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I hate VVT4ME
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553 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Took this from the cb7 forums. this post is from cokinut and i am not taking credit, simply reposting..

cokinut said:
I’m not responsible for any damages to you or your car.
Pictures are used for a guide only.


EDITED Extra notes: (09.17.04)

Use a 3/8" fuel / fuel injection hose from your local auto store. you will only need the 2 ft. one, but it will cost around $4 for 2ft. I changed hoses so many times because:

1. i've heard the vinyl braiding hose will warp due to the high engine temps.

2. the silicone, when it heats up, gets soft and collapses.

3. air hose i.d. 300 psi.


Disregard the pictures of the vinyl braiding tubing and silicone hose. imagine that it is fuel hose. :)

Purpose: (thanks to turbopanda from Honda tech)
In an engine, there are two areas of air pockets in which the air is not directly related to combustion. Within these two areas, oil and air are separated from the combustion chambers and coolant jackets for the purpose of lubrication of the engine. The upper air and oil pocket is constrained by the valve cover at the top, and the valve seals at the lower end. The bottom air and oil pocket is constrained by the piston rings at the top and the oil pan in the bottom.
In a perfect world, these two lubrication areas would not pressurize. However, in real life compression leaks by valve seals and piston rings in what is called blow-by. Blow by introduces pressure into the two pockets of air and oil (the head and the crankcase). In addition, heat caused as a byproduct of combustion causes air molecules to expand which also causes the pressure to increase in these lubrication areas. If no ventilation system was employed to release this pressure, it would find the point of least resistance to escape, which could be oil seals...or worse.
To relieve this pressure, a system called Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV for short) is used. It is a closed system that takes the pressurized air and oil vapor from these two lubrication areas and introduces it back into the combustion chamber, by way of vacuum caused by the intake charge.


Parts / Price List:
You can get most, if not all, of these products are your local hardware store. If not, then good luck finding some


- air / water separator tank for air compressors = $15

- (2) ¼” male barbs - $1.50/each

- (optional) (2) ¼” elbow fittings = $2.20/each

- Teflon tape = $$0.75
- (4) 5/8”-1/4” clamps = $.79/each

- 2 ft 3/8" fuel / fuel injection hose = $4.00 at an auto store

- steel wool = $1.50

- total cost of project: $33 or $28 minus the ¼” elbows
 

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I hate VVT4ME
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553 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 ·
cokinut said:
Instructions:
1. take out the filter from the air/water separator tank. You don’t need this since the steel wool will act as a baffle for the oil.

2. Stuff enough steel wool in the container to fill it up comfortably. What this does is keep the oil at the bottom of the tank and prevent the vacuum pressure from sucking up the oil from the bottom of the tank.

3. get the 2 (optional) ¼” elbow fittings and put teflon tape on the threads

This step is optional because depending on location, you may not need the elbows. They just provide a better fit for the hose in the engine bay.
4. Screw them onto either end of the air/water separator tank.

5. get your 2 ¼” male barbs and telfon tape the threads on those.
6. place the one male barb on each of the elbow fittings.


7. Make sure everything is tight.


8. Find a spot to mount your new oil catch can (air/water separator)
9. Notice on top of the air/water separator, there is an arrow indicating the air flow – remember that when attaching the hoses.
10. remove the old hose attaching the pcv valve to the intake manifold.
11. Get your 5/8” vinyl braided hose, cut one piece to go from your pcv valve to the inlet of the air/water separator.
12. remember to clamp down the ends.
13. cut another piece of hose to from the outlet of the air/water tank to the intake manifold nipple where the pcv hose thing used to attach to.

 

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Zero Tolerance 4 Retards
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809 Posts
You should use the filter/baffle assembly that came with the separator. It is designed to filter oil and water from the inlet air. The plastic parts that hold the filter in place act as a baffle to create a sump that causes the water/oil to drip to the bottom of the container. The steel wool is not actually acting as a baffle, it is just catching some of the oil as the inlet air comes in contact with it. The baffle/filter that comes with the separator actually forces the oil/water out of the inlet air.
 
G

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Good job and thanks for sharing. "Husky" catch-can FTW. :thumbsup: I mounted mine to the FSTB with aluminum brackets for the sport fishing industry.
 

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this is my inner child
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3,954 Posts
Holy shit, that mounting bracket is awesome. Wish I had that when I was trying to mount my GReddy catch can.
 

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Projectors....Mmmmmm
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2,271 Posts
What are those catch cans for?


Nevermind...reading > me
 

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turbo=neverending debt
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878 Posts
thank you very much for this post! I really appreciate it. Couple of questions tho. That seperator tank looks kinda small compared to the catch cans that are being sold. Will that seperator be big enough to hold all the blow by? also, can you show me any pics of where the hoses attach on the intake manifold?
 

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I hate VVT4ME
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553 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
yeah.. just empty it out everytime you change your oil... if you have enough blow by to fill one of those big catch cans you got some problems
 

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American HP!!
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25,617 Posts
I don't think they sell over the net, but I bought them at my local Sportsman's Warehouse. They are a bracket for clamping fishing rod cups to the aluminum railing on boats. About $15 apiece, IIRC...

http://www.sportsmanswarehouse.com/fishing.cfm
Ahhh OK, I'll check out some of my local boating places see if I find something similar :thumbsup:

I'll hit you with some +rep again as soon as I can
 
G

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thank you very much for this post! I really appreciate it. Couple of questions tho. That seperator tank looks kinda small compared to the catch cans that are being sold. Will that seperator be big enough to hold all the blow by? also, can you show me any pics of where the hoses attach on the intake manifold?
I need to drain mine at least once per month and the effluent seems to mostly fuel, with some oil in it. It smells strongly of gasoline. The infeed line is from the PCV outlet and the return line goes back to your manifold.
 

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Engineering
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25,578 Posts
NA motors wouldn't really need this would they? lol i'm looking for a cheap mod to do
 

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turbo=neverending debt
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878 Posts
I need to drain mine at least once per month and the effluent seems to mostly fuel, with some oil in it. It smells strongly of gasoline. The infeed line is from the PCV outlet and the return line goes back to your manifold.
i cant find my helms manual. any visuals?
 
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