Yeah so have you considered pulling up that CEL? I feel like that's a better route to take than replacing random parts and hoping it will fix the problem.
Engine light on and buckles back and forth rsx type s
Hello there’s probably something on this but my rsx type s 06 has 172k miles it has a engine light. It buckles back and forth when I let off the gas and press throttle. Even if I’m on neutral and press on it a little it was go to 2k rpm and stay there until I press more then it will pass 2k rpm what can this be I changed my tps and my map sensor I need HELP
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Something new everyday. I don't know how you do it.Yeah so have you considered pulling up that CEL? I feel like that's a better route to take than replacing random parts and hoping it will fix the problem.
Alright, so what you're saying is that there's 3 things going on:Hello there’s probably something on this but my rsx type s 06 has 172k miles it has a engine light. It buckles back and forth when I let off the gas and press throttle. Even if I’m on neutral and press on it a little it was go to 2k rpm and stay there until I press more then it will pass 2k rpm what can this be I changed my tps and my map sensor I need HELP
1. There's a check engine light (CEL)
2. Your car bucks back and forth when in an off throttle condition, and then on tip in
3. Your RPM is sticking
Answer:
1. Figure out what the CEL is for. AutoZone and Advance Auto Parts usually let you borrow a scanner to read codes from your car, along with the freeze frame data that will tell you the conditions the code was triggered under.
2. The bucking back and forth can be a couple things.
- Check your motor mounts for wear. If they're the original ones, the rubber has degraded to the point where it isn't helping. When you step on the gas, the engine will buck back and forth.
- Drive system lash is part of what you're feeling probably. In any geared system there's a certain amount of lash, or play. Some components might need to be replaced.
- Check your tune if you have a tuned ECU map. Let your tuner know about the bucking and they can help compensate for it.
- Driver mod time. If you've explored the previous options and the car still bucks, you might just not be used to driving manual. The RSX has a particularly hard "buck" in my experience at lower speeds in first and second gear. I believe it's due to the weight of the flywheel combined with drivetrain lash and weight. Learning how to drive manual better will help.
- Cable routing. Make sure the cable is routed correctly through the engine bay and not pinched.
- It may help to use a little bit of oil to lubricate the throttle cable.
- Add a bit more slack at the throttle body. It may be too tight.
- Sometimes it sticks every once in a while when it's cold. Oiling can help here.
- Maybe if you are having IACV related issues it could be tied to it, but otherwise, check the other things I listed.
I'm not so sure dudes driving with a full tank? Crazy people think there ok.Hello there’s probably something on this but my rsx type s 06 has 172k miles it has a engine light. It buckles back and forth when I let off the gas and press throttle. Even if I’m on neutral and press on it a little it was go to 2k rpm and stay there until I press more then it will pass 2k rpm what can this be I changed my tps and my map sensor I need HELP
i checked my eninge mounts there new still and i changed the iacv and the tps because the cel code showed me this now i still have a engine light and when i scan the cel code it gives me iacv higher than expected. does anyone know what else it can be im running out of options.Alright, so what you're saying is that there's 3 things going on:
1. There's a check engine light (CEL)
2. Your car bucks back and forth when in an off throttle condition, and then on tip in
3. Your RPM is sticking
Answer:
1. Figure out what the CEL is for. AutoZone and Advance Auto Parts usually let you borrow a scanner to read codes from your car, along with the freeze frame data that will tell you the conditions the code was triggered under.
2. The bucking back and forth can be a couple things.
3. If your RPM is sticking, check these things:
- Check your motor mounts for wear. If they're the original ones, the rubber has degraded to the point where it isn't helping. When you step on the gas, the engine will buck back and forth.
- Drive system lash is part of what you're feeling probably. In any geared system there's a certain amount of lash, or play. Some components might need to be replaced.
- Check your tune if you have a tuned ECU map. Let your tuner know about the bucking and they can help compensate for it.
- Driver mod time. If you've explored the previous options and the car still bucks, you might just not be used to driving manual. The RSX has a particularly hard "buck" in my experience at lower speeds in first and second gear. I believe it's due to the weight of the flywheel combined with drivetrain lash and weight. Learning how to drive manual better will help.
- Cable routing. Make sure the cable is routed correctly through the engine bay and not pinched.
- It may help to use a little bit of oil to lubricate the throttle cable.
- Add a bit more slack at the throttle body. It may be too tight.
- Sometimes it sticks every once in a while when it's cold. Oiling can help here.
- Maybe if you are having IACV related issues it could be tied to it, but otherwise, check the other things I listed.
Ok, I don't know why. But you could have a vacume leak. Spary some carb fluid around it. It (the sensors and gaskets) could have been instaled out of wack? It could be that now that you've replaced a couple items so the idle needs to be turned down manualy. Since it's tripped a code I would be lie'n if I said I never got a brand new bad part. Did you reset the computer? It has a cuple new parts it might not recognize.i checked my eninge mounts there new still and i changed the iacv and the tps because the cel code showed me this now i still have a engine light and when i scan the cel code it gives me iacv higher than expected. does anyone know what else it can be im running out of options.
I had a similar issue where my car would start bucking and bogging while getting off the line and it wouldn't really go over like 2000 rpms and the problem was that a bit of oil got into the crank angle sensor plug and disrupted the connection.
We've had a couple of these come up lately, as to symptoms. What sux is a lot of things can cause this. Everybody that got it fixed please respond and don't just drive off into the sunset with the info....I had a similar issue
Did you have a engine light as well how did you find out that was the problem and did you clean it or bought a new one?I had a similar issue where my car would start bucking and bogging while getting off the line and it wouldn't really go over like 2000 rpms and the problem was that a bit of oil got into the crank angle sensor plug and disrupted the connection.
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