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· Vendor
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Copy from our website today:

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It is very important that the ground from the wiring harness to the engine (G101) makes good electrical contact with the cylinder head. Otherwise the return path for the sensors, ignition and VTEC may be through the ECU case to the vehicle body, which may damage the ECU and/or programmable board inside the ECU.



The recommended position for the engine ground is on the stud attached to the cylinder head. While the stock location on the intake manifold will usually work without problems, the stud on the cylinder head provides a better electrical connection.
 

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I fried mine yesterday.I'm sending it back tomorrow. I dont have that ground wire on my valve cover. What do I have to do? Does it have to be any specific way, where does the ground wire attach to from the cylinder head? Or can I just get some wire attach it at the cylinder head and intake manifold.
 

· ECU Tuner
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Hondata said:
While the stock location on the intake manifold will usually work without problems, the stud on the cylinder head provides a better electrical connection.
Is this especially advisable with the Hondata IMG installed, or does that not make a difference?
 

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Man....where was this three weeks ago when I was having problems.

On a serious note, I am very pleased with the customer service that I received from Matt at Hondata. He helped me pinpoint my problems, and they are replacing the K-Pro board free of charge on this exact problem for me.

:thumbsup: Hondata! You have made another customer for life.
 

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conradb212 said:
Is this especially advisable with the Hondata IMG installed, or does that not make a difference?
Seems to make sense, because the Hondata IMG will electrically isolate (well, mostly) the IM from the engine.
 

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Well. Since my ground strap was on the s/c manifold when I got dyno'ed by Doug. I don't see the difference it would make on the cylinder head. But, if Hondata and Doug in general think it's a good idea, then I will switch it out tomorrow night.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
We think that this may have been the cause of some of the problems people have been having with the programmable ECU. The common thing in all cases was an engine swap or supercharger. We'e also found that the bolt holding the ground wires on the supercharger manifold comes loose easily. We tested disconnecting the ground and then grounding the ECU and found enough current flowing through the case of the ECU to cause problems. The intake manifold gasket still gives a good ground through the manifold bolts, but the best place for the ground wires is the cylinder head, even if it looks ugly.
 

· ECU Tuner
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Hondata said:
We think that this may have been the cause of some of the problems people have been having with the programmable ECU. The common thing in all cases was an engine swap or supercharger. We'e also found that the bolt holding the ground wires on the supercharger manifold comes loose easily. We tested disconnecting the ground and then grounding the ECU and found enough current flowing through the case of the ECU to cause problems. The intake manifold gasket still gives a good ground through the manifold bolts, but the best place for the ground wires is the cylinder head, even if it looks ugly.
I did think the seven manifold bolts still provide good enough grounding even with the IMG, but better safe than sorry. Thanks, Hondata, for researching this and alerting us to this. Especially since the placement of the ground and its possible negative effects is a generic K-Series issue. One question though: you say this may have been the cause of problems with the programmable ECU. Does improper grounding affect a programmable ECU but not a stock ECU?
 

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I have the Hyperground system on my car. Ground points are as follows: Battery to factory ground, battery to transmission daisy chained to cylinder head, battery to S/C, cylinder head to passenger factory ground. Would I see any difference in doing this since the cylinder head is already grounded out to three locations and being inline with the battery from another ground point? I don't see any problems with this setup.
 

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Hondata said:
We think that this may have been the cause of some of the problems people have been having with the programmable ECU. The common thing in all cases was an engine swap or supercharger. We'e also found that the bolt holding the ground wires on the supercharger manifold comes loose easily. We tested disconnecting the ground and then grounding the ECU and found enough current flowing through the case of the ECU to cause problems. The intake manifold gasket still gives a good ground through the manifold bolts, but the best place for the ground wires is the cylinder head, even if it looks ugly.
This implies that the programmable ECU draws more current than the stock ECU...

Would it also be beneficial to improve grounding at the ECU itself, as in ground the case to the unibody somehow?
 

· Speedy
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how about grounding directly from the battery to an open pre-tapped hole in the side of the engine block?

i checked the engine to chassis ground and it's well grounded. what's the issue with factory grounding - using a multimeter, i don't see any issues with the stock grounding..... is this an issue as a result of modifications to the stock grounding?
 

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TheSilverBullet said:
how about grounding directly from the battery to an open pre-tapped hole in the side of the engine block?

i checked the engine to chassis ground and it's well grounded. what's the issue with factory grounding - using a multimeter, i don't see any issues with the stock grounding..... is this an issue as a result of modifications to the stock grounding?
The biggest issue comes for those that have the Hondata IMG, since it is plastic.
 
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