bumper close to the car where it will be remounted. Now here is where you will run the wires into the car. Take your razor and make a slit in the gromitt. You will see there is an existing hole in the grommet on the inside portion of it, so no cutting for the rear. Once you cut that slit, go ahead and put one connector through and push it through till its going through that back hole. Pull it through about 6”. Repeat the process for the 2nd wire and connector.





7. Put the grommet back into place by pushing firmly and go inside the car and start pulling the wires a little more until you’ve estimated the length you will need for where the wire terminal box will be mounted (I chose behind the glovebox area).



8. Go ahead and put a few tie straps attaching the wires to the hood release cable to help secure the wires. Clip off the remaining ends with the wire cutters





9. Carefully put the front bumper back on and make sure the wires are not hanging down the bottom or in the way of anything else. Now would be a good time to align the sensors as best as possible for +/- 5% and use the angled screwdriver to tighten the screws.



 

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O.G. '02 RSX-S
Joined
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5,645 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
10. Once you have the bumper on, you can start routing the wires through some existing wires under the dash so they are not hanging loosely. I chose to route the wires right where the center console meets the dashboard (near the gas pedal there is a passage). Pull those wires through.







11. Remove the lower panel on the passenger side by pushing those tabs in the center. Next open the glovebox and remove the tabs on each side so the glovebox can fold down all the way. Now you can route the wires towards the left side of where the glovebox will be closed.

12. I mounted the terminal towards the left of the glovebox, only thing is, if you put the left tab back into the glovebox, it won’t open as far because the rubber bumper will be resting on top of the terminal – not a big deal for me. You can now plug in the wires for the front and rear sensors.



13. I am planning on mounting the control panel under the radio by having a stereo shop cut a hole in the panel, but where you mount yours is up to you. I have seen many mounted on top of the steering cluster. Mount the control where you want to and run the wire to the terminal and plug it in.

14. I tapped into the cigarette lighter (using a wire tap going into the yellow wire) for the power source and found a screw on the lower right of the glove box for the ground on the terminal wiring.



15. Turn the ignition on and see if the unit works. The rear should blink, then the front, and then make a beep letting you know you are ready to go.



16. Put the glovebox tabs back on and the lower panel and you should be ready to go.
 

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+2 doors, +2 cylinders
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106 Posts
very nice write up
you have any more info on laser shifters or why you got one?
 

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Registered
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74 Posts
I also have the ZR3, and I have definately saved some $$ from tickets. I dont speed everywhere, but when I do, this thing has saved me. I have it hooked inline with the 8500. Just the other day, a cop sat behind an offramp exit sign shooting laser, my unit light up and I continued past him at 15mph over speed limit to prevent the guy behind me from rear ending me if i braked. Good install:thumbsup:
 

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O.G. '02 RSX-S
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5,645 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)

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iHeartDC5's
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874 Posts
nice dude! great mod, i'll def use this is if i ever install the zr3.

any review coming soon?
 

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O.G. '02 RSX-S
Joined
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5,645 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
Funny thing is I have never encountered a laser trap since I installed this thing. Last year I was hit repeatedly, but wasn't speeding at the moment...

However I have been hit three times at red light cameras (since they use laser to track how fast you go through insections running red lights), once on the front and twice on the rear, it went blaring showing me where I was being hit. So I am actually looking forward to a laser trap.

Wasn't expensive, I picked it up on ebay and haggled with the seller a little I think...
 

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Super Moderator
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23,895 Posts
i've thought about upgrading to one of these... but my car just sticks out like a dick in a lesbian bar and no radar detector or lazer protector will save me...
 
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