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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi guys!

I have a problem, each time i put the ignition on my ECU fuse the 15A one under the hood keeps blowing...

I supposed that it was one of the sensors(crank shaft/ camshaft) so i've started unpluging the sensors one by one and puting the key in the ignition. I got to the intake camshaft sensor and when i was unpluging that sensor it stoped blowing the fuse.
I went and replaced the sensor, but same story again.

If i let the car sitting for 1 day the next it starts for a few minutes and then in dies and then starts blowing fuses.

Anyone have any clue what this problem could be?

Thanks!
 

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bleep-bleep bleeeep
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Just woke up. And just a shot in the dark. But here goes.

Congrats on troubleshooting the location of the short. And since the sensor is new; I'd look for dirt/moisture... anything with the connector that may be grounding out. Worn wiring, melted wiring, dirt, grease, water...etc... You could use compressed air to clean the thing or maybe old TV tuner cleaner. Even rubbing alcohol and an old toothbrush may work.

My money would be on something farther up the harness; closer to the ECU. Just trace it and look for anything burned, crimped, or suspicious.

And I'd disconnect the battery before kibitzing around with anything electrical.

Good Luck 2 ya'
-scott
 

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Soup to nuts
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If a fuse instantaneously blows then you have a short, if you know unplugging that sensor fixes the issue then follow that wire back until you find a spot where it is A) touching the chassis of the car or B) touching another wire.

DO NOT REPLACE WITH A LARGER FUSE.... EVER!
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Ok, i'm going nuts! I've replaced the camshaft sensor that i tough that was bad and the fuse still blows when i put the ignition on.

I've started troubleshooting the problem from the Manual Shop Acura.pdf and every thing was ok, it was leading me to a bad ECU. Until today when i go to the car, after i verified every cable from the ecu harness, i put the ignition on and the fuse wouldn't blow... I connect my laptop to the Kpro and i was getting a connection. Tried to start the car but the car wouldn't start but it would crank. I've checked the fuse and it was ok but then i've realized that i wasn't really hearing the Fuel Pump Relay clicking and the fuel pump wouldn't prime...

I've took out the fuel line from the fuel rail and put the ignition on and i wasn't getting any fuel at all.(all this time my fuel pump relays were hanging upside down from the time i was diagnosing the problem of the fuse) When i saw that i didn't got fuel at the engine i took the blue and brown relays in my hand and put the ignition on to feel if they click, at that moment the relays clicked and the fuel pump primed. Tried several times to put the ignition on and off and every thing was looking ok, plugged back the fuel line and started the car.

Car was running ok, i've let it run for a few minutes till the engine warmed up and when i reved up the engine to 1500RPM the engine stalled and the fuse blew.

Here you go my Log. KDL
 

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The camshaft position sensor (CMP) isn't on the ECU (under-hood fuse #6) fuse bus. It's on the under-dash #4 fuse bus. If there was a problem with the CMP, I expect the ECU would set P0340 or P0344 codes. You sure it was the CMP that you thought was causing the problem? The crankshaft position sensor, CKP, is on the under-hood fuse #6 bus.

In any case, if you're sure about the CMP maybe it was just faking you out. You might have an intermittent short and pulling the connections to the CMP had nothing to do with the short going away.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
None of my sensors are bad, neither my harness it have been all checked no short in the harness and not a sensor problem, now i narrowed the problem to be either the relays from the fuel pump or the pump itself.
 

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Well, good luck. Intermittent shorts are hard to troubleshoot. The fuel pump is on under-dash fuse 17 as you probably know.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thx alot! But no one has other inputs or had this problem in the past? :/
 

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bleep-bleep bleeeep
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I'm sort of stumped. But if you feel you've narrowed it down; I'd clean the relays (forced air) and search for any bit of moisture in the connectors or frayed/melted wires. Something may be arcing as you increase the RPMs. Maybe pull the fuse and insert a multimeter in line and watch those readings. I'm just thinking out loud here. Maybe it will inspire other troubleshooting ideas.

Good luck,
-scott
 

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MECP Installer
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Check that... don't leave the ECU unprotected. But maybe insert a meter inline prior to the fuse.
Nah, just pull the fuse. Multimeter's have built-in fuses for this exact purpose. You'll be fine. It's usually a 10A fuse in them that will blow just like any other fuse if the line you're testing shorts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Thx alot guys i'll try that out and i'll post a response as soon as i find what's the problem!
 

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Soup to nuts
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I had this same exact problem and it was my secondary o2 sensor wire touching the chassis of the car in the exhaust channel.

Also, since you have kpro, sometimes the usb connect touches the metal top part of the ecu, I wedge a piece of paper in mine to prevent that from happening just in case.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
^ i've disconected both O2 sensors and i've checked for the usb connection of the Kpro! and nothing! :(
 

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Ok... so what was it?
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
:D when i swapped the k24, the yellow/black wire going to one of the injectors was touching the shield from the throttle body!
 

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i had the same problem was doing 100 down the highway when my car died and oil light came on I was freaking out cause I thought I blew the engine cause it was cranking but would not turn over . checked the fuses and the ecu fuse under the hood was blown and every time I put a new fuse it kept blowing turns out it was a short right by the serpentine belt wires we showing and touching put some electrical tape and car turned on like nothing had happened
568156
 
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