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Discussion Starter #1
Hello RSX Enthusiasts. The reason behind this DIY is to attempt to correct vagueness/issues regarding the Fuel Gauge needle. My RSX had symptoms of the fuel gauge reading fine at the Full tank of gas, and while gas decreases, the needle tends to stop either half way, or 3/4th of the way down. 95% of the time I am unable to identify low fuel readings correctly, which led me to always count my miles. I reset my trip to 0 miles every time I get gas, and drive until 300 miles (just to be safe), and fill up at around 330 miles.

When I first purchased the car, I wanted to see if my fuel gauge worked, and unfortunately I had run out of gas at about 385-400 or so miles. So if you are experiencing any sort of inaccuracy of the fuel gauge, this may be beneficial to you.

Thanks to all the DIYs regarding Fuel Pump, Rear seat removal, I was able to easily make my way into the fuel tank relatively easy. I went through as many steps as I could to clarify things up.

Tools Required for the DIY:
  • Mallet
  • Socket Extension
  • 10MM Socket
  • Ratchet
  • Phillips Screwdriver
  • Flathead Screwdriver (Not Pictured)
  • Gloves (If you would like)
  • Mallet
  • Plastic Bags
  • Old Rag
  • Flashlight (Not Pictured)
  • Needle Nose Pliers (Not Pictured)
  • Q-Tip (One or two)


Step 1: Remove rear seats. Start with the passenger rear backrest. 4 of 10MM bolts will be holding the backrest in place. Remove those 4 bolts. Slide the backrest out of place.




Step 2: Remove the driver side rear backrest by removing the 2 bolts. The remainder bolt will be where the rear center bracket is located. Remove that bolt as well. Set the bracket aside. Slide out the driver rear back rest.





Step 3: Remove the rear bench. There is only 1 bolt holding it in place, as well as 2 clips, one on each side. Simply pull up where your passenger should be sitting, and it will pop out of place. Slide the bench out of place.




Step 4: Remove Fuel tank plate. With your screwdriver, unscrew 4 screws holding the plate in place.



Note the connector behind it. With your flathead, pry it upwards from the sides while holding down on the clip to remove it.



Step 5: Remove fuel hose. Get your rag ready. Depending on how much fuel is left in the tank, gas will flow out from this hose. Press inwards on the white ends sticking out from the connection. Pull the hose away. Absorb all the gas that has leaked out from both the pump and the hose.




Step 6: Remove the black ring. With your extender and mallet, tap at the ring counter-clockwise multiple times until you are able to unscrew it by hand.



Step 7: Remove Fuel Pump unit. Please be aware of the gasket underneath. Carefully maneuver the unit out of the opening. Although it may seem difficult, as long as you are patient, you will find that it is relatively easy to do so. Place the unit on plastic bags to prevent any fuel from dripping everywhere.
 

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I <3 DIYs
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139 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
Step 8: Inspect the unit. Note that the unit has two springs as well as it can bend to an extent.






Step 9: Inspect the Fuel Reader or Fuel Sender (unsure what it is called). Move the floater around to see if the needle separates from the board. With some gasoline and a q-tip, wipe the surface of the board to remove excess dirt or contamination from it. With the needle nose pliers, slightly bend the metal to ensure that it is always in contact with the board.



Step 10 (Optional): Test the fuel gauge. Plug the fuel pump back in to the connector. Make sure both connectors are dry and not wet from fuel. Put the key in the ignition and on position II. Move the floater up and down, making note of the actions of the fuel gauge needle.

Step 11: Re-install the fuel pump unit. After you are satisfied with the minor adjustments, replace the unit back into place. Slightly bend the unit so that it is easier to maneuver it back into the opening. Once the majority of it is in place, slip the rubber gasket back around the metal opening. Now press the top of the unit so that the springs underneath compress, while being aware of the gasket. Make sure the rubber does not slip into the fuel tank.

Step 12: Re-Install Black Ring. Once the fuel pump unit is pressed back into proper place, screw the ring back on. Once it is hand-tightened, make note of the Guide Marks (mine was yellow) so that you can use your mallet and extension and tap it back into spec.




Step 13: Connect hose and connector. Ensure that they both snap into place.

Step 14: Install the plate cover, Install bench, then install driver and passenger backrests.


All done! Clean up, and hopefully this has resolved your fuel gauge issues as it did mine. Thanks for reading! :drink::love::beerchug:
 

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I just installed a newer fuel pump into my car because my old one started leaking. I was on empty fuel, installed the new fuel pump(no more leakage), went to the gas station and pumped 4.5 gallons. so i start to drive around town and 12 miles later my gas indicator went from above half tank to 1/4 tank and it does not move from there. Will this diy help me?
my new fuel pump is from a 06 type-s with 80k miles
 

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I <3 DIYs
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139 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Nice write up.
But you don't need to remove the back rest to remove the bench.
Oh thank you, I didnt know. I could have saved some time 😁
 

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I <3 DIYs
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139 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
I just installed a newer fuel pump into my car because my old one started leaking. I was on empty fuel, installed the new fuel pump(no more leakage), went to the gas station and pumped 4.5 gallons. so i start to drive around town and 12 miles later my gas indicator went from above half tank to 1/4 tank and it does not move from there. Will this diy help me?
my new fuel pump is from a 06 type-s with 80k miles
This may be the case, from what i saw, if the little metal contact doesnt touch, the fuel gage will not move. I'm currently testing my gauge by driving my car around to ensure that I solved my issue. Good luck! And i will update accordingly when my results satisfy me.

Have a good one!
 

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I <3 DIYs
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Discussion Starter #9


Hello again everyone. So good news is my gauge is much more accurate than before, and I am very happy with the outcome. However it is still unable to show me the Low Fuel indicator, which is unfortunate. I ran my tank dry just now as a test, and the gas ran out before the light came on. As of now, I don't know what my next step is to get that light to work.
 

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Im having similar problems. I replaced my 2002 rsx base model fuel pump with a 2005 base model fuel pump because it was making a whirring sound and not sending enough gas. My gas gauge was off before, but now it stays around half a tank, always. Going to try this needle bending method on my day off.
 

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DC5
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4,573 Posts
Im having similar problems. I replaced my 2002 rsx base model fuel pump with a 2005 base model fuel pump because it was making a whirring sound and not sending enough gas. My gas gauge was off before, but now it stays around half a tank, always. Going to try this needle bending method on my day off.
i cleaned mine and it didnt change so i bought another fuel cage and swapped it. All fixed now... i spent 50$
 

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I <3 DIYs
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139 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
great photos!
Thank you sir!

i cleaned mine and it didnt change so i bought another fuel cage and swapped it. All fixed now... i spent 50$
Yep. If in the case this doesn't fix anything, time for a new one!

Very nice. Fuel gauge is highly inaccurate right now. Just need to find the time to do this
Good luck sir. This process helped solve my issue with the fuel gauge for only a short amount of time. It went back to the same problem and now I plan on replacing the unit as xxyauxxdc5 did.
 
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