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I Heart Kelly Clarkson
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
NOTE - I have to post these in parts due to the fact that we can only use 10 images per post.

As some of you may or may not already know, the popular PureVision HID conversion kits that you can order from Retro-Solutions were replaced recently by the Xentec HID kits due to the fact that the PureVision kit manufacturer suddenly decided to change designs on the HID kit, making it harder to install on certain cars (the RSX in particular). I was all set and ready to purchase the PureVision 4300K HID kit from RSX-CT before I went to his website and realized that they were not for sale anymore. I inquired further and found out that the replacement kits for the PureVision were the new XenTec kits.

After a couple of PMs back and forth, I found out that the Xentec kit is true plug and play: no wiring harnesses or anything else is necessary, just a couple of plugs in to the ballast, a plug into the stock OEM low beam harness, and a connection to the new light bulb is all that is required. In addition, the Xentec kit was even cheaper then the PureVision ($160 vs $180) and according to RSX-CT, you actually get more for your money compared to the PureVisions.

I wasn't sure if anyone else has tried out this new kit on the board, but I figured I would take the dive and buy it from Todd. I also figured I would do this write up in case anyone was on the fence about getting this kit and to assist anyone else who will be buying this kit in the future.


First of all, I placed the order for the Xentec 5000K H1 kit on Wednesday evening around 8 PM or so. For an extra $5, I went ahead and purchased pre-modified x-clips from Todd, as I do not have a Dremel and didn't really want to deal with me messing anything up. Regardless, the package arrived via USPS with delivery confirmation on Friday! It only took two days to get from California to Texas - very quick and prompt. The package arrived as such:



Upon opening the package, these were the contents found inside:







The last picture also shows the ease of connection for the Xentec kit.


The Installation

1. Find your car and remove the front bumper.



2. Remove the 3x silver 10 mm bolts and 1x Phillips head screw from the headlight assembly. One of the 10 mm bolts is located on top of the headlight. Another is located on the side of the headlight and the last one is actually on the front of the headlight. You will probably need at least a 8" extension to reach this bolt.







 

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I Heart Kelly Clarkson
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232 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 ·
3. While holding onto the headlight, slowly remove the headlight from the front bumper enough to remove the harnesses for the turn signal, low beam headlights, high beam headlights, and parking lights. They are circled in red in the following pictures.





After performing the same procedure on the other headlight, your car should look naked afterward:



4. Go inside your house/apartment where there is less humidity and water vapor in the air and set your headlight down. Remove the rubber grommets for the low beam and high beam light bulbs. The low beam grommet is removed in the following picture:



Upon closer inspection, this is what you should see after removing the low beam grommet:



5. Remove the halogen light bulb and clip from its housing by pressing down on the metal clamp and moving it to the side. Set these parts to the side.

6. Slowly remove the HID bulb from its protective plastic housing and fit it onto the x-clip (that you bought or modified) by placing the wires through the little hole and moving the clip as far up as possible until the clip meets the bulb base.

NOTE: The x-clip is actually installed incorrectly in this picture - you want the jagged edge on the x-clip to face AWAY from the bulb, NOT TOWARD THE BULB.



7. Very carefully, insert the HID bulb into the low beam housing, making sure that the rubber part of the HID bulb faces downward. The bulb will actually not fit the other way, so this is pretty simple.



8. Clamp the x-clip with the new HID bulb into place using the same technique you used to remove the low beam halogen bulb.



9. Next, you want to run the red and black wire connected to the HID bulb through the hole in the rubber grommet. You will notice that there is an additional rubber grommet attached to the HID bulb - we can simply pinch this as tightly as possible in order to fit it through the stock rubber grommet.



 

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I Heart Kelly Clarkson
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232 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
10. When you have everything in place, push the stock rubber grommet in as far as possible, just as it was when you removed it. Follow up by pushing the aftermarket rubber grommet in to the small opening that still remains in the stock grommet. It should fit very nicely:



11. Repeat steps 4-10 for the other headlight assembly.

12. Next, it is time to mount the ballasts. I tried to find a place to mount the ballasts on the headlights. Obviously, the first place I tried to mount them was underneath the headlights where there are certain indentions for the JDM ballasts. I tried to somehow mount them underneath the headlights, but it just would not work out for me. The holes would not line up and I did not really want to run to Home Depot to fabricate some sort of bracket to make it fit. This is how they line up if you try to put them underneath the headlights:



The red circles indicate the proposed connection points for the ballast, but they do not line up.

The next place I was thinking about mounting them was inside the inner fender. I've read of some people doing this, but it did not seem secure with just double-sided tape. Other members said that they used zip ties to hold the ballast in place, but I did not see anything feasible to zip tie anything to -- scratch that idea.

I then thought about mounting them underneath the hood and was set on doing this until I realized that it might cause trouble with emissions/vehicle inspection or police. Additionally, the windshield wiper fluid pipe was getting in the way on the right side of the car -- scratch that idea too.

Finally, I realized I could mount them on the frame support of the car. However, this was easier said than done. The Xentec ballasts come with plastic pieces underneath them - ideally, this is great because you can mount them with screws wherever you want. However, I found out that these seemed to be more of a hassle than anything else when you want to mount ballasts on the frame support of the car. This is because once you put the headlights back on the car, there is very little clearance between the bottom of the headlight and the frame of the car to fit a ballast. The ballast needs to be precisely placed in order to make everything fit.

In order to do this, I got my girlfriend to hold the ballast (to make sure it doesn't fall) while I put the headlight assembly back on and matched up all of the mounting holes to make sure everything fits snug with the new ballast. The ballast almost fit the first time but one of the small plastic pieces was in the way, so I went ahead and took a hacksaw to cut off part of it. I then refit the headlight on the car with lots of nudging and saw that everything fit. With the girlfriend still holding the ballast, I removed the headlight assembly and took a permanent marker to trace the outline of the ballast. After removing the ballast, I used water to wash off the area that I was going to use for double-sided tape.

Finally, I mounted the passenger side ballast:



The circles indicate portions of the black plastic housing that I cut with a hacksaw in order to make everything fit. Something else I did to make the ballast fit snug was to cut the black plastic housing at an angle in order to make it fit underneath the little gap on the frame of the car without moving very much



Here it is, finally mounted with double sided tape:



13. I used the same procedure for the driver's side ballast:







14. After mounting both ballasts in positions of your choice (make sure you still have enough clearance for the headlight bulbs, and that the wires are long enough to connect to each other), connect the rest of the wires that came with the Xentec kit according to my previous picture. Red wires go with red wires and black wires go with black wires.

15. Before putting your headlights back on, turn on your low beams to make sure everything works correctly. You might hear a very, very slight humming sound from the ballast, this is ok and normal (as far as I know anyway). My dad's TL's ballasts make the same humming noise when his HIDs are active.

16. If everything works correctly, reassemble your headlight back into its proper location and secure the headlight with 3x silver 10mm bolts and 1x Phillips head screw. Plug in the high beam, turn signal, and parking light plugs.

17. Repeat for the other side of your car.

18. Zip tie all the loose wires and try to make sure that everything will be secure when your car is in motion.

19. Finally, enjoy your new headlights!
 

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I Heart Kelly Clarkson
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232 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
The Results

As you can see from the following pictures, the housing of the headlight has a slight blue color to it. However, the output light is white with a very, very small hint of blue - definitely lots of usable light with the 5000K kit.

Here are a couple of pictures of the 5000K HIDs (sorry for the blurryness on the second picture):





Two pictures of the cut off of the HIDs. Yes, I understand there is glare.





For good measure, here is a picture of the HIDs on a 2005 Acura TL. Note the very sharp cutoff displayed due to projectors versus reflector housings.



Finally, here are pictures of comparison between the Xentec 5000K kit versus OEM Acura TL HIDs in projectors:






Personally, I think the cutoff is decent for HIDs in a reflector housing and seem to be almost at the same level as the TL (without adjustment). I went driving around after installation for about 30 minutes and did not receive any high beams or anything of that nature. I'm not exactly sure how these HIDs look from an oncoming car, but I might aim my headlights a little farther down just so I don't blind oncoming drivers for sure.

Overall, my experience with the kit so far has been excellent. Installation of the kit was a breeze (minus the fact that I accidentally received H7 connectors instead of H1 connectors), shipping was extremely quick and prompt, light output is definitely better than stock, and there is a one year warranty on the HIDs. Additionally, if you purchase the HIDs from Todd (RSX-CT), you will be entitled to replacement parts at cost for your HID kit if anything fails outside of the warranty period.

Hopefully, these HIDs will continue to run smoothly for a while, but time will be the test.

Enjoy! :thumbsup:
 

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Registered
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8,340 Posts
nice write-up, yea i think projectors is the way to go.
 

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Headlight Guy
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8,513 Posts
Only thing is... the PureVision set came with relays to power the Ballasts directly from the battery... this is suppose to be good as wire burnout prevention from the high draw startup
Both kits now use ignitors that draw less current at startup, however the PV still come with the harness to work on an RSX because of the new design, the XT so not require it.
 

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Projectors....Mmmmmm
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2,271 Posts
I had an HID kit once :D and then upgraded to projectors LOL
 

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ciao-su!
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7,796 Posts
looks good. im thinking about getting the 5000k xentec bulbs from rsx-ct. how is the light output and how is the color? i'm hoping that it's super white *crosses fingers*
 
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