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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Finally got it done, after collecting parts for a few months :D

Before the haters ask "why didn't you just go aftermarket?", let me just say that I spent around $100US on this whole thing, including getting ripped off on 2 gaskets at the dealership.

The car pulls harder now, revs up faster, and doesn't lose any power near redline. You'll feel it for sure at 5500 rpm+, it opens up more.

Things to note:
-this whole swap is bolt on... only mod I had to do was free up the first (blue colored) O2 sensor so it could reach the new cat. Next thing, the cat is FREAKING heavy when you're on your back!!! I had to use another floor jack to prop it into position.

-If you plan to do this swap, take off the stock header bracket at the bottom. The holes don't line up with the S header anyways. For some reason, i left it there. Now it rattles like a bitch.

-I couldn't get the bolts off where the stock cat and b-pipe join. Seized up like a mofo... so, seeing I recently did a cat swap on an ITR, I already knew what size nuts to buy from Canadian Tire. M10 #61-2548-0 is what you're looking for... they're 17mm instead of the 14, but it fits.

-you do NOT need a new manifold gasket, stock one fits fine. I'd replace it anyways, since you're in there.

-It took me 3.5 hours to do the swap alone... i recommend you get a friend to help out, as it'll be easier/faster to get the pieces line up. They're heavy when you're on your back on the ground (I didn't use a hoist).

And, here's the pics:

Base exhaust manifold (before removal):


Type S exhaust manifold (installed):


Exhaust manifold removed:


Left: Base/stock exhaust manifold, Right: Type S exhaust manifold


Left: Base/stock collector, Right: Type S collector



Removal of stock axel back:


Left: Type S, Right: stock






The whole cat-back laid out:


Install finished:
 

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I Heart Kelly Clarkson
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Thanks for posting the write up! I currently have all the pieces for the entire exhaust swap except for the downpipe/catalytic converter, which is the most expensive part. Sounds like you got a deal of a lifetime at $100 including gaskets! :thumbsup: I have a couple of questions for you:

1. Can you use the Base heat shield on the Type S header or would I have to buy a Type S heat shield to fit on the header?

2. I'm assuming that since you bought new gaskets, that you can't use the base gaskets for the Type S exhaust. If you don't mind me asking, how much are the gaskets?

Thanks again!
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I haven't put the heat shield back, so I'm not sure if the base one would fit... I'll find out tommorow...

and yes, the base gasket fits... I changed it anyways, since I had it apart... the Type S one is a bit bigger, but still fits. I also changed the gasket after the cat. The manifold gasket was $20cdn, and the prechamber gasket was $11cdn.
 

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Department's Peon
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great job man welcome to the base with type-S exhaust family!! hey icy no u don need to buy a type-s heat shield... the base heat shield works fine.
 

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any plans for a race header anytime soon, or are you pretty much satisified with the type-s setup?
 

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I belive I am the Godfather of base to type s exhuast swap, lol. But glad everything worked out nicely. Yeah take those bolts out so the rattle will stop. I unscrewed them then took a hammer and flat head and knocked them cause the brace that went along the bolt was in the way to screw out completely. But I'm glad to see so many people do it. I am the firsy to do it,then yeahi. He was second to do it, also he used aftermarket parts. So through u and me yeahi we caused an epedemic of base to type s swaps, lol.
 

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R.I.P Turbo'ed base auto
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lol. too bad i wasted money on that stuff, im selling it all now because i just decided to go turbo. lol but hey we can say we started it. I'd recommend it, you can get stock type-s stuff for like next to nothing.
 

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stop stealing my avatar!
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here's my question for you guys.. hope one of you can answer it...
what's the length of the primaries on the headers for the base and the type-s? from pigpens' pictures i'm thiking 16" base and 14" type-s?
what about tube diameters? i'm guessing 1.5" ID?

so based on the length of 16" and a 1.5" diameter, i figure the base is optimized for 6430rpm, and with a 14" diameter on the S, i figure it's optimized for 7360 rpm.

going through the specs, i notice that the base peaks hp at 6500 and type-s peaks at 7400 with a stock setup, so i dont think my calcualtions are far off.

now correct me if i'm wrong, but does it seem like by putting on a type-s header we're just shifting the curve over by 900rpm?

if this is the case, then why bother? we'd be optimizing for an RPM that without a flash, our cars couldnt' even obtain (i shift at just over 7k).

my next question is... would this also cause a loss on low end torque?

if someone has a stock vs. type-s header-back dyno, i'd really appreciate taking a look at it...

anyone care to clue me in? or am i completely missing something here?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Abstraction said:
going through the specs, i notice that the base peaks hp at 6500 and type-s peaks at 7400 with a stock setup, so i dont think my calcualtions are far off.

now correct me if i'm wrong, but does it seem like by putting on a type-s header we're just shifting the curve over by 900rpm?
Type S has has "sport" tuned IM where as the base has its dual stage IM... they're different animals, so unless I go ahead and change my IM to the Type S one, and get an EP3 ecu, it's NOT going to suddenly jump to 7400 peak. However, I have no dyno proof on this...

Also, given the similarities of the EP3 hatch and the base rsx, you can use DC Sports for more info... the EP3 has the k20A2 IM, but if you get the DC shorty 4-2-1, its the same part # for the rsx and civic. If the shorty header were to move up the peak 900 rpm, then DC would have failed (i'm not saying they succeeded either, but I'm sure they put some engineering into it).

Finally, if you take a look at base rsx dyno's, you'd notice that Hp drops after ~6500 rpm. Now, lets give the slightly shorter (its not more then an inch shorter) S manifold a more realistic bump in peak, you'd lose the die off as well. I don't like using EP3 data, but thats all that there seems to be... take a look at this: http://www.dcsports.com/images/dyno/kseries.jpg with the obviously shorter 4-2-1, power peaked at 6800 rpm, instead of around 6400-6500, even with the sportier IM on the EP3.

and my butt-dyno says it improved... so thats final :)
 

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should i get a high flow cat welded into the typeS catalytic converter? right now I have all the components but i'm not sure if i should weld in a high flow. I have the HP header, typeS catalytic converter, typeS catback & muffler waiting to be installed on my 5spd
 
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