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I miss my DC5
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1,736 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys, I just put in my Omni CMC and wished someone had written up a DIY, so I thought I would to help the rest of you out.
First off, let me say, the Omni Power clutch master cylinder is SICK. It feels so much better than stock. Shifts are so quick and crisp. No more missing shifts either. The pedal feels much stiffer, and the distance you have to press the clutch to disengage it is greatly reduced. I probably have to press the pedal 3/4'' to shift. I highly recommend this product... especially if your stock one is broken.

ANYWAY, The DIY.
Hopefully this will help. Sorry I didnt take more pics. Good luck.

The clutch master cylinder is locaded directly behind the clutch pedal.

step1- tilt your steering wheel up, move your driver seat back, and (optional) remove the bolt on your door that prevents you from opening it farther.

step2- lay on your back in the driver side footwell, and find the master cylinder. There is a bolt through the main rod that connects it to the clutch pedal. There is a cotterpin through the bolt. You must twist the pin to pull it out. Pull it out, detatching the cmc from the clutch pedal.
**The pin:


Step3- remove the two bolts on the master cylinder. They are either 10mm or 12mm. Once you remove these, the master cylinder will be loose.
**view of master cylinder from driver side foot well with the bolts removed


Step4- In the engine compartment, remove your airbox/ram air intake. Find your clutch line. I took the whole thing out. You may not have to. There are two 12mm bolts on the slave cylinder (on the transmission near the front of the car). Take these off, unsnap the steel clutch line from the transmission, and unbolt the line support from the frame.

Step5- Find the master cylinder. It's pretty much above the driver side wheel, next to the brake master cylinder. If you follow the line from the reservoir, it leads right to it. Reach in there and pull the master cylinder out. it has two lines connected to it. Being sure not to lose too much fluid, pull the reservoir line off of the master cylinder. (I put a bolt from the slave cylinder in the tube to avoid losing much fluid.
**bolt in reservoir tube.


Now the fun stuff--
Step6- pull all the crap out; master cylinder, clutch line, slave cylinder, everything.


**This is the stuff the kit came with.

I had to go out and buy the (copper) crush washers.

Step7- put together the stuff you got. (where the braided line attaches must be tight enough to crush in the copper a little bit to make a good seal. If it's not tight enough, your clutch fluid will leak out and your performance will suffer.)
It comes out like this, and you'll have one weird bolt left over. That other bolt is an adapter. When you've put it together it'll look like this...


note: The input and outputs are switched from the oem one.

Step8- disconnect the old clutch master cylinder and attach the adapter bolt in its place as shown.

** it should look like this


Step9- If your new master cylinder didnt come with the pedal connector like mine didnt, you have to use the one from the original cmc. Use pliers/channel locks to hold the rod while you unscrew the connector and bolt. (This part was a pain in the butt)


Step10- put the connecter and bolt on the new master cylinder like it was on the old one.

Step11- attach the reservoir tube on the new master cylinder and put the CMC in where it goes. Inside the driver side footwell, bolt it back in with the two bolts. you will connect the pedal last.

Step12- reattach the slave cylinder and baseline clutch line (the part on the transmission). This uses two bolts for the slave cylinder, and one snap for the baseline.

Step13-Connect the braided line to the adapter that is already on the original line. This step completes the clutch line.

Step14- attach the line to the frame as it was originally.

Step15- attach the CMC to the pedal as it was originally.

Step16-Bleed the clutch **do NOT let the reservoir get empty. Bubbles in the system will kill the compression. Use DOT3 or DOT4 brake fluid.

Step17- Adjust the pedal connector to have less play in it.

CLUTCH IS DONE.

Step18-put your intake back in

Step19- tell all your friends how much better your clutch is than theirs.

Step20- Drive fast and shift quickly without missing any shifts.


Good luck and let me know if you have any questions. It's kind of a pain to install, but its definitely worth it, especailly if your oem one busted. If you have an aftermarket clutch, your oem master cylinder will likely bust pretty soon like mine did.
 

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I miss my DC5
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1,736 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
how do you know when your clutch master cylinder goes bad?
I knew mine was bad because I heard a snap and the pedal sank to the floor without disengaging the clutch. also, I'd been missing second gear at high rpms.

what kind of clutch are you running? i heard this in combo with a stiff clutch makes the pedal really stiff.
I'm running a competition clutch stage two carbon kevlar full disk.
The omni cmc does make the pedal pretty stiff, but it's sooo much better than stock. I only have to press the pedal in like 1/2'' to disengage the clutch. My shifts are like three times as fast now. You'd have to try it to get it. But if your cmc is bad, definitely go for the upgrade. The RSX cmc is made to fail. I hear the Civic one is pretty good on durability, but its still going to behave like stock. I didnt expect to love the omni cmc nearly as much as I do. I'm sure you can tell, I cant stop raving about it.:thumbsup:

And to the guy who said I make it look easy, -It's pretty difficult without instructions, especially when you dont know where the cmc is when you start. I wish someone had written it up earlier. I did it over the course of 3 days, but you can probably do it in an hour and a half if you have all the tools and parts ready. It costs around $300 to have acura do it for you.

Thanks for the support guys, maybe I'll keep doing DIYs.
 

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I miss my DC5
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1,736 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
nice i was debating on doing this, but my CC stage 4 is already stiff as fuck and i couldnt imagine how stiff it would be in combo with this
I would definitely do it. the pedal will be stiff, but you barely have to tap it to shift because the ratios are so different. with a stage four, your stock cmc is likely to blow out over and over.

very nice write up!
Thanks buddy, I really appreciate it.
 

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I miss my DC5
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1,736 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
how much does this replacement go for?
assuming youre talking about the omni power clutch master cylinder, their site lists it for $180. I got it for $123 from a member on here who had an extra laying around. ClubRSX has it in the parts store for $153. If you aren't lucky enough to find a new one from a private seller, I would buy it from CRSX. 153 is not a bad price.
 

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Looks like the bandwith has been exceeded on your photobucket account. I can't see the pics now.

I scoped this project out last night and didn't realize how tucked back there the CMC was. I had to use a flashlight to even see it :) Wish I had a CAI instead of my icebox so I wouldn't have to take my airbox out. I've also got a thick Comptech strutbar that might get in the way.
 

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I miss my DC5
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1,736 Posts
Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
Thanks for letting me know, I'll delete some pics in the account.
Yeah, I have a v2 ram air intake, and I had to take it out. Pulling out the stock icebox isnt that hard. There may be a diy on it somewhere. And yes, the CMC is very tucked in there! good luck!


edit:
..well crap.
I dont know how to reduce bandwidth. I think its because so many people downloaded the images from my account (multiple diy threads). So now all of the pics in my DIYs aren't working... does anyone know how to fix this? I dont want to pay to upgrade to pro. You guys are great and all, but Im not paying money so you can have some pics to look at while you work on your car. haha
If anyone knows how to make the pics show up, please let me know.
 
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