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Discussion Starter #1
Hey everybody,

When I apply the brake, about 50% of the time I lose all electrical power for about a second or two (The very instant I hit the brake, when the button clicks to turn on the brake lights). My CD player resets, and if I am near a complete stop, my car will die. This is a sudden problem and I have not changed anything on my car in quite some time. Oil is changed regularly, spark plugs were changed less than 10k miles ago.

I've got an emissions CEL P0420, but that's came and went for quite some time. I took it to a local shop that I frequent and left it for the day and they couldn't find a thing wrong with it (However, this was a few weeks ago before the problem was happening every drive. They couldn't get it to do it for them, of course). They checked the battery, alternator, etc to no avail. I'm thinking of trying another shop just in case. Anybody got any suggestions or help? Some advice would be well appreciated!

Mostly stock 2004 Type-S. 82k miles.
Mods:
Injen Mega Ram
Hondata Reflash#4
Hondata IMG
Pioneer AVIC-9310BT In-Dash DVD w/ stock Bose system
 

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Hey everybody,

When I apply the brake, about 50% of the time I lose all electrical power for about a second or two (The very instant I hit the brake, when the button clicks to turn on the brake lights). My CD player resets, and if I am near a complete stop, my car will die. This is a sudden problem and I have not changed anything on my car in quite some time. Oil is changed regularly, spark plugs were changed less than 10k miles ago.

I've got an emissions CEL P0420, but that's came and went for quite some time. I took it to a local shop that I frequent and left it for the day and they couldn't find a thing wrong with it (However, this was a few weeks ago before the problem was happening every drive. They couldn't get it to do it for them, of course). They checked the battery, alternator, etc to no avail. I'm thinking of trying another shop just in case. Anybody got any suggestions or help? Some advice would be well appreciated!

Mostly stock 2004 Type-S. 82k miles.
Mods:
Injen Mega Ram
Hondata Reflash#4
Hondata IMG
Pioneer AVIC-9310BT In-Dash DVD w/ stock Bose system
check the wiring for your stereo and make sure its not shorting :dontknow:
 

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Discussion Starter #3
check the wiring for your stereo and make sure its not shorting :dontknow:
Thanks for the reply. Yeah, that's going to be the next thing I try I suppose. It's just so weird how it happens simultaneously with applying the brake. It cuts before the brakes are actually even applied, i.e. when cruise control would be disengaged.
 

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well lets state the obvious, there is a short. It must be a heck of a short to be effecting the whole car...even enough to stop the engine.

Its weird that no fuse is being blown, so i would assume its NOT the brake light power. Firstly i would unscrew all the large grounding wires and clean them off. Then i would unplug the back lights and take her for a spin....see if the lights are causing a grounding issue.

To the second post. Why would you think that a stereo would have anything to do with this when we know applying brakes is directly related.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
well lets state the obvious, there is a short. It must be a heck of a short to be effecting the whole car...even enough to stop the engine.

Its weird that no fuse is being blown, so i would assume its NOT the brake light power. Your first post made it sound like when pushing the pedal down (not actually breaking) causes the care to short. NOW your second post says that it will short out anytime. True?
Sorry to confuse. But it definitely only happens when applying the brake/coming to a stop. I just wanted to emphasize that it seems to be the "switch" of applying the brake that causes the power loss and not the drain of the power brakes themselves. However, obviously, I could be wrong.

edit: Also, revving up a lot (4-6 good times) seems to temporarily alleviate the issue. Maybe I'm crazy, but it really seems this way. I'll have semi-long stretches (30min-1day) where it doesn't happen. Then later it will be back to on again off again, 60+% of the time I brake, it happens.
 

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Sorry to confuse. But it definitely only happens when applying the brake/coming to a stop. I just wanted to emphasize that it seems to be the "switch" of applying the brake that causes the power loss and not the drain of the power brakes themselves. However, obviously, I could be wrong.
Sorry, i quickly edited my post. I misread. you responded FAST! :)
 

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are there any conditions when this happeneds?

rain?
Snow?
Bumps?
Clutch?

Give is gas doesn't mean much. The alternator kicks in at higher RPMs, so that gives enough "juice" to override the short. Its still happening in the background. it does tell us that it might be battery related. Did they actually TEST the battery?
 

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well lets state the obvious, there is a short. It must be a heck of a short to be effecting the whole car...even enough to stop the engine.

Its weird that no fuse is being blown, so i would assume its NOT the brake light power. Firstly i would unscrew all the large grounding wires and clean them off. Then i would unplug the back lights and take her for a spin....see if the lights are causing a grounding issue.

To the second post. Why would you think that a stereo would have anything to do with this when we know applying brakes is directly related.
why not? why would you rule something out without checking it, he obviously doesn't have an ETM to see how all of the wiring is affected/grounded so pull the stereo and check the wiring since it's aftermarket.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
are there any conditions when this happeneds?

rain?
Snow?
Bumps?
Clutch?

Give is gas doesn't mean much. The alternator kicks in at higher RPMs, so that gives enough "juice" to override the short. Its still happening in the background. it does tell us that it might be battery related. Did they actually TEST the battery?
No specific conditions that I'm aware of. I'm also not sure if they actually tested the battery, however they usually do a great job and they said they tested everything. I'm thinking I'll bring it back now that it's happening more regularly and see what I get. Otherwise I suppose checking the aftermarket stereo wiring would be prudent. Especially since the stereo always seems to be the first thing to go.
 

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why not? why would you rule something out without checking it, he obviously doesn't have an ETM to see how all of the wiring is affected/grounded so pull the stereo and check the wiring since it's aftermarket.
agree about checking everything but i would assume that would be lower on the list considering it seems like a random device you named. Its like saying "check the power windows first"

eventually he should, but there should be a logical priority process when figuring out problems. Which im sure you agree with.
 

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No specific conditions that I'm aware of. I'm also not sure if they actually tested the battery, however they usually do a great job and they said they tested everything. I'm thinking I'll bring it back now that it's happening more regularly and see what I get. Otherwise I suppose checking the aftermarket stereo wiring would be prudent. Especially since the stereo always seems to be the first thing to go.
obviously something came loose recently... thats why id say check the grounding cables. I feel your pain, iv had an electrical issue with my car for months. Its been driving me crazy because it only happens when it rains (its not a serious issue unlike yours)
 

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I doubt very much that the problem is caused by the brake switch. You say that the problem happens 50% of the time. You should be able to park the car with the engine running and just activate the switch without touching the brakes or anything else. The switch should be able to stall the engine alone if it's the switch.

More likely you have an intermittently shorting battery or the cables to the battery are shorting. Closely inspect the hot cables between the alternator and battery. Move/wiggle them while the car runs and see if you can duplicate the problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I doubt very much that the problem is caused by the brake switch. You say that the problem happens 50% of the time. You should be able to park the car with the engine running and just activate the switch without touching the brakes or anything else. The switch should be able to stall the engine alone if it's the switch.

More likely you have an intermittently shorting battery or the cables to the battery are shorting. Closely inspect the hot cables between the alternator and battery. Move/wiggle them while the car runs and see if you can duplicate the problem.
Thanks for the advice, I'll go try this now. I'm a bit of a noob :eek: By wiggling the "hot cables between the alternator and the battery," are you referring to the cables connected to the positive battery terminal? Sorry, not very familiar with some of the technical stuff. Appreciate the help!
 

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Thanks for the advice, I'll go try this now. I'm a bit of a noob :eek: By wiggling the "hot cables between the alternator and the battery," are you referring to the cables connected to the positive battery terminal? Sorry, not very familiar with some of the technical stuff. Appreciate the help!
technically electrons flow from Negative (black/ground) to positive (red). Check the black cables first.
 

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Check/clean/etc.. the battery connections first.

Contrary to what coffeeman suggested, it doesn't need to be a big short to cause this.

I've had it happen, albeit in my old ass Accord, as well. I suspected something was up at the brake lights, but the end all fix was simply cleaning up and ensuring good connections at the battery.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Checked and cleaned the hell out of my battery terminals. I went and bought one of the cleaner tools at Autozone, worked like a charm. I didn't even need the chemicals, the abrasive did the trick as the terminals were not that corrosive.

Car seems to be driving much better now and I haven't had the problem yet. I'll report back after a few days to let y'all know if it's gone for sure. I dunno if it's a placebo or what, but my powerband seems to be smoother and overall drive better.

Thanks for the help everybody!! Managed to fix it myself (hopefully), and learn a little about proper battery care.
 

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Checked and cleaned the hell out of my battery terminals. I went and bought one of the cleaner tools at Autozone, worked like a charm. I didn't even need the chemicals, the abrasive did the trick as the terminals were not that corrosive.

Car seems to be driving much better now and I haven't had the problem yet. I'll report back after a few days to let y'all know if it's gone for sure. I dunno if it's a placebo or what, but my powerband seems to be smoother and overall drive better.

Thanks for the help everybody!! Managed to fix it myself (hopefully), and learn a little about proper battery care.
good to hear, use the 1 dollar pack of gel for the battery terminals to make sure this doesn't happen again
 
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