This implies that the programmable ECU draws more current than the stock ECU...Hondata said:We think that this may have been the cause of some of the problems people have been having with the programmable ECU. The common thing in all cases was an engine swap or supercharger. We'e also found that the bolt holding the ground wires on the supercharger manifold comes loose easily. We tested disconnecting the ground and then grounding the ECU and found enough current flowing through the case of the ECU to cause problems. The intake manifold gasket still gives a good ground through the manifold bolts, but the best place for the ground wires is the cylinder head, even if it looks ugly.
The biggest issue comes for those that have the Hondata IMG, since it is plastic.TheSilverBullet said:how about grounding directly from the battery to an open pre-tapped hole in the side of the engine block?
i checked the engine to chassis ground and it's well grounded. what's the issue with factory grounding - using a multimeter, i don't see any issues with the stock grounding..... is this an issue as a result of modifications to the stock grounding?
This is indeed the case; when playing with my K-Pro I forgot to attach this grounding point, and the ECU wouldn't provide fuel.Capbill said:I have seen a couple year old never disturbed grounding bolt on the engine block directly to the ECU, have corrosion under it such that the ECU controlled fuel pump relay would not activate & thus the engine cranked but would not run.
Personally I'd do it regardless, since it is a shorter path to chassis ground.Jaymeister said:Is the logic that with the Hondata gasket the original ground location is no longer effective because of the gasket material? Or should you do this regardless whether you have a stock gasket or Hondata gasket?