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· I <3 DIYs
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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hello Everyone! I had plans on doing this for quite a while ever since the actuator started acting up during this past summer.

Symptoms: I noticed this one day when my tail lights and city lights stopped blinking when I would lock the car. Also the horn did not sound. I thought it was a fault that would eventually correct itself. Eventually the lock stopped unlocking/locking; it only made a quiet 'attempt' to unlock or lock.

I started to do that thing where one would crawl into the trunk space to access that small plastic window to access the lock. I've been doing this for months now.

This write-up will show you what you need to do to access the actuator. I decided to write this up too since I had a camera nearby.

Tools Required:
  • Phillips Screwdriver
  • Flathead Screwdriver
  • The will to accept potential ratting from removing these panels (if you haven't done so already)





1. First, begin by accessing your trunk. Remove the privacy Trunk Lid if necessary. There will be two hooks, one on each side with a panel revealing one screw each. Remove both of those screws.



2. Next, use your flathead screwdriver to gently pry at the side trims. The clip locations are shown below. Once you are finished with this step, you will have removed four clips and one screw for each side.



3. Removal of these side pieces involve working with the end closest to the top of the hatch first. Once you get that end loose, the rest of the trim will follow.

4. The next step is to remove the plastic piece right behind the rear end of the car. Highlighted in yellow, the arrows indicate the tabs that require the prying of a flathead screwdriver. Do not forget to remove the screw located within the inner handle of the trunk as circled in the photo. Highlighted in red, the arrows indicate the tabs of the trunk piece that requires the force of pushing. Once you remove the tabs labeled in yellow, you will have to work the plastic off the rest of the tabs by pushing the piece towards the vehicle.





5. Once you have all your plastic pieces off, you now have access to your actuator. Remove the two golden screws marked with solid red arrows and remove the two plugs.



The yellow arrow is the lock switch one would use as a manual switch. Solid red arrows indicate the location of where the gold screws should be. The vertical oval shows the mechanism that is switched from lock to unlock using either the manual switch or the actuator switch circled in the horizontal oval. With the actuator missing, you now have a trunk that can only be manually controlled, which is fine in my case.



I stopped here because I did not have an actual replacement actuator to finish the job. However I did proceed to disassemble the actuator itself. Photos will be provided below for those who are interested:



  • The actual cover of this part is glued on there. I pried it apart starting my prying at the connector portion of the mechanism. Doing this pretty much breaks it open and requires a strong glue of some sort if one were to have effectively repaired this part.



  • The top plug goes to the motor that spins as signal is sent to the actuator. The screw motion moves the spring-loaded gear that moves the arm on the bottom. The spring then makes the gear move back to its original position. In my case after testing it while opened up, the motor still works but has lost most of its power.





I hope this DIY helps. Good luck!
 

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Awesome, thanks for the diy. I wasn't sure how to remove the panels. I was scared i was gonna break something in there.
 

· I <3 DIYs
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153 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Awesome, thanks for the diy. I wasn't sure how to remove the panels. I was scared i was gonna break something in there.
No problem! I did break some of the plugs, but I think that's inevitable unless you're super patient with everything. :)
 

· I <3 DIYs
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Update: Ordered a new actuator and reinstalled everything back. Worked fine for about a week. Took it apart again and concluded the pins on the new actuator did not properly make contact. Slightly bent the pins and reinstalled everything back to normal. It's been a few days only so far, but will update on the quality of the new part!
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
thanks for this write up - my actuator just gave out today. what about the symptoms regarding the taillights and city lights stopped blinking? was it due to the actuator? Thanks again.
No problem! The symptoms regarding the tail lights and city lights not blinking means one thing: your trunk is still unlocked. Since the actuator is not working any more, your trunk simply won't lock by the press of your key fob. To temporarily solve this issue, open the little window that accesses the 3rd brake light, reach in and flip the actuator switch by hand to manually lock the trunk. then press lock again on the key fob.
 

· I <3 DIYs
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I've reuploaded the photos onto my personal flickr account, that way the photos won't disappear. If your actuator recently went out, I advise to go ahead and replace weakened trunk Lift Support shocks if needed. I have recently created a DIY thread on that. Please check it out as it is helpful to do both at the same time =]

Take care, happy new year everyone!

http://forums.clubrsx.com/showthread.php?t=1080697
 

· I <3 DIYs
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Thank you for taking the time to give this detailed explanation. I'll be following it closely this weekend.:p



Mission Accomplished!!!

Thanks again.
No problem :] :fistbump:
 

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Question: On my 02 type s, when I unlock the doors, the back makes a loud buzzing noise as if something is stuck. The rear hatch locks and unlocks fine. But only when unlocking does it make the loud buzzing noise. Would this be the actuator or something else?
 

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Hey guys, first off awesome DIY.

I have already got my 2 door lock actuators replaced today by my mechanic because it seems more difficult then this. I believe I can do this one without breaking anything so I plan on doing so.

My question is, I found both door lock actuators for 40 bucks on ebay which is what my mechanic installed for me. The trunk lock actuator costs 100+ on ebay which seems very expensive compared to the doors. If my door lock from ebay is 10 a side and costs 100 at the stealership, does that mean the trunk one from stealership going to be 250+?

I am trying to find the most cost efficient place to purchase it. I have shops selling used ones for 50 bucks but I donno how reliable used ones are.

thanks!

P.S. I am in Canada so I am using Canada pricing. Our dollar is worthless compared to USD.
 

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Hey guys, first off awesome DIY.

I have already got my 2 door lock actuators replaced today by my mechanic because it seems more difficult then this. I believe I can do this one without breaking anything so I plan on doing so.

My question is, I found both door lock actuators for 40 bucks on ebay which is what my mechanic installed for me. The trunk lock actuator costs 100+ on ebay which seems very expensive compared to the doors. If my door lock from ebay is 10 a side and costs 100 at the stealership, does that mean the trunk one from stealership going to be 250+?

I am trying to find the most cost efficient place to purchase it. I have shops selling used ones for 50 bucks but I donno how reliable used ones are.

thanks!

P.S. I am in Canada so I am using Canada pricing. Our dollar is worthless compared to USD.
this is where i got mine a couple of months ago

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/310825813270?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
 
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Ugh this will be the third one I've purchased.

The DOOR (not liftgate) actuators have OEM factory versions that are available for more $.

Are there OEM factory versions of these liftgate actuators available?

Are they worth the extra money?
 

· Curious Gooner
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Thank you for this write up! Just replaced my truck actuator last night once i realized my horn wasn't beeping when i pressed the button as well. Cheap and easy fix! Lets see how long this actuator lasts me :)
 
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