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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just installed a set of Koni's with Todd's V2 Caster Camber plates. I have the Camber set to minimum, and the ride height is at about 14" hub to fender. There's so much toe in that the car is basically undriveable. Has anyone used this setup before with stock Tie Rods? I can't use aftermarket Tie Rods or Steering arms per SCCA STF autocross class rules. Does anyone know if raising the ride height would create more toe in, or less? I'm hoping I don't have to ditch these plates, but since the caster is fixed at Max, I don't know if there's any way around this.
 

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given the placement of the steering rack (above the level of the arms on the strut), lowering the car will cause toe in right up until the car is so low as to make the steering rack below the height of the arms on the strut. At which point lowering the car more would start to reduce toe in, though I doubt the car can be lowered that much....

Given that, you will most likely see the car reduce toe in as you raise the right height in your case. *and really, if you are using your car for competition you should only be lowering the car ~1 to 1.5 inches lower than stock.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
What's crazy, is that I have a stock base RSX at my work parked next to my car. The steering arms are pointed down towards the center of the car (steering rack) on the stock car, in almost the same fashion as mine (at 14" hub to fender). Initially my ride height was at 15.25" in front, which is acutally higher than stock, and the steering arms were level with the rack. The increased caster of the Todd's plates has moved the steering arm back significantly, I believe compounding the effects.

Has anyone been able to successfully use Todd's plates with stock tie rod's and achieve zero toe?
 

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I may have that backwards then. been a while since I've been under my car.


Looks like the design is setup to cause toe out on compression and toe in on extension. (given the arms move in an arc).
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I was able to get slight toe out on mine now as well. Minimum Camber, max Caster. I'll probably use camber bolts to try to get at least some camber, but for now, the car is at least driveable.
 

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The added caster reduces you ackerman effect of the tie rods. In stock form, with the wheels straight, your tie rods are pointed toward the front of the car. This produces the ackerman effect as you turn, the inside tie rod essentially follows a more agressive sweep than the outside tie rod, causing the inside wheel to turn more than the outside, creating your ackerman angle.

When you tilt the strut back to add caster, your tie rods are almost straight, or pretty much straight as an arrow, or perpendicular to the center line of the car. This means they are "longer" because they are not yet tucking into their horizontal sweep. this combined with some added camber could be most of your issue. Im not sure if the V2 hats max out full positive camber in center of the strut tower like stock or not. I have V1 and you cant get back to factory camber, youre stuck adding at least -1* even in max positive setting.

Not sure that being lowered any kind of reasonable amount on a stock length strut will cause toe in, since the factory arm is mounted so high you should have a decent vertical angle on the tie rods.

You can get away with trimming some material off both the tie rod end, and tie rod itself to get some more room for adjustment.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I ran the last event of the season with the car. The alignment was just about to 0 toe in front, -1* Camber. Ride height was at about 14" from center of the hub to the fender in front. The car was all over the bump stops (450 lb/in springs, Koni 8611 1257 inserts in stock struts). The front tires took an absolute beating. I'm going to have to get more camber or I'm going to cord the tires every two to three events (2 driver car). The Todd's plates were as full (+) as they would go. I'm going to install a pair of camber bolts in each front strut and see how much camber I can get. I've also gone up to a 12k front spring, and to 32k rear springs, so there should be much, much less roll. Just hoping the car doesn't turn into a skateboard and slide all over the place.
 

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I ran the last event of the season with the car. The alignment was just about to 0 toe in front, -1* Camber. Ride height was at about 14" from center of the hub to the fender in front. The car was all over the bump stops (450 lb/in springs, Koni 8611 1257 inserts in stock struts). The front tires took an absolute beating. I'm going to have to get more camber or I'm going to cord the tires every two to three events (2 driver car). The Todd's plates were as full (+) as they would go. I'm going to install a pair of camber bolts in each front strut and see how much camber I can get. I've also gone up to a 12k front spring, and to 32k rear springs, so there should be much, much less roll. Just hoping the car doesn't turn into a skateboard and slide all over the place.

If you are hitting the bump stops... no amount of added camber is going to help you. You need to either raise the car up or increase roll resistance.
 
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