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Here I have a DIY video(29 minute video) on a Type S Power Steering Pump rebuild/overhaul. If you are interested in saving yourself money, then look here to rebuild your pump! Good luck and enjoy!

Parts List of what you need(ignore the highlighted entries, you need all of them).


Here is the video!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lVpb9lrSGDg
 

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Hello
I am buying the parts from the list but the last item tells me that it is not compatible with the acura rsx type S (91345-RJL-003)
 

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If I remember correctly, I opted for that o-ring because the 12.7x1.8 o-ring has a tendency to leak soon. It was the same one used in the 03-08 TL power steering pumo, but then they changed the part number to a 13.0x1.9 o-ring to fix the leak issue that the TL's had. I used the 12.7x1.8 before and it did leak rather soon. Since I went with the part number that you have a question about, it has not leaked.
 

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I just reinstalled my rebuilt power steering pump today. Saw the video on YouTube and thought why not since I bought a $50 pump off ebay to replace the OEM because of a leak. I had a pump to rebuild without taking the car down untill parts came in. Well, the cheap ebay pump just whinned like crazy. Changed the LP and HP O Rings to no avail. I couldn't stand it. Reminded me of a Ford. So, I checked my Service Manual and decided I needed a torque wrench to do the job properly.
Off to Harbor Freight and their Parking lot sale and got the 1/4 and 3/8 for $20 total. Considering how often they will be used, I didn't feel the need to spend big bucks. So, cleared rhe kitchen counter (not married LOL) and went to town. After changing all the gaskets, bearing and seal, she is back to her normal volume. SUCCESS! Heck, with the whine gone, it reminded me that I needed to adjust the valves. Thanks for the video.
Paul
 

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OK. Since it looks like the P/L doesn't show up, I'll post the parts I bought off ebay. Mind you, mine is a 2002 and there are two different pumps used depending on year. I have no idea if the parts are the same for the other pump. The Seal Kit description just says its for 2002 - 2006 Acura RSX.

Power Steering Pump Shaft Bearing, outer drive end, AS-6203-2RS - $9.95 free S&H (also used in the tranny interestingly enough)

Power Steering Pump Seal Kit - Edelmann # 8936 - $19.84 free S&H.

Hope that helps. With the right tools its an hour job to rebuild. In your kitchen? Double that! LOL.
Paul
 

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I would just like to add that Power Steering fluid is some nasty stuff. Wear gloves. It can be absorbed through your skin. Leaves a nasty taste in your mouth untill your liver can process it out. I get busy and forget and taste the stuff for a day after. Just a heads up.
Paul
 

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Just a heads up if you do order parts from Honda, the price of the Pump cover seal, it looks like a large o ring with a nipple, has gone through the roof. The part was listed at almost 46 bucks.

i would opt to buy this one online or get a generic replacement from a parts store place. The other pieces are still relatively cheap.
 

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Thanks for the confirmation on that.

I rebuilt the pump on my '02 Type S and have a few notes. I could do a write-up if anyone is interested though I didn't take pictures of the entire process.

  • Gates 348534 power steering pump seal kit worked for my pump. It was a matter of matching a bunch of O-rings.
  • The main shaft seal seems to not have a metal ring in it, so you can almost dig it out with your fingers. A wooden dowel and a hammer should do to pop it out.
  • I used a 6203-2RS bearing from McMaster-Carr, P/N 5972K44. They are currently selling FAG bearings which are high-quality. This is a fully sealed bearing.
  • The original bearing is sealed on one side and shielded on the other, but this was likely Honda saving a few cents per bearing as the inner side does not need a seal since it is directly adjacent to the shaft seal.
  • Everything in the Gates kit looked OK except for the high pressure hose seal. I had two identical blue O-rings at the end of the rebuild, and one was clearly for the low pressure side of the pump. The other could be stretched for the high pressure side, but it didn't look right.
  • I had lying around a bag of 14x2.0 Viton O-rings, so I used one of these instead. It might have been a bit on the small side, but it was still better than using the blue O-ring.
  • I have put 100 miles on the car since the overhaul, averaging 90-95MPH for the most part, roughly 4000RPM on the tach, and everything has behaved nicely.
  • I recommend a 10-ton press for this job. I only had a 20-ton press on hand, and I didn't have nearly enough feedback from the hydraulics to know whether I had gone far enough.
  • Do not use the pulley as part of the pressing operation because you are highly likely to bend it.
  • Torque the four housing screws down to 20 Nm. Torque the pulley to 64 Nm. These are the values given in the Helms P/S pump overhaul section.
That's all that I recall off the top of my head. I'll try to remember to check this thread if anyone has questions. The pump is quite similar to others shown on YouTube, so
 

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Thanks for the confirmation on that.

I rebuilt the pump on my '02 Type S and have a few notes. I could do a write-up if anyone is interested though I didn't take pictures of the entire process.
I only got mine partially done, didnt get the inner assembly with the pump vanes out, and I was running out of time, so I only did the three seals that come out on the side opposite the drive shaft. After I got the snap ring out, I wasnt sure if I was supposed to drive the shaft out, also needed to see more examples of getting the inner assembly out to be comfortable. Decided to just settle for the 3 o rings that I got replaced and call it a day.
 

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You need to do the bearing as well. The seals will wear out with the massive amount of play that accumulates. I had several thousandths of runout in my bearing, and it was gravelly. Below are some photos of how the old bearing and shaft are pressed out. You should be able to use the old bearing to assist in pressing the new bearing and shaft in. This doesn't work in some projects because you end up pressing in two bearings, but the clearances work out here that the old bearing slips right off once you are done pressing the new one in.

565329
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565331
 
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