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thanks for looking out my man. i got it figured out. when i put in the new wideband i had the map on open loop so it was completely starving. ran a datalog and adjusted the fuel and timing and was able to run e85 with afr's between 11.5-14 while cruising. only place ill be driving to now is my buddy's thats tuning it in the morning. appreciate it! i wont say im like deep into kpro tuning or anything but i do know how to adjust and make minor changes. at least enough for it not to blow up...yet hahaha
hahahaha glad you got it figured out dude. Good luck with your tune.
 

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Currently using Ktuner tuned on k20z1 w/ gruppeM, skunk2 header, custom cat back. About to throw on RBC manifold - would changes be drastic enough to warrant a complete re-tune? or will i be okay running my current tune
If you want to make power, yes. To run safely, maybe. You’d have to record a datalog to determine that.
 

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Currently using Ktuner tuned on k20z1 w/ gruppeM, skunk2 header, custom cat back. About to throw on RBC manifold - would changes be drastic enough to warrant a complete re-tune? or will i be okay running my current tune
If you want to make power, yes. To run safely, maybe. You’d have to record a datalog to determine that.
yup. Anything you add if you want it to count needs a tune
 

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Hey guys, so long story short, I got the car on the dyno today & tried to get the car tuned but couldn't get the dual intake manifold runners to activate thus making a LOT less power compared to stock PND ECU. I didn't do enough research on this beforehand sadly...

I wanted to know if there's any way to get the dual runners on with K-PRO (PND kal). From what I'm seeing most people run into this problem (with base models) & kpro

The tuner said I should look into getting a PRB intake or RBC (prb much easier to find/+cheaper)
So my other question is can I bolt on the PRB IM' & TB from the type s onto the base model?



Other night when I put on Kpro & a base map (PND map) I noticed it threw two codes. I datalogged most of the test drives.
P0661 Intake Manifold Runner Control Low Voltage
& later on, I got P1074 Intake Manifold Runner Control System Malfunction (high rpm)

My setup - 05' Base 5 Speed, K-Pro (PRB Ecu, it was on a PND kal) Race header + 3" exhaust only.
switched back to the PND ECU for the time being.

Any info/feedback helps Thanks,
I'm still doign research as I go.
 

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Hey guys, so long story short, I got the car on the dyno today & tried to get the car tuned but couldn't get the dual intake manifold runners to activate thus making a LOT less power compared to stock PND ECU. I didn't do enough research on this beforehand sadly...

I wanted to know if there's any way to get the dual runners on with K-PRO (PND kal). From what I'm seeing most people run into this problem (with base models) & kpro

The tuner said I should look into getting a PRB intake or RBC (prb much easier to find/+cheaper)
So my other question is can I bolt on the PRB IM' & TB from the type s onto the base model?



Other night when I put on Kpro & a base map (PND map) I noticed it threw two codes. I datalogged most of the test drives.
P0661 Intake Manifold Runner Control Low Voltage
& later on, I got P1074 Intake Manifold Runner Control System Malfunction (high rpm)

My setup - 05' Base 5 Speed, K-Pro (PRB Ecu, it was on a PND kal) Race header + 3" exhaust only.
switched back to the PND ECU for the time being.

Any info/feedback helps Thanks,
I'm still doign research as I go.
The PRB ECU doesn't support the dual runners, but I know that the Intake Runner Control circuit can be re-tasked to Reverse Lockout for people running the PND ECU with a 6 speed trans. I'd imagine you can do the same in reverse, but you would need to check with Hondata on that. Should be a wiring schematic in the repair manual to reference as well.

As for your other question, hell yeah you can get a PRB manifold, or any other K series manifold you desire. I know that the RBC has been hyped up a lot, but it seems that it really shines above 7k rpms so I'd go with the PRB.

After you do that, let me know how it is. I've been considering going the same route after I lost power with my current exhaust lol.
 

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The PRB ECU doesn't support the dual runners, but I know that the Intake Runner Control circuit can be re-tasked to Reverse Lockout for people running the PND ECU with a 6 speed trans. I'd imagine you can do the same in reverse, but you would need to check with Hondata on that. Should be a wiring schematic in the repair manual to reference as well.

As for your other question, hell yeah you can get a PRB manifold, or any other K series manifold you desire. I know that the RBC has been hyped up a lot, but it seems that it really shines above 7k rpms so I'd go with the PRB.

After you do that, let me know how it is. I've been considering going the same route after I lost power with my current exhaust lol.
Is it possible that the Kpro ECU messed with the plastic IM'? I'm going to my local shop tmw to get them to read this CEL, since I don't have a scanner to check the PND ECU. If they need to replace it I might just leave it as is, because if I'm getting a PRB or RBC IM why spend $xxx on fixing/replacing the pnd stockie.



Thanks for the heads on the answer to my question man. PRB would be the cheapest option but would RBC offer move gains or what? I'd have to "port" & shave the edge or something like that correct? with the RBC on a k20a3

Swap is fairly straightforward forward I hope. Contacted a guy for his part out PRB IM & TB.

Oh and before i forget, what about the stock a3 air box onto the a2 tb? will it work?
 

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Is it possible that the Kpro ECU messed with the plastic IM'? I'm going to my local shop tmw to get them to read this CEL, since I don't have a scanner to check the PND ECU. If they need to replace it I might just leave it as is, because if I'm getting a PRB or RBC IM why spend $xxx on fixing/replacing the pnd stockie.



Thanks for the heads on the answer to my question man. PRB would be the cheapest option but would RBC offer move gains or what? I'd have to "port" & shave the edge or something like that correct? with the RBC on a k20a3

Swap is fairly straightforward forward I hope. Contacted a guy for his part out PRB IM & TB.

Oh and before i forget, what about the stock a3 air box onto the a2 tb? will it work?
Is it possible that the Kpro ECU messed with the plastic IM'? I'm going to my local shop tmw to get them to read this CEL, since I don't have a scanner to check the PND ECU. If they need to replace it I might just leave it as is, because if I'm getting a PRB or RBC IM why spend $xxx on fixing/replacing the pnd stockie.



Thanks for the heads on the answer to my question man. PRB would be the cheapest option but would RBC offer move gains or what? I'd have to "port" & shave the edge or something like that correct? with the RBC on a k20a3

Swap is fairly straightforward forward I hope. Contacted a guy for his part out PRB IM & TB.

Oh and before i forget, what about the stock a3 air box onto the a2 tb? will it work?
I'm doubtful that the ECU damaged the solenoid on the intake. I'd just clear it and wait for it to come back.

The RBC has the potential to make more power, but I haven't seen a dyno for an A3 with bolt ons + rbc before. It's been stated on here in several threads that the A3 would need supporting mods to benefit from the increased flow(cams, compression, valvetrain). The ones for the A2/Z1 show that they trade a couple of horses here and there, but they are largely the same up until 7k rpms, which is why I wouldn't bother. There's a water outlet on the right that needs to be shaved, and you need to put a hole in the TB gasket for the MAP sensor (or relocate to the top of the manifold) but you won't need to port it. What you're thinking of is port matching the TB to the intake for more flow. You also need to swap the outside wires on the TPS plug when you get rid of the Base TB.

I'm not entirely sure about the air box. Part numbers are different, but they look identical in pics I've seen. The intake tube feeding into the box, and the one to the TB are different for sure.
 

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Update: put jumper on OBDII DLC as shown here -> http://www.k-series.com/tech_document.php?id=37

CEL does not flash (no code stored).

Pulled ECU fuse = no change.

Pulled ECU fuse, pulled all 3 wiring harness off ECU, checked for loose wires, all wires look ok. Replaced fuse = no change.

Anyone know what 5 flashes means??

Like I said, car seems to run fine, little worried about the CEL flashing though.

CEL does not flash or come on during driving, even extreme acceleration uphill.

Oh I checked fuel cap too, it's tight...

I also put an intake on recently, don't think it flashed after that though (I drove it a little bit, then pulled the ECU the same day). I did check all the sensor wires (AIT, etc) around the intake that you have to mess with when installing intake, they all seem ok..
Any update mine does that too
FIXED: See here -->CEL flashes 5 times at startup (key at II)


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I just put my ECU back in after getting Hondata #4 reflash. (Good service btw, sent on Fri UPS overnight, arrived to Torrance on Mon and I got it back Tues before noon..)

When I turn the key to II or whatever "run" is (not to "start"), the dash lights up, CEL light comes on (normal) then about 20 seconds it goes off (normal). But after it goes off, it flashes 5 times, then goes off permanently. It also flashes breifly when I start the car, I don't know if that's normal...

Car seems to run ok, haven't really raced it out yet.. idle will take a few cycles to settle down I guess.. but is the flashing thing a concern?

I should add that I did all this with the battery connected. Should I pull the ECU fuse (#6?) to reset it and see what happens?
Any update? Mine does that too
 

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I'm doubtful that the ECU damaged the solenoid on the intake. I'd just clear it and wait for it to come back.

The RBC has the potential to make more power, but I haven't seen a dyno for an A3 with bolt ons + rbc before. It's been stated on here in several threads that the A3 would need supporting mods to benefit from the increased flow(cams, compression, valvetrain). The ones for the A2/Z1 show that they trade a couple of horses here and there, but they are largely the same up until 7k rpms, which is why I wouldn't bother. There's a water outlet on the right that needs to be shaved, and you need to put a hole in the TB gasket for the MAP sensor (or relocate to the top of the manifold) but you won't need to port it. What you're thinking of is port matching the TB to the intake for more flow. You also need to swap the outside wires on the TPS plug when you get rid of the Base TB.

I'm not entirely sure about the air box. Part numbers are different, but they look identical in pics I've seen. The intake tube feeding into the box, and the one to the TB are different for sure.
Alright, i'll stick with PRB IM and try that, if I can pick up the TB at the same time ill do that just incase. After looking around on some threads, the A3 TB will work with the a2 IM (just the a2 TB fits better i heard)

When I had the car on the dyno is was making a LOT less power when the secondary runners weren't working, I just want to run this k20a3 with kpro for the time being.

*edit, a lot less power compared to the stock PND ecu


Also helpful thread here Base model with Type S throttle body?
For base model with Type S throttle body
 

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Ok I have a question and need some help here I have a 04base with auto Just landed the kswap to a k24à2 using my orig intake w knn cold air intake some race header and custom exaustto the tail pipe no mods inside engine except to run rsx oil pump nee chain chain tensioner etc and using tsx injectors that came with the k24 also swapped cts as tsx is not gauged to run properly on my ecm also have. E.p.s swapped (rid of leaking hydrolic rack) so my question is tuning it I also have a t45 turbo set up not installed. Yet and plan on skunk 2 cams reflash by hindata or go ktuner my advise would help here I m ready to do it. Also plan to go stick soon. But one thing at a time lol 😆
 

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Ok I have a question and need some help here I have a 04base with auto Just landed the kswap to a k24à2 using my orig intake w knn cold air intake some race header and custom exaustto the tail pipe no mods inside engine except to run rsx oil pump nee chain chain tensioner etc and using tsx injectors that came with the k24 also swapped cts as tsx is not gauged to run properly on my ecm also have. E.p.s swapped (rid of leaking hydrolic rack) so my question is tuning it I also have a t45 turbo set up not installed. Yet and plan on skunk 2 cams reflash by hindata or go ktuner my advise would help here I m ready to do it. Also plan to go stick soon. But one thing at a time lol 😆
What are you asking?
 

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I want to tune it but how 8 know it's slow but I have my bmw that's a rocket right from the factory but this rsx game is what I need help with it needs to be tune but how
You need to contact and speak with a tuner that can work with your engine management system. If you'd rather do it yourself, you can reference all of the old posts on here about tuning, the info is still relevant. Most of the people that are currently active on this forum don't know how to tune unfortunately. Sorry I can't be of more help.
 

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Ok thanks do u have ktuner or hondata kpro if u could steer me in the better direction that ne great
Do you mean which one is better?
That's strictly a matter of opinion. There are more tuners familiar with Kpro, but anyone with a brain can figure out how to use Ktuner. Both have the same functions with small differences here and there.
 

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Ok thank you so much I been looking for the piggy back ecm harness thing the only one can seem to find is ktuners one so I guess I go ktuner thank you for the solid advise was considering doing a ecm reflash but they seem to think it isn't so good for nitros and a turbo
 
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