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Engineering
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
okay so i told someone i would make a writeup and here it is...this is for wiring up an OEM fog switch to a replica harness. it's pretty basic, you just need to understand the concept of how a circuit works. the pins on the OEM switch go like this:
pin 1-Power/Live wire
pin 2-Positive, this completes the circuit for the on/off function
pin 3-Power/Live wire for illumination
pin 4-Ground/Negative for illumination
pin 5-Ground/Negative for on/off function

there may be a common misconception, pin 1 starts at the BOTTOM of the switch and it goes up.

FIRST AND FOREMOST: ALWAYS DISCONNECT YOUR BATTERY!

1. cut off replica harness plug. this is what mine looks like, it has only 4 pins, and go like so:
pin 1-Power/Live wire
pin 2-Positive, completes circuit
pin 3-Power/Live wire for illumination
pin 4-Ground/Negative for on/off and switch

2. solder (for best connection) 5 16-18 gauge wires to the 5 pins on the OEM switch

3. wrap electrical tape around the pins
4. Connect like so:
5---->this one goes straight to the ground bolt
4---->4 on replica harness
3---->3 on replica harness
2---->2 on replica harness
1---->1 on replica harness
you may have been able to use without the 5th pin, but i just wanted to be safe
5. once that is complete, you are about ready to push the switch into the slot

6. now push it into the slot

7. looks nice doesn't it? now with the lights on

8. and now with the fogs on


here is a picture of the ground bolt in case you were wondering where it was:


DISCLAIMER: may not work exactly this way with all replica harnesses, but same basic concept
 

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WWJDMD?
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1,477 Posts
You can actually tap 4 and 5 together. So you don't have to run another ground to the chasis. Either way it works. :thumbsup:
 

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Engineering
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25,578 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
yeah that's what i was thinking but i was like what the heck and grounded both.
 

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Engineering
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25,578 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
on my replica harness, i had a green plug (goes to switch), a 4 pin white plug (goes into the fuse box), two 1 pin brown connectors (red wire connects to hanging fog wire, the other is a white wire and it goes into the fuse box), and a ground
 

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Off That
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on my replica harness, i had a green plug (goes to switch), a 4 pin white plug (goes into the fuse box), two 1 pin brown connectors (red wire connects to hanging fog wire, the other is a white wire and it goes into the fuse box), and a ground
Yeah, so did I.

Ah well. I fiddled around with it for awhile but I'll have to give it another shot.
 

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Engineering
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25,578 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
post a pic of your harness and i'll see if i can figure it out
 

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Engineering
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25,578 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
brown connector? you mean the OEM switch or the brown connector near the fuse box? its hanging right in front of it, has a blue wire connected to it
 

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Engineering
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Discussion Starter #14
the brown thing is not a plug, that is part of the OEM switch, there was more covering the pins but i cut that off to expose the pins. that is how you know its an OEM pin, it's brown
 

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SLAMMED
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I did this at work 2day and its not working for me either. the only thing that i did different is that i tried to ground the 4th and 5th wire on the oem switch to the black wire on the relica
 

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Engineering
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25,578 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
well that black wire on your replica should be your ground/negative as well, does your harness have a ground on it?
 

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Registered
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2,290 Posts
you think its ok if on the replica harness:
pin 1-Power/Live wire
and
pin 3-Power/Live wire for illumination

switch around? i went to a cut happy mode and got it mixed around. can anyone answer this? i dont want to blow a fuse

should be alright right, cause they are the same color wire?
 

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Engineering
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25,578 Posts
Discussion Starter #20
well the pin 1 power wire is what powers the on/off function. pin 1 power wire and pin 2 positive wire in conjunction with one another to form a circuit. switching pin 1 and pin 3 wires will not make it work, if i am correct. if you connect pin 3 wire to pin 1, your switch will stay in the constant on position, even if you press the button. you won't blow a fuse unless it is not grounded
 
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