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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
At 145,000 miles I had a blinking "D" light on my auto indicating a problem. I didn't notice any driving problems and the "D" would stop blinking when I turned the engine off and back on, but the blinking D would come back once I hit third gear. I pulled the code by shorting pins 4 and 9 on the data link connector as shown here. If you short the two pins and turn the key on to II, the D will blink two long blinks and 6 short blinks, 26, continuously. The MIL also blinks. If you have an OBDII scan tool the code will read P0845. This means the PCM sees a value from the 3rd clutch pressure switch that it doesn't expect to see.

Although I couldn't feel any drivability problems, I decided not to drive the car because the PCM reads the clutch pressure switch to determine when to release and apply the third clutch. I felt that I could damage or stress the 3rd clutch by driving the car. This DIY shows how to swap the pressure switch.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
The third clutch pressure switch is located below the auto transmission dipstick and in front of it. This is the view looking over the battery (which is removed) and down on the dipstick. The wire is disconnected and the blue connector part of the switch is shown. There's also a good illustration in the Helm manual on pg 14-134.

 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
To get to the switch you'll need to remove the battery, battery box, and the plate that the battery sits on. This is pretty simple except for the plate. The plate is fastened to the chassis by two 12mm bolts on top and another two 12mm bolts underneath. You'll have to feel for the bottom bolts since they're hard to see. The bolts on the bottom don't have to come all the way out. Just loosen them and the plate lifts off the bolts. The picture shows the cutouts in the plate that rest on the bottom bolts.

 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
Once the battery plate is out of the way you can remove the third clutch pressure switch with a 22mm socket or wrench. I used channel locks to squeeze the release switch on the connector wire and the connector wire easily came off. Before removing the switch, test the wire. I measured ~1830ohms from the connector wire to battery negative. This shows no shorts or opens in the wire. It's not going to do any good to swap the pressure switch if the wire is damaged, so make this simple check first. :)

The picture shows a new switch with the correct part number. I bought this from the local dealer for about $60. You can get them online for about $45 after shipping.

 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
The pressure switch is a "normally open" switch. That is, it's open till ATF pressure closes it. Check the new switch with an ohmmeter to verify that it's open. The body of the switch is ground.

The pressure switch is located below the fluid level, so have the new switch handy before removing the old, or have something ready to plug the hole because fluid leaks out. The Helm says to replace the washer, but the new switch doesn't come with a new washer :rolleyes: so I just used the old washer. Swap quickly. The torque value is 14ft.lbs. I recommend a 3/8" 22mm normal-length socket. Deep sockets or 1/2 drive sockets or adapters will have clearance problems with the shift solenoids.

Reassembly is the same as disassembly. Be careful of battery polarity when reassembling.
 

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Thanks for the DIY! Will be doing this tomorrow on my sister's car.. Hope it's as easy as it seems.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
No. Just save the washer from the old one and re-use it.
 

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Sorry for bringing up an old thread but are you sure it's the 28600-PRP-003 and not the 28600-PRP-004 for the 3rd clutch pressure switch? I tried calling the dealer and they weren't sure which was which cause they were both described as pressure switches. I got the OBD II reading for P0845 as well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Yes. The 003 part is installed and working fine to this day.
 

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Hey man! Just did this yday! Just wanted to say thank you for the great tutorial! Definitely saved me a lot of time and money :) Cheers!
 

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Sorry for bringing up an old thread but are you sure it's the 28600-PRP-003 and not the 28600-PRP-004 for the 3rd clutch pressure switch? I tried calling the dealer and they weren't sure which was which cause they were both described as pressure switches. I got the OBD II reading for P0845 as well.
Looking at this diagram, at parts 10 and 11 in the picture,

http://www.acuraoemparts.com/delray...T&catcgry5=AT+SOLENOID&ListAll=All&vinsrch=no

I think they're interchangeable? Same basic parts, just made by different companies? It's saying to put 003 under the intake box, and 004 by the dipstick, but it sounds like Jay put 003 by the dipstick and the code didn't come back?

I'm having the hardest time getting to those bolts on the underside of the battery tray. Going to unbolt the air box to move it over a bit; looks like I'll be able to get my combination of extensions and wobble adapter into a good spot...
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
Those bolts were a little tough. Fortunately you don't have to take them out; just loosen them and the plate lifts off...

Good luck.
 

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Yeah, the first post mentioned that. The problem was getting the wrench in a spot where I could actually turn them, especially that rear one. Got it eventually though. It took a deep socket attached to a short extension attached to a wobble attached to a second short extension attached to a ratchet/breaker bar. Still at a bit of a bad angle to turn the nut properly with how much wobbles move before doing anything. But the old one's out, the new one's in, and part 004 for under the intake box is on Craigslist for $10 NIB! May as well do that one too!
 

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D and check engine flashing

Bringing this back to life:
2002 RSX base model. Flashing "D" Check Engine on. I'll do the 4/9 pin short and count the flashes - but where can I find the SRS to OBD translation chart?
Many thanks.
 

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Thanks for the guide.

I wasn't able to get the battery plate off so I went in from the bottom. Turned the tire all the way to the left to have more room to work. Popped the clip on the connector with ease and ended up using a crescent wrench to loosen up the switch. The proper tool would be a 22mm deep socket, but the one I had plus the 1/2 inch ratchet didn't have great clearance or leverage.

It was already said, but once you get to the last couple threads on that thing, it starts leaking out transmission fluid. Work quickly or you will end up getting AT fluid in your armpit like I did.
 
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